turbosubarubrat

Just pull the dash. It's not that hard. If you need a new wind shield i would pull that first since it makes the job quite a bit easier to get the top four 10mm bolts off. You will have to drop the column out which has two 12mm nuts under the dash and disconnect the steering joint in the engine bay. There will be one 12mm nut on either side of the dash by the A pillar. The four 10mm bolts can be accessed once you remove the black vent covers. Those are the only points holding the dash in. You will still have to disconnect the wiring connectors, take off a few grounds, remove the shifter console, radio console, disconnect the hvac cables and vac hose, and pull off the speedo cable from the cluster.

To clear the valve covers on that dohc ej20 your going to have to notch a significant amount of your unibody rails out. The ej22 and ej22T barely fit in a second gen like yours. I'm working on swapping a ej22T into my 82 glf which will fit without notching but I will have to pull the engine or jack it up to ever change the valve cover gaskets. I'm already living that life in my 2 door hathcback that's lifted 6" with a ej22.

http://www.roadoneseattle.com/01-july-2017-lincoln-north/ The green one originally came from New Orleans so it's probably a rust bucket

Brats are 4wd they never we sold as a 2wd in the US. You have to have at least a 4" lift to run a 2wd tank on a 4wd. A 81-84 4wd sedan, coupe, and wagon all share the same tank as 2nd gen brat. 80 was a weird year where they didn't have a fuel return line and the pump was in the engine bay.

This guy might I bought the wheels off him today didn't bother to look at the carb though. https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/pts/6188442385.html

Does the ea81 still have the exhaust recirculation spacers? If it does I would ditch those. The studs that go directly into the head without the spacers are the same as any ej engine. You can go in to the dealer and ask for exhaust studs for a 2017 sti, 00 forester, 93 Impreza, etc. it doesn't matter it's all the same. If your dealer sucks there's this http://m.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Exhaust-Y-Pipe-Upper-Stud-Nut-Kit-WRX-Impreza-All-EJ-FB-Motors-90-17-/201657272156?fits=Make%3ASubaru&epid=1484195666&hash=item2ef3b5c75c%3Ag%3AFKIAAOSwGtRXxjCE&_trkparms=pageci%253Ad669834e-58a0-11e7-8e43-74dbd18052af%257Cparentrq%253Ad8a58d5215c0aa18b13c12ecfffe716e%257Ciid%253A4

I tried to make it work but ended up making the booster leak since i hit it one to many times to make it fit. You will have to cut a section out of your strut tower and reshape that area. Dent some of the over hanging fire wall for the spare tire or cut a piece off. The clearance to the steering shaft was in feeler gauge territory. You also have to make a bracket section from the booster to the pedal.

I read your first post way wrong thinking it was on the under side of the engine. That is a case bolt that holds the 2 case halves together. That means it's leaking at the halves mating surface and sweeping into the bolt hole. Hopefully by you tightening it the problem will stay away.

It's the circular aluminum piece that the lock cylinder presses onto. I've done at least 10 of these.

Take the ignition key switch back out and pull the half circle piece off then put it back on after turning it 180 degrees.

My work could order you a set. Call superior subie and import in Milwaukee.

The motor mount bracket holes are blind so they have nothing to do with oil. Most likely oil traveling back onto it from the pan seal.

Those are drain plugs for draining the coolant out of the engine. They have crush washers on them so you could try to tighten it up some more, but most likely it's just your valve covers are leaking. A ea81 only has a cam in the block.

My OPparts axle held up 5 thousand miles a thousand of which had torn boots and it still didn't make any noises. Only reason i changed it was because of the torn boots. If it happens again i'm going to put on silicone boots or park it for a solid axle swap.

They should be shot just for stealing a mint turbo brat. Hope it's found soon and no damage was done.

Cut the legacy linkage shaft and extend it to the proper length. Take the drive shaft to 6 states in portland to have it lengthened. The lengthened spec can be found on here after some searching.

The Oriley axles are garbage get some "OPparts" brand axles.

He's on here too http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126559-retro-gl-10-turbo-build/

The hubs splines stripped out you will need to find another one. You should also replace the axle too since the splines will most likely be damaged.

Yes. You might need the hold down caps or can swap the whole rails. Some people say the red tops run slightly rich on a 90 ecm but my car ran perfect and passed DEQ.

Its a 4 speed scrap it and get a 5 speed.

My 86 ej22 swapped hatch has a 90 legacy harness with the 90 maf, 91 non blink code ecm, 99 ej25 red top injectors, runs great. I started out with a 90 ecm and grey tops but i had one go out so i swapped over to red tops off a 91(plastic injector nozzels). Ran great for quite awhile then the ecm said it needed a iac and ran on 3 cylinders at idle. I ended up replacing the ecm with the 91 after fooling around with the iac. Again ran great for quite awhile then a red top failed which i replaced with one ej25 red top(long stainless injector nozzel). Kept driving it like that until i put in a rebuilt ej22 and just used the ej25 red tops which are still going strong.

Replace the injectors with red top used ones or buy new ones. The early grey top injectors out of your car have a high failure rate.

Loctite will keep it on. You could replace the screw with a bolt to get some more torque on it.

It's all the same just slightly different from different wiring. I would just build a frankenmotor with 2.2 heads using a 95 or 96 obd2 setup.