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turbosubarubrat

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Everything posted by turbosubarubrat

  1. Bad motor about ready to come out Spare one in alt swap i used a transmission bolt and put more threads on plus cut off about a inch bracket made and alt put on Brush guard on This blew a head gasket today and is putting compression into the radiator so im thinking gasket kit and get heads resurfaced or drop in one of my other two spares until i have a little more money to throw at her.
  2. Put the 10 gauge extra wire on today and put a factory fuse link inline close to the battery until I get a 100amp fuse setup from the parts store or junkyard. I also put garbage bags on for the rear windows with duck tape until i get the rear window seals. I parked the 84 brat inside for now since it has electrical problems that need sorted out because the headlights cut out or don't even come on. Which sucks since I have to hold a flash light out the window along with my head so I can see while driving across are farm. I'm happy with the alt swap since it starts a whole lot better now and you can run everything without worrying about the alt being at 8v. She's definetly a lot happier now since you can start and drive her easily plus she shifts great. I kind of hit things right today first I finished up getting the hatch drivable then got to run around a little bit, after that I headed up to Vancouver with my parents and I bought a wagon hatch, front doors, almost new set of studded tires on wagon wheels, blower motor, cables, and shift knob for $50, then I went to pooparu's(Earl's) house to get the rear windows for $30 and got to take a look at all his cool gen 1 stuff to find out he had a gen 2 winch brush guard in great shape which I had to have for this for $100, then finally I went back home to sandy and bought a little welding art for $40.
  3. Got everything put back together and drove around some. It needs the clutch adjusted better, hill holder clutch adjusted, retimed, some vacuum related stuff worked out but over all its doing better since its running on 4 again with a lifter tick in #3 cylinder. After driving around some and shutting it off then trying to start again it wouldn't since the alternator wasn't chargering the battery so I saw this as a great time to put in a 93 Nissan maxima alternator which I got in today but had to make a bracket since the factory one was was way off.
  4. Did the swap today on my 86 hatchback with a ea81 and no ac. I got my alt. off a 93 maxima it must of been the dohc since all the connections were on the back and I had to make a bracket because the factory one was way off. I used part of a ea82 bracket and a piece of 1/4 inch scrap metal with a hole I drilled in it and i mig welded the two pieces together. Ran it for a little bit and I'm happy with it since it doesn't drop below 12v now compared to the old craptachi which wasn't even charging the battery so you would have to jump start it or put a charger on every time I wanted to start her up since I got it running again on 4 cylinder yesterday with a spare motor. I'm going to put on the extra wire from battery to alt. tomorrow with fuse to be on the safe side before I start running around with it.
  5. Pulled the motor today and got the other one in. Started right up with starting fluid on first to start. I only ran it a couple seconds since i haven't put on the y pipe and radiator yet because it was getting to dark to do a whole lot more.
  6. Yesterday i took out most of the bottom interior and threw away the 6 pieces of carpet held on by self drilling screws along with bad plastic pieces. I also finally replaced the speedo cable with a spare but when i stared driving it in 1st gear the speedometer turned all the way over past 85mph then when i stopped it went back to zero. After all of this there was a short that makes all the gauges go to max and the headlights flash on and off at night when i needed them plus the 4 way flashers turn on and off when their not on. Today i decided to work on the electrical problems so i took out a bunch of the hack job wiring. The cigarette lighter, fuel pump, cooling fans, and radio all were hooked up to the battery direct. I just took out all the hack wiring besides the the fuel pump wiring in the cab because i rerouted it so its a lot less noticeable. Other than that i rewired the radio to the battery and the blue ignition wire so it turns on to the key at acc. The fuel pump and radio wiring both were routed to the right side top of the engine bay so they came out of the cab at the rubber cover just after the cowl. This was done with inline fuses at the battery, butt connectors covered with heat shrink, and final product wrapped in electrical tape. The inline fuses were connected to the + going to the fuse link box from battery making 4 wires go together with butt connector and heat shrink which looks a heck of a lot better than what was there.
  7. The shell on this only has one ding on it so its very straight. Im willing to bet it hasn't even gone off road besides gravel; since the body is in such great shape considering it still has all 4 mud flaps. Extra parts come in handy especially when projects keep multiplying but you also have to keep getting parts cars to finish up projects. Also Earl i just sent you a text.
  8. Its just a clean aftermarket install, the console came out of 86 parts brat i got and i put it in this to make it look a little better in the cab since the radio was hung up by wire. I don't want to sell it because i'm going to get this back on the road eventually but i bet the blue spacer came out of a car or truck that is factory for mounting the radio because the brat also had seats that were out of a mazda coupe. If i find anything out i will let you know since a lot of people would use the mod too including me.
  9. Got this hatch on 8th of January for $250 non running missing the carb, distributor, coil, starter, rear windows, a lot of the interior, some ac components, and the radiator. My plans are to fix it and have it as a farm/off road rig thats street legal, so something like a 6 inch lift, 6 lug hubs, and some 15's just to start with. Last weekend i started working on it and got it running by putting on all the missing parts but its only running on 3 cylinders with 30psi in cylinder #1. Could be a crack in the head, hole in piston, cracked valve, bad seat, blown head gasket ect.(tried adjusting vavle clearance and it didn't help) Just going to put in a spare ea81 i have and get it going because why spend money when you have 2 known to be good motors to drop in. Ironically i got this in Lebanon and a spare motor i have is also from there so i might as well put it in since it has a new clutch. Another one is i bought a 84 brat on january 4th then sold my 83 turbo wagon on the 5th and bought this on the 8th.
  10. rednecked the radiator on so i can use it as my farm rig for now. decided to do the shifter mod since i had a foot of slop in every gear. just so the engine compartment stays dry. Huge upgrade since the lights didn't work before.
  11. Found this on craigslist on January 4 which was a friday while surfing all forsale/wanted and saw a estate sale add so clicked on it which stated he had a brat for $200 with no other information. This just made me have to call him to find out more about. He said it was 84 in rough shape and it was going to be his rig to run on his property until his nephew hit a tree. I asked him if it had a good tail gate that wasn't rusted or beat which he replied its in good shape but its covered in bumper stickers. I told him to hold it for me and i would come out the next day from Sandy all the way on the other side of Mt. Hood to tow dolly it home From Bend (about 240 miles round trip). When we left the passes where a little slick around 6 in the morning going over hood but was worth it. Even got it running the next day with a battery, new oil, new body ground wire, and starting fluid . Its last titled in Idaho which is where the guy i bought it from got it from his Vietnam war veteran cousin who did lots of interesting things to it like plywood trim. To kick it off this thing was driven from Idaho to bend 350 miles with with out plates and handkerchiefs for tail lights speedo cable broke at this
  12. Glad i could help. You can see the speedometer cable on the transmission on the left in the pic above wrapped around in the middle. This is the same transmission you have too. The end of the cable has a bolt shape to it so you use a wrench or a pair of vise grips to unscrew it, but first you need to pull the rest out from under the dash through the fire wall. The rear disk pads could be off anything with a ea82t (ea82 turbo/1800 turbo) 85-94 so gl-10, rx, loyale and possibly some xt or xt-6(not positive on those) some non-turbos had them but its just easier to say 88 gl-10 like the other poster said since they will find it easier at the parts storehttp://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3drear%2bpads%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26N%3d599001%2b101987%2b50068%2b2068009.
  13. Lol. Might as well be. It's johns subaru junkyard in gaston Oregon. I asked about the green brat pictured above 3 years ago and they said it wasn't for sale because John was going to restore it then I'm on portlands craigslist Tuesday and its on there parting out. My reaction was wtf! Why part out especially when I saw it in person it looked really straight and could be fixed very easily since he has all the parts to do. I heard his prices are better now from a few people but back then when I went and was being helped by a work hand they wanted $150 for a tail light and $60 for 1 piece of rear quarter panel trim! So I didn't even ask about a tail gate since its probably more than a door. I called him once on a ea81t distributor to get a price and they didn't know how much they wanted for it and never called me back. I think im sticking to my free to a couple hundred dollar subaru's I find(evil grin) for either parts cars or just to fix.
  14. http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=NCF1115013_0417784243 http://m.ebay.com/itm/291057878675?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1
  15. You mean lens. It needs the front and rear lenses for the drivers side/left side unless its missing the housing for the tail light. Craigslist, junkyards, here, and subaru dealerships are your friends for finding them. http://www.subarupartsamerica.com/parts/1984/Subaru/Standard/?siteid=216122&searchText=Lens new front lens on second result. Johns subaru junkyard in gaston Oregon should have both though and he ships but he's kind of pricy on some things 503-985-7110 or 503-936-9579.
  16. I've heard moister in the cap will make it not spark and reading how its only in the morning makes me think its a possibility.
  17. The code is for the ignition pulse system. Book says to check the number 18 terminal on the ECM plug with a multimeter. example of plug 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 If its connection is good on the plug and the ECM terminal is not bent/broken the ECM needs replaced. If the connection is bad repair harness.
  18. There was a guy on craigslist who had a gen 1 with the t-tops on it that whete welded in. I would think you would have to cut the roof without pillars so basicly just cut the piece out a couple inches around the t-tops so it looks like a rectangle. The space between the glass would probably be to long still so you would have to cut out a chunk to make it in proportion for a gen 1.
  19. You should check to see if the pump conections are corroded. Also while your down there put some wires direct to the battery to see if it stays on. If it does its good if not its bad. Next if its not the pump change both fuel filters if its a carb/ 1 if fuel injected check wiring and relays. If none of those change ECM if it has one. Also if it has a carb you can wire the pump direct to the battery and use a toggle switch if you don't want to mess around.
  20. 3.9 is the ratio printed on the plate on the diff cover covered in dirt and road grime.
  21. Sold her today for 2k but sad to so her gone. Hopefully the person who bought it keeps the thread going but if not i know she will enjoy it espcialy since its her first car.
  22. Since you in CA you should have a ECM bolted on to the steering rack under the dash. Is the ECS light blinking or stays on? You should be able to see it flash through the crack in between the dash and the cover by the pedals. If you can't find it take off the plastic cover 2 screws and its off. It only flashes when the ECS light stays on, 1 long blink =10 and 1 short blink =1 so add blinks together and there is a 1.5 second poss in between codes if there is more than one. If you don't have a book a can tell you what the code means.
  23. Go under and see if it has a drive line if it does its 4wd. I'm guessing it is because it has a push button for it on the shifter off a 85 and up dl or loyale.
  24. Going to bend tomorrow to get a 84 brat for $200 supposed to run and drive but needs radiator because the guys nephew hit a tree with it and its said to be rough but have a good tail gate. Not sure if its a parts car, a fix and sell, or the rig i would run around our farm with. This means I will of had a 83, 84, 85, and a 86 brat.
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