turbosubarubrat

The bolt pattern for the rotor is different and they have a different size spline.

Since i looked at the brush guard again those brackets look like they're meant for a tow bar, so at some point this was probably towed behind a motor home. You could just put shackles in the bolt holes of those brackets or carry one in the car just in case.

I'm going to put one on my hatch now i just pulled all the ones off my parts cars. Now i just need to decided where i want to put it...

I'm going to the bnw meet at PIR this year hopefully in my lifted hatch once i replace my block. Since i pretty sure it's cracked because the guy i bought the donor from rallied the legacy and probably got it way to hot. I've tried everything else. Water pump works, took thermostat out, burped coolant for 20 minutes, rebuilt heads, and new head gaskets.... If not i'll take another 86 hatch or a 89 gl10 turbo awd touring wagon i picked up today.

I put a small chisel in the clamping space on the spindle and hit it in a couple times then the ball joint comes out easily without any special tools. If the control arm is rusted to the ball joint hit it apart with a pickle fork. I just replaced one that could be made in to a rattle since its so worn out. Also did tie rod ends since one popped out of the joint.

I bought the cars as non running parts cars and did know until i took the wheels off. They didn't have any problems with the wheels, lug nuts falling off or braking studs. One was a slammed 87 dl kept in rwd with no front axle and the piss probably ran out of it. The other was a 85 gl10 turbo that was ran so hard its compression was 30 psi in all cylinders, because they ran it on the dunes with a bunch of holes in the bottom of the air cleaner that doesn't get filtered so it sucked in sand from sand lake i'm guessing. They also ran it at 15-20 pounds of boost

Yes you can transfer the plates off your newer car and put them on the wagon. If you only have two cars i would run your newer car through deq first to get the pass slip to bring into dmv. I don't have any extra's besides a 32/32 needing parts and a 38/38 with jets for 2.6 motor. I haven't bought a adapter since i just make my own on a milling machine.

All the deq's i've gone to only put the tester in the pipe and look for a cat. Webers are legal in oregon. They start asking questions when you go through deq with a 4 cylinder toyota pickup thats lifted with a chevy 350 and no cats. My friend did that and it got red flagged. If worst comes to worst you can always transfer the plates off your other car onto it for $6 at DMV. The tags and registration goes with the plates so when ever the tags expire thats how long your good to go if your vehicle can't pass deq.

I've seen people use flat washers with the stock studs. I've bought 2 cars that some one did that to not knowing until taking off the wheels off when parting the cars out.

Can't remember if 1st gens have hill holder clutches or not, but another likely problems is the proportioning valve.

If it's only 50ft then just drive it or put the old wheel back on so you don't have to worry about messing up the tire

http://portland.craigslist.org/grg/cto/5034520280.html

The brush guard is factory but the mounts sticking away from the car aren't.

Took out the thermostat today and same problem. Before the engine would start building pressure in the coolant system then would release it when the thermostat would open, but with it out it starts bubbling worse and worse the warmer the engine got (hottest i've let it get is between the middle mark and the mark before hot). So the problem is still there for sure. I let it run for about 20 minutes and the problem was getting worse the longer it was ran. Maybe a crack expanding in the block? Pump definitely works since you can see water cycling through the top of the radiator. Bought a new water pump with lifetime warranty yesterday day for another ej22 i have unless i can't find ej25d block that needs head gaskets for cheap then i'll put it on that for good measure. Everyone i've talked to hasn't heard of anything like it. Heres a link to my facebook album until i have a chance to download everything to google https://www.facebook.com/forest.chatelain/media_set?set=a.402548506546960.1073741837.100003754435547&type=1&pnref=story.

My dad bought a 85 auto 2wd ea82 for my sister. It came with spfi and all the California bs emissions.

I really need to switch my pictures to google since facebook isn't working out for hosting. Any way... I pulled the engine and put on a set of heads i had redone with felpro head gaskets since they acted like they were blown(bubbles in radiator). Once that was done it ran okay with a bad tick coming from the drivers side rocker assembly. I even used the cams and rockers that were for the new heads and put it back together exacly the way it was. The other heads were a lot quieter with the originals. Then when it got up to temp and the thermostat kicked open the water would start shooting out the over flow with steam or if i had the cap open it would spit out every couple seconds. When i would shut it off it would shoot 5 feet with the cap off. I'm thinking somethings cracked in my block or i already have a bad head gasket.

Mines coming along slowly and will be on the road shortly. Ej22 swap is almost done i had to pull the motor and do head gaskets last weekend.

More time than money is right being in high school. I just build my own adapters out of steel at home or if i have time at school i could probably make one on a bigger mill. I've been thinking about buying a tig welder or a spool gun for my mig so i would be able to weld aluminum.

Get a used weber 32/36. I picked up 2 for $40 and only had to swap out some jets. Same thing with another set two for $180, one was brand new and the other was used. You can buy the jet kits from a auto parts store or ebay for around $60. I picked out one on ebay that had 17 different jets because i'm putting them on ea81's and ej22's and need the selection.

After 30 years the shocks and struts on these cars are pretty much shot since gravity and miles always take a roll in that.

The 87 and up rx's came with a 5 speed dual range awd trans with center diff lock. So did some gl-10s but from what i've seen they only came with a s/r. High end models also came with a 4eat instead of the 3eat which are supposed to be as good as the ones in legacys.

So it won't move in fwd? If you put it in 1st and leave it running will it die if you take your foot off the clutch? If it doesn't die have some one look to see if your hub stripped and your axle is spinning in it.

I did that mod but the carb ran like crap so I swapped to a weber and it ran cherry. I think the hitachi had a bad shaft play though.

The secondary is vacuum activated so replace the diaphragm with the one off your old carb.

As long as your tire doesn't loose air or goes flat your fine. If it does i would just put on a used rim since there pretty common.