turbosubarubrat

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Did you remember to tighten the egr tube when you had the intake off?

We can work out a trade since i want some parts off that hatch your parting out.

Wrong section to post in. You will have to take out your ignition key switch by drilling out a little pin. The easiest way to do this is to pull the whole steering column and working on it on a bench. Instead of fixing yours with a new key switch you can swap in a another loyale steering column from a parts car or the junkyard.

I've been looking for a vented gas cap for mine. I haven't had a problem besides how the tank pressurizes and scares some people when they open it at the gas station.

I have a loose set of springs right now off a ea82t that had the air suspension removed so they are newer than most used ones. I have ea81t springs i want to keep but not sure what i would use them on. Also have a set that came off a actual rx coupe. You can bolt in a ea82 spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers, struts, ect for better brakes and a slightly beefer front end. The ea81 top hats will bolt to the ea82 struts or you can drill 2 holes in your strut tower. Or you can do variations since most parts just bolt together on these old gens.

I'll see how it holds up. It hasn't started to leak yet. Its mounted pretty sturdy, but i'll keep a dummy light sensor or plug in my tool box just in case it starts spewing bad so i can at least stop the leak to make it home. I tried putting a legacy non abs booster in it and had it fit in but it was leaking air. It leaked because i had to hit it in a few places for it to even fit. I also had to dent in the side of the strut tower and put a crease in the firewall/spare tire space which can be seen with primer on it right by the legacy proportioning valve. I would not recommend denting the booster and instead cut the strut tower then reweld it to fit the bigger booster. You might have to slot the booster holes on the firewall some so the booster clears the steering shaft. Mine was so close to the steering shaft i had to use a feeler gauge to make sure it wasn't rubbing. It was also right on the throttle cable. The legacy master cylinder helps even if you just swap it in like i did with the ea81 booster. I would go with the 1" master if you go that route. Maybe a ej18 impreza might have a smaller booster that would work and fit better? Here's some pics to give you a idea what your getting into.

keep us posted on whats in the lot you don't want with pics. I'll trade those ea81t parts we talked about and some other stuff. I'm interested in the coupe tail light/lights and possibly the sedan ones too.

Oil sender relocating since the old setup kept leaking. New setup hasn't leaked since i added a little teflon with some sealer on it to the sender threads.

Strut brace fabbed and tacked together Bed lined and installed

Geo metro overflow tank Shifter support broke off

Haven't updated in quite awhile...But she keeps getting better all the time Here are pics of when i made my air cleaner box for my snorkel Snorkel installed and new Mud Terrains Legacy 1" master cylinder and proportioning valve installed.

Yes. I did it then i swapped it out for a clsd since they are better off road than a vlsd. All the r160's are pretty much the same from the 70's into 2000's besides the stubs changing into a axle pop in style and different gear ratios. Even the datsun r160 is the same thing just has different stubs and gear ratios.

The ones out a rx were only 3.7. If you were extremely lucky you could of gotten a 3.9 lsd in a xt6 or put one in at dealer back in day or even ordered it from the factory. I don't see why the retained stubbs would matter since they would come with the diff you are buying. All the bolt in stubs i've seen are on open or welded diffs.

Its covered really well use google and type in subaru gl ej22 swap. Find a wrecked,rusty, or blown head gasket car to get all the parts off of is the cheapest way. Usually free to $500 for the whole car depending on the condition. If your not good with wiring you will have to send it to someone to get it stripped down.

Carb base gasket on the intake or a cracked plastic spacer. These intakes have a coolant port going up to the carb base to act as a float bowl heater. Maybe one of the small coolant hoses too.

If you get it i would be interest in the 2nd gen coupe tail lights and probably some other stuff once you got it sorted out.

There is a couple good spots if you want to setup a toggle switch panel or panels.The obvious is the 3 factory switch holes on the dash toward the bottom of the cluster panel. Depending on what radio console you have you can mount a piece of sheet or plate metal to it and have quite a few switches on it and still have a radio. If you have a high rise console out of a car with power windows you can mod it to have 5 switches. I need to find some small quality switches for mine when i actually wire up some things to it like kc's on my roof rack. If your interested in it i can take a pic of it in my hatch.

To get past that most people on here just remove the spring and needle.

I would swap that plug wire to another spot on the cap to see if the problem follows that plug wire. If it doesn't possibly high resistance on the cap on that one contact? Seems unlikely since you said it was new. My other thought was intermittent spark because of a going out ignition module or weak coil.

Keep on not believing it then http://www.ebay.com/itm/301812313553?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT. 3 actually good non pos toggle/push button switches will cost more than the $15. I would just put in the key switch and have the starter on a push button.

You can by a new ignition key switch for $15 off ebay.

You can buy a toyota bell housing adapter for $475 that mates ej engines to w series transmission. Then you can have a dual cases or one.

I bought a big sheet of felpro gasket maker at oriely's which is rated for gas and i used it to make a float bowl gasket for a weber.

Yeah just don't get a turbo block they're lower compression. You can get a mpfi block but have to swap on your heads for make a adapter plate for the throttle body. Carb and spfi are just bolt in if you didn't want to do the head gaskets.