Subaru Scott

What GD said ^^. But if major engine work turns you off, Try to find an early/mid 90's Legacy with a 2.2. Getting rarer these days, but there should still be a few rust free ones up there in PNW, if you can find someone willing to part with one! Those engines are simply bulletproof, and will go 1/2 million miles or more with no major work at all. If you're proud of a Loyale, you'll love a Legacy.

...in a galaxy far, far away.

No small miracle that it shredded timing belt teeth and didn't bend valves. Thank your lucky stars and buy a lottery ticket!

Pretty sure NTN was, and still is the main axle manufacturer for most all Japanese automakers. I worked at a couple of Subaru/Nissan dealerships, and many of the the Nissan axle components I saw looked identical to Subaru. I realize that parts made by different manufacturers are purposely made different. But when one small manufacturer is supplying components to many automakers, most of the individual parts are the same. Mainly, in the case of axles, the cages, balls, and inner races, which spline to the halfshafts. So, it would make sense that a different length shaft out of another Japanese car would have the same splines as a Subaru of similar size. The outer CV cups will likely be different, as they have to mate to transmissions and hubs of different manufacturers.

Very likely the governor is stuck. I believe I ran into this problem once, a long time ago. Easy to pull out and check.

Trying to run the engine in the hopes that it will straighten out, or that you will find the problem that way, runs the risk of doing lots more damage. Bent valves are very likely to break off, destroying pistons, cylinder walls, etc!

If the hub itself is out, I fixed one like that by knocking out the wheel studs, truing it up in the brake lathe, then replaced the studs.

Do you have a compression tester? That is the next step. Bent valves will not throw codes.

I just ask because you really need to find out if you have bent valves before you go replacing seals etc. on heads you may be swapping out anyway ????

So, the valves weren't bent?

The Auto Zone/Advance Auto kit that was previously installed.

When you buy that clutch kit, that's what it comes with, you don't have a choice. So you have to install the sleeve whether it needs it or not.

When I did a quick Auto Zone check, I couldn't find an oversize bearing. I think it only comes with a complete kit. There's a great chance there's nothing wrong with the snout under that sleeve. I've only installed a couple of those, but I remember them not going on tight, just snug. But, like GD said, if they did use loctite on it... I wouldn't try heat because the aluminum will expand more than the stainless, and you're in danger of cooking the front seal. I would first try to get as big a bite as you can at the back with two "hook-end" prybars, and see if you can budge it. If not, I think I would slit it at the front, grab one side with some needle nose and start rolling, to tear and peel it off. If it's too tough for that, carefully slit it with a dremel. Try not to go all the way through.

Hubris... Whenever you have no idea what you're talking about, just toss out some ancient Greek and you'll get instant credibility. "Honey, have you got any extra hubris? I left all mine at work, and I'm sure I'll need some for the party tonight."

Mmmm, yeah... if you have a handful of timing belt teeth, FIRST thing to to is install the new belt temporarily to see if you have any bent valves. You'll just want to get everything back in time, don't force anything. Get the pistons off top dead center to move the cams into position. Then do a compression check before trying to start it.

"With mechanics charging too much on these jobs turning simple mechanical work into a religion" Really?!? Well, why don't you just grab your toolbox and show us all how lazy and overpaid we are? "Personally I would go for recycled parts off other Subarus" So, your advise is to install a used water pump... That's nothing short of brilliant! (sarcasm) That's one of the worst pieces of advice I've ever seen on a forum. You need to keep YOUR yap shut! You started this thread asking for advice because, obviously, you didn't trust what your mechanic told you. GD kindly gave you his VERY experienced opinion, and you have the audacity to call him elitist and arrogant?!??

I'm gonna say just put the PB'laster to it and start prying from the back.

Looks like exedy no longer makes that oversize TO bearing. I think I would just take the sleeve off.

I like to take the inner lower control arm bolt loose instead of fighting the ball joint. Sometimes they can be rusted in the bushing, so turn the bolt first, to break it loose from the bushing, then hold the nut to loosen. Do this with an impact gun if you have one. Then take out the small bolt connecting the lower arm to the sway bar, and you can easily swing the hub and lower arm out.

Looks like they may just make these for the front? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-CV-Axle-Shaft-fits-1985-1994-Subaru-XT-GL-GL-10-WORLDPARTS-CV-AXLES/132179013315 Reminds me though, some of the very first 4wd Soobs in the mid-70's had slip-yoke rear axles with conventional u-joints.

And: http://goworldparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Worldparts-CV-Axles_Quick-Specs_May-20151.pdf

I figure somewhere out there, there must be a spec chart for CV axles, where you could just look for the length you want, splines, etc. and get one for a Camry, or whatever. I think Japanese cars use most of the same components, and you could at least match up a center shaft and put your own ends on it. While googling that, I found this, VERY interesting!!: http://goworldparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Subaru-CV-axle-Brochure_EN_20150812-1.pdf

I thought it was eleventy-seven rotations

I enjoy the added convenience of the paint marks already provided on new belts. It's a nice double check, especially if you have one of those belt cover notches that doesn't quite line up. As long as you took care of everything that needed to be done when you replaced the belt, there's no need to go back in there for anything. I believe those marks last for at least 20k miles, so if something unexpected happens that requires removal again, and the marks are worn off, I'd just put on a new one anyway.

Pretty sure Sunrise importers is where I got mine from too. The Japanese tax laws are our friend