turbosubarubrat

Factory manuals come in handy with some of this stuff and having cars that came with everything helps too find out where stuff goes. I remember seeing a link to a factory manual download on here maybe some has it and will chime in. There are a lot of test plugs on the harness to test voltage and resistant so there will be a few that don't go anywhere.

Over the last couple days I have put the interior pretty much back together(about 97%). Hopefully tomorrow I get the new oil pump gasket on and reseal the oil pan so it doesn't leak oil.

I put in the motor a couple weeks ago and it runs good plus it doesn't over heat or anything like that. It goes pretty good too with no problems. Until this weekend, it kept blowing the fuse for the coil. The problem would start after the motor had warmed up to about the half way mark and would blow the fuse while driving. Yesterday I found out that the carb was part of the problem since I learned harbor freight fuses are only good at showing where the short is at because the plastic all around fuse melted while the aluminum stayed in one damn piece. So I just unplugged the carb harness and problem gone I just need to put on another sensor or get a weber.

All factory ones are welded in. All of the brats I work on have had them cut out before i got them or they didn't come with them. When I put in the seats I just weld on tabs or make another frame to bolt in. While going through this trouble you could make it so a spare tire goes under the seats.

They only made one heating/cooling panel cover to save money. Brats do not have a rear defroster but wagons, hatchbacks, sedans, and coupes do. I put in the cover the other day in my wagon from one out of a brat which is the same exact piece you just have to push the plastic cover out and screw the switch in.

Did one of the relays go out under the dash? Did it blow the fuse for the fuel pump? Is it getting power through the fuse for the fuel pump? Does it have a ECM? If you don't fill like doing a lot of trouble shooting I would recommend hooking the fuel pump to a toggle switch direct to the battery with a inline fuse.

Its for the power mirror switch.

Then it was time for me to build a exhaust to put on cherry bomb was put on with flux core welder about 2 months ago and i bought a mig about a month ago to do the down pipe. Everything from the napa receipt on is from 2 weeks ago and last week end. picked up a set of turbo gaskets since it was leaking Followed the instructions on the box for heat treating the cat by heating up slowly for 5 minutes at idle then run 2 minutes at 2500rpm and shut off to let cool. I installed it right since on the driving test no radling from anywhere just a clunck of a axle i need to replace

Took some pics back in december before i sold her twin

Back when i put the f-250 fuel pump on Turbo plumbed to run oil and coolant a couple months ago water pump was leaking from weep hole and replaced it a couple months ago with a new one from knects plus some new hoses shows how long it sat (taken a couple months ago) Radiator was leaking and the plastic plug broke in half so i rethreaded for a bolt. Cut the bolt down, washed radiator out, and put the bolt on with pipe sealer so it can come off when i need it to. washed months ago

The guy who owned this lives in Sandy and traded his 86 rx sedan for it from a teen not knowing how to get it running. So a long story short on how it got impounded he got pulled over for a loud exhaust and he didn't have insurance on it. Hopefully he pays me back when he has a chance for the rear part of the drive line on this and a grill but that's another story. Hope you get this going again it ran really good and strong when it was at my house about a month and a half ago. This does have the LSD under it along with the dual range awd trans.

It's going to whine/howl in 4wd on pavement since the transmission and the rear differential are traveling at different speeds causing torque bind. Which will cause major damage to the transmission, rear differential, and will wear out your tires a lot faster.

I would have to get anther transmission if I did because I have a 4 speed d/r just sitting along with a new clutch kit and everything else to put it in.

If your talking about the rpm gauge the wagon i sold had the same problem in cold weather. Once the cab warmed up it would work fine since it heated up the gauge.

The transmission might need taken apart and some bonding rtv if the case is leaking, or if the tail is leaking i think there is a gasket, and if its leaking out the bottom where the transmission and motor meet its most likely the main seal on the motor. If it's the oil pan gasket on the motor just use rtv and clean up the sealing surfaces with a degreaser and forget the gasket.

some people have even done it to ea71's http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134819-ea71-with-turbo-and-harley-davidson-mikuni-carb/?hl=%2Bturbo+%2Bea71 My stock 83 turbo wagon and the one i sold just 1 upped you but you get a manual which would really bring the engine to life. I'm tempted just to put a 4 speed in my turbo wagon but if the transmission doesn't start shifting better its definetly going in.

Sadly this little guy threw a rod through the block so parked inside for now, but i plan on putting in another good block with rebuilt heads plus a full reseal. I'm still planning on repairing most the body and getting road legal again but its going to take awhile since i need to fix/sell my turbo wagon project which is really close to being done so i have some cash to put in more of my rigs. It makes it so you can find a gear easier while shifting instead of having a foot of slop when in 1st and attempt to find 2nd without grinding. You punch out 2 pins on the linkage to take it off the transmission once you have all the interior out for the shifter off and the shifting rod out. Then you can punch out the bushing and take the plastic out if its bad or leave it if its good and not rounded. If you replace the plastic you can use whatever you want its just a bushing all it needs to do is fit properly(plastic, rubber, aluminum, brass, ect). Once thats done drill out the linkage and the rod on the transmission with a drill bit and find the proper bolt and nut to hold it on so there is no slop and put it back together. I got it in Bend Oregon but it's originally from Idaho.

Looks like you where coming along good on this until it fliped. Sounds like you need a winch and something to mount it too. For a $150 you could pick up a winch or 2 that need cleaning and build something to put them on. I bought 2 Ramsey 5k winches for $40 at the junkyard that needed wired since a lot of it was missing, remotes, and one needed cleaned on the inside but other wise they work good and have working solenoids. They came in with a load of scrap so I snagged them while I had the chance because they sell for over a thousand new. I also bought a factory 2nd gen winch bumper for about for $50 roughly(I bought it with a motor, 3rd eye setup, exhaust, a set of wheels, and some other stuff for $175 but it needs bent back into shape) recently I bought a factory brush guard with winch mount for $100 from pooparu and awhile ago a custom rear bumper with reciever hitch plus d-rings for $40 at junkyard. So your doors for finding something cheap is endless if your not in a hurry.

If its from bend and it hasn't been ran on the dunes or beach it will have very little surface rust to none at all. Cars from that area can sit in a field for 30+ years and have no rust at all or very light surface rust. It might be worth it or it might not it really depends on how bad you want it. If it runs ok and drives fair its probably worth it but the body is rear hard to judge because of the camo paint job. If the body is in decent shape it would be worth it by its self in parts if it got parted on eBay you would be hoping for ok/fair shape at this price so dings/dents along with missing/broken parts. If its been wheeled and has a bunch of dents and needs a lot it wouldn't be worth it at all unless he talks down on the price to under $1000

Started looking at the motor I'm going to put in this today that came out of a brat I got for free. Seems to be good since it turns over fine with a ratchet with no play in the crank and no metal on metal grinding or hitting. Water pump looks like it was replaced before it got and before it was parked/parted since its a lot cleaner than everything else plus it has no play and spins fine. When I drained the oil it looked dirty but no milkshake so the head gaskets should be good. I took off the oil pan since it looked like it was baking oil when it was running so I figured I would clean the inside/outside plus put fresh rtv on to seal up the pan. The intake was bolted on by 4 bolts out of 6 so I took it off because some hoses also need replaced plus I bet the carb would need rebuilt too so I'm just putting on another intake with new gaskets, hoses, and a carb I have that has been rebuilt for awhile.

You could get the wiring harness for the engine and dash out of the xt along with fuel pump and ECM. Then splice the harness out of your spfi with the mpfi where need and put the fuel pump and ECM on so you can run this.

My 83 turbo wagon that i sold had factory cruise control along with all the bells and whistles(power steering, multi port fuel injection, ac, power windows, power mirrors, ect). In the 50 states other than California if the car was 4wd they didn't have a ECM but if the were 2wd they did.

Whole front end (radiator support, fenders, hood, and mabe more) looks like it has been replaced with one off a 80-82 since the fenders are wrong for a 84. The drivers side fender is setup for a antenna (its missing on the brat) which means its off 80-82 because brats were only setup like that in 81-82 and the passenger side doesn't have the hole which means its been replaced too. When I went over to Ashland and Medford I went to a junkyard last summer and saw a brat the same color as this with all the parts I mentioned gone plus all the other parts stripped off completely making it a rustless shell.

If it has a ECM that could do it. On a 83 turbo wagon i had it suddenly wouldn't run one day and it had no spark along with fuel pump not working right, so I replaced the coil plus cleaning conections thinking that was it. Turns out it was't so I put in a spair ECM before I looked for a distributor because they're hard to find for turbos from the module having 4 wires instead of 2. The ECM was the problem in my case for sure since spark retured and it fired right up after replacing it along with normal fuel pulsing.

I could take a look at it if you don't find out next time I head up to hood river. It could be the fuel pump, fans, sigoret lighter, radio, fog/offroad/driving lights, and some other stuff. Only way to figure it out is to turn it on and look for something that's on or find where the wiring is hooked up to.