Subaru Scott

Although... if there are those of us willing to swap EJs into older cars with stripped-down harnesses, is it really so preposterous to go the other way? If all the "newer, better, drive-by-wire, electronica extravaganza" in my Tribeca starts to go on my nerves, I WILL be swapping in an EG33 w/harness Personally, I think we are not far off from super-cheap standalone systems that can do whatever you want. Then we will all be laughing at what we went through in the before time!

I never thought about using that function to flash my lights, good point! I just thought it was for cleaning/replacement.

Sounds like you've had some good ones. I still miss my 82 wagon. Looks like you've got a real creampuff there now. Welcome to the forum!

Yup, 16 volts too high. Better check all your light bulbs too!

Well, you would know then. I never had one of them fancy newer Brats. I was just thinking the door would default to closed to keep the meeces out.

Are there any other wires going to the mystery box? Search out any non-stock wiring and focus on that!

Yes, it can be done. Change to a carburetor fuel pump. You will need to adapt the hose from the fuel tank to the pump, because it is much larger. You should get some small sleeves/collars for your rear crankshaft bolts because they are 10 mm instead off 11 mm to take up the slop in the flywheel if you have a manual transmission. If you have an automatic, I wouldn't worry about it. Other than that, everything else bolts up the same. You will need to do a little custom wiring adapting for the distributor, the temperature gauge, and oil pressure light. You will also need ignition power to the carburetor fuel valve and choke.

Get the numbers off the old bearings and any bearing house can match them. EDIT: never mind, just read the other thread, no numbers on them. I concur with idosubaru, take them to a machine shop. They can either mill a little out or add a sleeve to make them accept a standard bearing.

They tapped power for the driving lights off the ign coil?!? That would be the problem. Cut that loose from there and I bet it runs fine.

Awww man... I was just getting fired up for the hunt of something really crazy going on there Like I said, electrical is my favorite, and especially diagnosing problems. Just a lot harder to do without the car in front of you...

I thought it worked the other way, and the servo opened the fresh air door.

OK, if the fuse does not blow with the ign relay removed, it looks like something funny is going on with the ECU. Is the fusible link still good?

OK, I found a part of a basic schematic. The fuse that is blowing is number 11, a 15 amp? If so, disconnect the ignition coil and condenser and try it.

But the fuse does not blow with the ign relay removed, correct? Even with the key on?

740 ohms is definitely not a short. Are you sure you're on the right wire? It will be the one of the two large wires that do NOT show 12 volts. Could you put up, or send a link to your schematic?

...or find a good older body in Colorado or PNW.

I would say that the spring pulled the slave into an untraveled, dirty area, and it sucked air in the system. That it returned to normal after you took the spring off is super weird... did it leak fluid into the boot?

To be specific about your starting point, you'll be checking one of the two big wires at the ign relay. One should show battery voltage all the time, and the other will be your output, or load wire. You can even leave the meter connected there while you unplug components and sections of the harness. I just suggest the split-half technique because it narrows things down faster.

Yep, start right at the output of the ignition relay, you should find continuity to ground with very low resistance (ohms), like 10 or less. Then, start eliminating portions of the circuit and components by unplugging, till you show no continuity to ground, or continuity with high resistance as is normal when going through a load to ground instead of directly to ground. Start with some of the easy things known to short out on their own, fuel pump, ign coil. Then the ECU, not likely, but it could happen. Once you have eliminated the components from the circuit, you will then be looking for a place where the wiring has been damaged or rubbing against the body.

You're actually checking continuity to ground, not resistance in particular as a measurement. The ohmmeter is the preferred tool which shows resistance in a circuit or component. And when it shows super-low resistance to ground, on a power circuit, it means the wire, or component at the other end, is connecting to ground before it goes through the load of the component. If it shows high resistance, it means the circuit is going through the load as it should, and then to ground. There are conditions, of course, that can give you false readings sometimes, but this is how we start. You can use a test light too, as I said (my first tool of choice). If it glows really bright, you have low resistance/good continuity. If it's dim, you still have continuity, but higher resistance. The issue under the seat is pretty common with XTs, but the XT6 may be completely different. Water that leaks in from the side window, the cowl, the windshield, y'know, just sits in the floorboard and rots out the injector wire junctions where they split there. It's pretty well insulated there, so not much chance of a short to ground. Some of the injectors just lose power. But if someone has half-rump roast repaired them before, and removed most, or all of the insulation, that could be an issue.

I'm guessing the vacuum servo that operates the fresh air/recirc door has a rotted diaphragm after all these decades, and is leaking...

I left a good set of EA82 heads in the back seat of my car once when I went to the store. Halfway across the parking lot, I realized I had not locked my car. I hurried back but it was too late... someone had already thrown two more sets in with them...

I'm going to guess to maybe start with the fuel pump and the ign coil. Also, have you ever pulled out your passenger seat to address the rotted injector wire junctions under the carpet there?

You can check any component or section of wiring with an ohmmeter. With one lead of the meter grounded (double check that by testing to a known good ground source) and the other lead on the wire or terminal of the circuit you are testing. You'll be looking for really low resistance to ground, like 10 ohms or less. You can also do this somewhat more crudely with a test light, by clipping the normally grounded end to a power source, then probing with the tip. If it lights up really bright like it does when you touch it to ground, you have found the path to your short. You can do it even more crudely, if you have plenty of fuses, by just unplugging things till it stops blowing them... but I would advise the first two methods. Just keep unplugging and testing both sides where you unplug to narrow it down.

Really sorry about your wreck man. If you use a screwdriver, you can click the latch in the hatch to the closed position, and it will kill the lights. At least with the insurance money, you can afford a Legacy...