turbosubarubrat

I have a couple of them. I live in Sandy but work in Milwaukee.

The turbo engines i'm thinking of would kill the 4 speed d/r's instantly and the 5 speed d/r's fairly quickly if you got on it. Best option would be using a ej awd transmission. The built frankenmotors even kill the 5 speed d/r's if you get on them since they have triple the factory horsepower compared to a ea81. Your best option to retain at least a 5 speed d/r with a turbo would be a ej22t which is getting hard to find.

Dip stick and filler tube. http://www.ramengines.com/attachments/Image/EA81_pics/ea81115sb2.JPG

Ea81 is a 1800

It's a ea81. Look for a water pump for a 84 subaru brat.

He doesn't have time for the forums anymore from being to busy running his shop and life in general. He doesn't really work on old gens anymore he passes that off to my budy Matt or me. 80-84 manual trans and 80-82 auto trans heads had smaller intake valves. 83 up autos and 85 up manuals had hydraulic lifters with bigger intake valves which made slightly more power.

Do you want fwd, rwd, or awd? N/a or turbo? Lots of options to go off of once we get a idea of how you want it setup.

You can get polyurethane trailing arm bushings from superpro or whiteline.

Post a pic so we know what hose your talking about. There are only 3 hoses fuel supply, return, and fuel vapor.

I would go with a built frankenmotor or a turbo ej engine mounted to a toyota w-serries transmission using Bill Hincher's bellhousing adapter. If the rear diff becomes a problem you can always swap to a r180 or even a r200.

They are internally regulated. Regulator defiantly is bad. ea81 and ea82 alternators are the same so you can get a alternator off a 81-94.

I almost guarantee its the ecm. When they're this old its a really common problem. You could try to get someone to fix it, try to find another one, or go with a aftermarket ecu system like msd. I take it the car is still in Colorado not Portland, OR. If it is in portland i would be interested in it. Or you could bring it to the shop i work at. If you really want the car why don't you trailer it back using a uhaul truck and trailer? Shawn Watson has parted out a few of these ea81t turbo cars recently over at his shop in colorado. A couple other guys on here might have one but they are getting really hard to come by. Johns subaru junkyard in Gaston Oregon might have one too.

Let me know if you find a vented gas cap. I've been looking for one for my hatch with a ej22.

There is literally thousand of things you need to avoid. Like asbestos in brake shoes/pads and clutch linings which is still used today and is proven to cause cancer. Another is welding anywhere near where chlorinated brake clean has been applied.

It wont hurt anything if you remove it. It's emissions equipment that isn't needed. Some ea81's don't even have them they just have a space plate with no threads in it. I deleted them and the car pasted DEQ with 243 thousand on it burning oil.

Go to coilovers they can be fabricated into anything.

Not all of them did. People make reproduction decals if you want them and i heard the dealer still has 1 color left in stock.

I doubt the clutch has been replaced so i would pull the engine out and just reseal the whole thing since it has 34 year old gaskets. All the fluids should be changed to start off including the transaxle and rear diff. It has a carter weber intake so you will need to find a hitachi intake to be able to swap a weber 32/36 carburetor onto. The carter weber carbs suck and a stock hitachi is a upgrade if that means anything to you. I would -replace all the engine seals; the short block should be fine -reseal or replace the oil pump -put on a new water pump -replace thermostat -replace temp sensor and thermo switch -do the head gaskets (have the heads machined, valves ground, and new valve stem seals) -re-ring the pistons or if your up for it put in ea82 spfi pistons for a compression increase -replace all the hoses everywhere including fuel, water, and vacuum -drain the tank, replace filters, replace pump. (the pump most likely will die if it hasn't already from setting so long) -new cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires -the brake system will probably be rusty and shot after setting this long. If your lucky only the rear wheel cylinders will be bad. Great time to upgrade to rear disk brakes. -suspension bushings are bound to shot also so you should look into replacing them with super pro and white line bushings -shocks and struts will be shot and need to be replaced

Give johns subaru junkyard in Gaston Oregon a call.

Awhile back there was a guy in washington that sold his collection of 35 gen1 and gen2 brats

They don't make the xt6 stuff anymore just use the exedy 15008 kit. Otherwise you have to source new old stock to get the pressure plate which is pretty hard to do at this point. The xt6 pressure plates in the kits they make now are the same as a ea82.

They probably swapped to the winter blends of gas in Chicago.

iirr i used a ea82 manual steering rack 2 joint linkage. I clearanced out the joints so they wouldn't bind with a burr and had to drill a new slot on the steering shaft for the column. You could just go to pick n' pull and pull a couple of them off a legacy, loyale, gl, or impreza. To extend it you would cut one of those double joints apart then bolt the two pieces on. After that you would measure how big of a piece of rod or thick wall tubing you would need to weld in.

Any idea on cost? Patrick (ADF) made a locker proto type out of plastic and has everything ready for a company to make it. The only thing he was running into was the cost and lack of people ready to buy it since it would take like 100 people to make it cost effective.

Only run 1 rear axle on the road with a welded diff. If you don't eventually you will break a stub.