turbosubarubrat

My brat has the tan interior which looks good with the bright red my brat is. The hatch back I got my radiator support off of had a black interior including carpet but very dirty. I'm mad at my self for not getting the center arm rest in it, its not the high console for power windows it bolts on the transmission tunnel and sits a couple of inches above the parking brake console. The hatch back was the same color as my two turbo wagons which is the light sparkly blue which goes together fairly good with a black interior.

Wouldn't start on friday and the fuel pump wasn't turning on or it would once or go constantly. So i check the fuse links and relays which turned out not to be the problem. Then i checked the pump by hard wiring it to the battery and it was turning on then so i check the power going to the pump and it had a constant 12v which isn't right, so i check relays again which still wasn't the problem. Left me with 1 idea which was change the ecm and that was it , but it was only running on 3 cylinder when i started it and it wasn't getting better. This lead me to check which cylinder wasn't firing by unplugging spark plugs 1 by 1 while it was running to see which cylinder wasn't effected. It turned out to be #4 so i check for spark which it had so i took the injector off and the end of it was cracked so i took one off my other wagon then installed it. Now it's back to running great and good power.

His sedan seem somewhat reliable to me even with the ea82t in it. He was at my place yesterday and it runs really good with the 250k on it. The sedan is not a awd version so it doen't have diff lock but it has the 5 speed dual range transmission with a 3.7 lsd. I peronaly like the coupes over the sedans just because of looks. Parts are going to be hard to find for the coupe though i haven't seen one in the u-pull-it since i've been going but have seen 5 or 6 sedans and a ton of wagons.

Could be a weak coil i had one on one of my wagons that wouldn't start because it wasn't hot enough then i put on another one and it fired right up. You check compression? One of mine wouldn't start since the hydraulic lifters stiffened up but the adjustment were not screwed tight enough to get compression high enough to start. It only had like 60 psi in each cylinder when it needs to be 120-160 to run if you get 2 of your cylinder in that compression range it will fire and run just rough.

You will need the ball seat lug nuts if they're the peugeot aluminium rims not he cone lug nuts that you have shown because they carve out the rim when you put them on plus potentialy the wheels might come off down the road (has actually happened to some people on here). There is also the option of lug nut adaptors it cost about $16 for a set that converts from ball seat to cone seat. If they're the steel rims you can just use the ones you got and save some money. You could also get a set of 14 inch six lug rims and drill 2 more holes in each rim if you dont want to convert to 6 lug hubs.

There also is a cruise conrtrol switch exactly like the third eye switch shown above.I would say a Brat tail gate thats non-rusted or dented is extremely rare to find especialy forsale let alone on a brat.

Runs smooth now after i adjusted the valve clearance on the passenger side and adjusted the throttle cable. I'm ready to sell it now since its running, driving, and shifting great with good power and has no problems that effect its functionality. New/replaced parts: Has new ngk spark plug wires(can't find the right coil wire and have tried 3 different sets and none of them had all the right lengths for all the cylinders besides the ngk's so it needs 2 sets of wires to make a correct set because aparently they dont make a set for a ea81t anymore), has a new plugs ngk, new air filter, fuel pump off a f-250 made by bosch, alternator raplaced at one point since also bosch, coil, ea82t turbo charger, windshield, front bumper, rear bumper, tail lights, corner lights, ignition switch, new tags good till 2015, What i have done/good: I took the dash out and did a little wiring to fix what was fried from the digital dash fire, it was converted to analog turbo cluster and i set the odometer to 136k which is the best milage the previous owner could remember, I have done some body and interior work, Fixed heater so its nice and warm, rear defroster, AC works, power steering, power windows and all work, power mirrors even work, cruise control is all there but just needs the control unit plug pluged in and the cable needs put on the gas pedal and the vacume hose put on i sure it works but i didn't want to mess with it, rear cargo cover fully functional since i repaired it and is very rear (matter of fact the only one i've seen), transmission shifts great and push button 4wd works good too, motor runs good, low miles, clean title, new tags, 2nd owner, has good snow tires, orignal factory turbo tool kit, turbo owners manual, passed deq with no problems just went through way under standers, has been parked inside for most of its life, The problems: Has light surface rust on the rockers on the inside where the doors close, has some dents from previous owner backing into a post(dent on hatch/ the bottom rear quarter panel) and a few small dings, clock keeps reseting to 1:00, ASKING PRICE IS $2500 OBO and im starting a little high. I see the non-turbos for $400-about 2k all the time beat up and high miles needing lots of work or around 2k in fair shape. I will post in the forsale section and on craigslist soon. The snow is coming and this is the perfect car for some one or the subaru enthuesist 1 of a 1000 in the USA and only 1 of 4 sold in oregon.

You drill holes in the bed which is what people had to do when it was installed even at the dealer when they were new. I have 2 78's that have factory roll bars and they were drilled and bolted in.

If it has a ea71(not sure if yours is points or electric since it could be both) in it you can use a distributor out of a ea81 that is electric or one out of a ea82 but you would have to take the gear off the ea82 and drill a new hole to move the gear up. I have both a pionts and electric distributor out of ea71's if you dont have one yet.

look at my thread link below for pictures of where the roll bar mounts. Mine is from a 1st gen that was cut down to fit because the roll bars for brats are very hard to find no matter what generation. Your going to have to find a fabrication shop that does tubing work or find a roll bar for a small truck like a ford ranger and cut it down to fit. Also any second generation brat will have the same roll bar besides whether its the high or low style.

He was talking about the one i posted a picture of which will rust into the ground in a few years. If i had some extra money and didn't have 6 project cars i would pick up your brat. I hope it doesn't get scrapped since it looks fairly solid and straight compared to a lot of stuff i've seen that where left to rot or beat to hell.

Would that brat possibly be up in the Washington peninsula? If it is i pulled and bought parts off that. I got the windshield, door cards, wind crank handles, tail lights, and factory tow hitch for something like $50. When i went to open the doors on that thing i ripped them off because they rusted off. http://www.facebook.com/forest.chatelain/media_set?set=a.123157187819428.21470.100003754435547&type=3

Another loop hole for me is i live on a nursrey so i can get farm plates so no emissions .

It means you transfer the plates from one of your other cars or if you have a extra set of plates that have good tags onto your car that can't pass DEQ. The plates that have good tags on them have passed DEQ making a loop hole to where you don't have to go through emissions until the tags expire or you swap the plates again. This is how my brat got plates since it wouldn't pass DEQ for some reason no matter what i did even though it has 30k-40k on the motor and transmission i rebuilt the carb, did a tune up (cap, rotor, wires, plugs, fuel filters), adjusted the timing and throttle cable it got really close but wouldn't pass its either getting a weber or fuel injection swap..

In oregon you can swap plates for like 5 bucks at dmv and not have to go through emissions.

Last week it acted like it was going to start then only crancked did some testing and it turned out to be the coil which was orignal, but it started running a little ruff so im going to sart working on that.

She was running ok and i fixed the exaust leak, but im going to put on another cat. because it still leaked so i quess its rusted in the center that is a main reason why it sounds like crap. Im going to put the new one where it orignally was just below the turbo by the fire wall. I finally traced the coolant leak which turned out to be the weep hole for the water pump after taking off the alternator and pulling the ac condessor with bracket . Just got the new pump tonight so hopefully tommorrow i will get to drive out of the green house and wash all the dust off of her. The brakes need blead some more before that happens but luckily i didn't need to replace the master cylinder because it turned out just to be a clogged bleader valve on the drivers side rear . I have a cluster in thats non turbo and it idles about right but dies hope to solve that too.

http://www.dakota-truck.net/tirecalc/

195/65/14r's fit on my brat with rubbing on tight turns but if i crank up the suspension adajustment i dont think i would.

What im getting at is the ultimate ea82 would be simular to this http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122674-ea-82tt-engine-management-swap/ but a lot more custom and expensive. Essentially you would be building a ea engine into a ej engine which would cost about the same as a sti/wrx drive train swap much like Nicos plus it would be a lot more reliable. I have to admit it would be a really awesome build and i would subscribe to it but it would be unrealistic. There also would be the fact if you crack a custom head you have to make a new one since aluminum welds don't hold well especialy if the orignal casting failed but if you have a sti/wrx motor you can just buy a new one. I don't have a problem with the ea82 motors since there very reliable (my dad has had 7 of them non turbo) but the life expectancy of a motor like what im thinking would be short, so why mess with a motor that is perfectly happy lasting 350k + with out a rebuild if well maintained.

I can pick up a complete motor up for $150 at the u pull it i go to and if money was no aspect you wouldn't buy used injecters so thats about $400 or more for the new ones. It would need custom heads, monifold, pistons, engine control, cooling system, ect. it would eventually add up to a cost were you could buy a sti drive train to put under a 3rd gen and still not know if it will blow up a mile down the road.

The plastic pieces pop off kind of like the door card or side trim on a 2nd gen. If the parts that keep it secure break off its not a big deal just cut down the ones for the door card and jb weld or plastic weld them on. have pics here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129959-1979-subaru-brat-restoration/

If you did all of that there would be no point in haveing a ea82 or ea81 just throw in a ej22 or ej25 or franken motor and call it good. The injecters can cost more than a ej22 plus all the mods wouldn't be worth it cost wise compared to what a newer motor would offer. Considering it already has most of the stuff you want plus you can just use a lap top as the ecm to controll everything. Unless you run a car side ways or upside down a carb is fine plus on a subaru ea style motor you get more power out of a carb anyway over the weak single injector throttle body. Lots of people have ran there motors stock wheeling for years with stock carb or a weber and they dont complain much. If they do they just upgrade the engine for more power or fuel injection swap for better reliabilaty but a tuned carb is still good and is very reliable. I have to admit the ea81 and ea82 turbo motors have good power for how small they are because there multi port fuel injection (2 injecters in each head) with a throttle body. I wouldn't run one of the turbos off road though since it would crack the turbo for sure or blow a head gasket.

Depends on what condtion the body is in. If the body and the interior are in good shape and doesn't need a whole lot then yah its worth a thousand. How many miles are on it? I have found three 78 brats for my dad over 3 years and all together they costed $650. One was $200, the another was $100, and the last one was $350. All of them came with canopies, 2 came with role bars and brush guards, while the other came with a winch bumper. 2 of them needed new motors one sat outside with water in for 3 years and the other sat so long that the rings got stuck the other sat 15 years and started with new gas and a battery. It all comes down to how bad you want it, like it, and the price. I love brats and i like modifying them i personally would drop a ea81 and a 5 speed dual range 4wd in one with a weber carb. plus a couple inch lift to run 14 or 15 inch rims also so the 5 speed will fit without having to cut the transmission tunel up to fit.

Didn't know that, i thought they were in some the first second gens or something like, because alot of the first gens had the rear sliders like thit. What you said makes sense because most of the dl brats came with a solid rear window which would make people want to upgrade here in the US to a sliding rear window for better air flow since most dl's didn't come with T-tops either.