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turbosubarubrat

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Everything posted by turbosubarubrat

  1. Got her running but idling really high(im guessing like 4000rpm since i dont have a gauge cluster in at the moment), so im a tooth off or some thing on the timing. It turned out why it wasn't running is that it wasn't getting enough compression. It had 50-70psi in each cylinder, so i unpluged the spark plugs wires and started tightening and loosing the clearances on each cylinder until i had about 150psi just by going by what the compession tester said since the filler gauge has been screwing me over with this.
  2. P/B=Push button 4WD. It would be on the stick shift unless they relocated it some where else and it wouldn't have a 4wd lever since it only would have 4wd high. If its a 4 or 5 speed dual range it will have the 4wd lever which will have 4wd high and low. The best way to find out wheather its a 4 or 5 speed is to play with it to see if it goes into 5 or 6 different gears. Here is where the gears would be: 5 speed 1 3 5 2 4 R 4 speed 1 3 2 4 R
  3. Shes back together and all the hoses are right now i made a y connector to tap into the coolant inlet line for the heater core to go to the turbo. The hard line for the coolant inlet i cut off part of it and welded back on to point toward the drivers side of the engine bay. I also adjusted the valve clearance again since the engine still felt to tight. Replaced the fuel pump with one off a ford f-250. Just when i thought she was going to fire up the starter went caput on me even though its a napa reman with stickers still on it from the junkyard. I think a gear or something broke because the starter turns really freely both ways while the two spare manual transmission starters i have only trun one way plus i tested it and nothing. So another trip to the junk yard is in order for tomorrow.
  4. has to be a Coupe, sedan, or xt/xt-6 then.
  5. Looks like 3rd gen gl wagon is going to sit on it. Right? The 1st and 2nd gen's torsion bars don't mount like that and they don't have those bends.
  6. If i remember correctly there is a drain hole bolt if you still have gas. Then put a jack under the the rear differential because you have to unbolt two nuts holding the mustace bar on to lower it so the gas tank can come out also because you probably dont want it to just drop down hard on the axels. After that unbolt the gas tank from the car and its out.
  7. I think you can since i played around with some of my distribuators and all of them are the same length/gearing ea71 points/electonic , ea81, and ea81t(ea81t is different though since it has 4 wires instead of 2 like a nonturbo to control spark from the ecm and more expensive and harder to find when i looked there was only one that napa or carquest could get that was left in the country that would cost over $600). The ea82 works also if you put the bottom gear off the ea81 you got and drill a new whole but i forget if they make a ea82 distribuator with 2 wires or not since i haven't torn into a carbed one in a while.
  8. A ea81 windshield where they drive to you and put it in is $165 installed with the old gasket and with a new gasket is $185. I got one put in 2 weeks ago so i dont see how a ea82 windshield would cost $400 when there glue in if i remember right. I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it because it needs a body work and painted, tires, and some tlc on the inside too.
  9. It could be leaking from the windshield gasket, a rusted spot, through the cowel or roof pillar where the sealing has crack,fallen off, or got hard. The sealing comes in a tube like caulking and is almost like bondo to fill inbetween panels to act like a seam to keep water out which can be found at any autoparts store.
  10. Rear disk conversion 2 sets of rotors, 1 set of hubs, 2 sets of calipers, and 1 good set of backing plates.
  11. Heres some missing pics from a while ago if someone wants this i will sell it for $30obo only local pickup
  12. Passed DEQ yesterday and was way under the standards heres some pics. Decided to fix the rear cargo cover by putting on good end caps and rewinding it so it can go in and out with the spring tension instead of by hand. I modified the 3rd gen caps to fit onto a 2nd gen. The cap cracked so i used one of the broken ones for plastic weld to fix it. Plastic welded the rip back together after i sewed it to add strength.
  13. There different atleast the ones on the xt-6's are. You could try fixing the one you got with jb weld.
  14. You also could use velcrow strips to hold it up so it cant be seen when its up.
  15. Got a new windshield over a week ago and still had a good gasket so the chrome got to stay . I've fixxed a bunch of the problems with it like the room light, heating/cooling lights, golve box light, adjusted all the heating and cooling cables so it has heat, and the starting issues. Yesterday i went to Gresham Subaru to get a temperator sensor for the coolant since its not in the normal spot on the intake but inline on the way to the heater core. It had the parts counter stumped because he had never seen the temp. sensor mounted thay way before either especialy from the factory and he has been working there for something like 30 years. The wagon got all the salesman out there drooling over it saying "they have never seen a turbo wagon that old before and haven't seen a subaru that old in this good of shape". Today i replaced the temperature sensor, air cleaner filter(a mouse decided to make a nest), and oil with filter which helped alot because now it has more boost and power. I also added alot of fluid to the powersteering yesterday since it felt more like my brat(still easy to steer) and now it steers super easy at the wheel. Hopefully it gets to go through DEQ on tuesday or wednesday and passes. We took it through yesterday and it fauled on the CO with 2.4-2.6 when it needs to be 1 but was under on everything else. It should pass since the oil looked dirty which is probably whar part of the problem was plus the air cleaner.
  16. My 83 turbo wagon was doing the same thing clean up the fusible links and make the connecters tighter with a pair of pliers, also clean up the positve on the fuse link box that comes from the battery. another thing would be to clean or replace the battery clamps. I have replaced my fuel pumps by taking them off ford f-250's that are fuel injected with dual tanks and they work great the pumps are made by bosch too. You just have to do some hose work with adapters, use the subaru mounting, and put the subaru plug with the ford connecters. I actaualy did this less than a month ago and again today since i have two 83 turbo wagons. Or get a pump off something with a fuel pressure equal to or greater than 44.3 psi
  17. Depending on shape i have seen them sell between $50 to over a $150 dependong on how bad some one wants them.
  18. Correction it was the positive connection for the fuse link box not a ground(i dont know how i got that mixed up). It was very dark when i was working on it and was the last thing i did to it that night to the car.
  19. I took one out of a 78 brat just unbolt everything ataching it to the car plus the shifting/4wd linkage then lift it up with jack stands and pull it out going under either rocker panel
  20. The starting problem is gone now since i cleaned up the main ground for the fuse link box and bolted the box to the car since it was just hanging. It wasn't letting me start it in neutral before for what ever reason (probably a bad contact) but now it does.
  21. I must have one of the first ones made because it doesn't have one on the intake like my other wagon. It has a inline coolant sensor that is in the hose for the heater core right under the engine oil filler where it bends. The wiring is factory that has a bolt on gound and a single connector for the posive. I cleaned up the connections on it but it is still giving me the code to cange it and its been driven 20 miles today. I might get a picture of it tommorrow and hopefully i can find another one.
  22. My 84 factory manual say the carb part number is DCP306-24 if its orignally from california and if not its a DCP306-27.
  23. Checked fusible links they look ok but i made the connections tighter with a pair of pliers but the gound for the box looked bad so i cleaned it the best i could then bent it with a ice pick to make that connection better. Now the rpm gauge is acting normal and starts idling between 500-750 rpms after it warms up. Its throughing a code 24 so it needs a thermo sensor. Where is that at? There is a inline sensor in the coolant line by the transmssion on the drivers side going to the heater core and the other one is on the heat shield for the trubo/spare tire holder.
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