Subaru Scott

Sure, there's that. But c'mon, I bet I could get another 15-20k out of it

Yeah, you have to dremel out the “staking” to get the old ones out. I haven’t done it yet but that’s what I understand others have done. I’m going to try to use a hole saw without a pilot but, if I can find one just the right size. Mine are stiff after 500k. Tried drilling to get some grease in there, but the metal is just too hard.

Yeah, that's yer rag joint there above the u-joints. So, do you have a sedan, wagon, hatch or coupe?

Exactly!! That's why I always slather em up real good with anti-sieze, cause there's more danger in them getting stuck than they ever stop working! I've pulled out standard NGKs with at least 75k miles (and probably more) to find the center electrode worn to a point, and still hitting every lick!

You worry too much It's an EJ22. (period)

My rag top has a rag joint Stock 83 w/ps. The observation that the wheel can be crooked intermittently while going straight means the fault is in the mechanical connection, not the hydraulic valving. Has to be u-joint or rag joint, and I don't see a u-joint failing with that much play all of a sudden. Can't imagine a tooth shearing off the rack or pinion. And I would say if that were the case, there would be some binding going on as well. Rag joint. "When the rain stops"... You mean sometime in June?

Check the tank filler pipe.

Look up "toilet paper filters," been around a long time. Really only beneficial for big rigs with gallons of oil, but I have known some very, (ahem) "frugal" individuals who have installed them on cars and pickups.

Wow, good for her! She sounds like a keeper I just went through a 97 last year that I helped find for a friends son. Started seeing things that were needing attention from the age and not the mileage (this one only had 56k!). Rubber parts, seals, hoses, axle boots, and the boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends, even though they had virtually no wear. Of course, this was a Florida car, so, there's that.

Your link, and pasted text, (pardon me for not even looking at any of your links, but I don't need to read any blah, blah.) is either from someone describing a POSITIVE DISPLACEMENT pump system, or, from someone who has no idea what he's talking about. I'll vote for the latter, since that seems to be the most common. Also the additional comment about using more fuel going up hills, because on a return system, as I described before, it makes almost no difference. I don't believe any manufacturer has used positive displacement pumps for decades. So, the advice given in that link is gibberish as applied to a Subaru. There can be NO ill effects to a Subaru pump by ultra-filtering the fuel. I have proven that with real-world conditions over 17 years and 500k miles. Comparing this to oil is not even in the same realm of discussion. Of course, I would agree with you 100 percent that oil and filters need to be changed regularly... If I could buy a FACTORY Subaru fuel filter, would I change it? Probably not. I saw one cut open in my dealership training back in the 80s and it was quite substantial. I will trust it for as long as I own it, which will be a long time. If it ever gives me any problems, I will back-flush it. But then I will be giving up that extra filtration. I'm not sure what an aftermarket filter looks like inside. Don't really care. I would also like to apologize for the thread jack (don't get me started). I should start my own on Subaru fuel filters I guess. Along with in-line transmission filters (also recommended as a no-maintenance interval by Subaru for the same reasons)

Not sure why re-wording is making any difference to you. The pump can NEVER BE straining. It sees the same load under all conditions. Stop. Of course garbage is clinging to my filter, I'm counting on it! The more garbage, the finer particles it filters. Maybe I should have capped this before: AS LONG AS FLOW IS NOT AN ISSUE. Of course, an air filter is completely different, because flow IS an issue, just like an oil filter. We are not dealing with top fuel dragsters. A momentary drop in fuel pressure will cause no damage whatsoever, and will alert you that you have a problem. I do know the symptoms of fuel starvation. I had them once on my EJ22 swapped houseboat after I got a load of gunk from a marina gas pump. And it showed up while at idle, didn't make a difference if I was operating there, or at full throttle. The system runs in it's little circle at regulator pressure, that's all it cares about. And when it plugged up, the engine stopped, the fuel pump stopped, the pressure reversion knocked enough gunk off the filter to let me start it back up immediately, until the gunk plugged it shut again after a few minutes. When I got to a safe anchorage, I simply back-flushed the filter, and it's still on there to this day.

Yeah, I've always just used my trusty old brass drift on the inner race. But you can't be shy about hitting it. That sounds like it applies more even pressure. I'd really like to try the silicone boots too. What brand did you get? I imagine a world where CV boots last 20 years/200k miles...

I think you made a great buy Ravenwoods. A car like that with no rust is exactly what I would want my daughter driving! It will give her many, many, years of safe, super-dependable service.

Fuel pump "works" the same no matter what is going on. #1. It's not a positive displacement pump. It's an impeller type just like a water pump. If you completely block the output, it still spins the same rpm. #2. The system always runs the same pressure, which is dictated by the regulator on the fuel rail, and the excess is continually flowing back to the tank. Should the system fail to develop regulator pressure, for whatever reason, there would be immediate starvation symptoms, which I never have. #3. All late model Subarus now have the filter installed in the tank. Not meant to be serviceable, except at a pump change. #4. If I was overworking my pump, I seriously doubt it would have made it over 500k on the cheapest gas I can find. But I am getting a little nervous... where did I put that spare? The way I see it, a GOOD filter will only filter better, the more particles it accumulates, as long as flow doesn't become an issue. The FACTORY filters are the finest quality, stainless mesh, which do not deteriorate. When you buy a new filter from the dealer, you get an SOA filter, which is a re-branded whatever... just like the oil filters.

Hey Charlie, nice job! That's quite the y-pipe there, bet that little beast has a nice rumble! Love the wheels, and nice job on the centercaps. I need to fix up some like that.

Yes, pump is in the tank. I believe it makes a difference in the life of the pump if the tank is run a lot at lower levels, because the fuel keeps the pump cool. My 500k vehicle is still on the original pump, so I carry a spare ???? still on the original fuel filter too!

I bypassed my bypass pipe Just ran hose directly from water pump to heater core. Then again, my climate doesn't require the throttle body heat.

I don't know what cars are going for in Alaska, but wow... 2800 is pretty salty for a 22 year old car. That being said, if it's not rusty, that car would run another 200k easy, or more, with very little maintenance. The early 2.2s are bulletproof. I have one with over 500k that has never even had head gaskets.

Ideally, you should get all peripheral components out of an EA81 donor. But the transmission itself (you WILL want a 5-speed) may be better sourced from an EA82 since it will be a little newer and more common.

Do the procedure exactly as mkoch outlined in his post. 1 1/2 turns. But you must be sure you are on the compression stroke at top dead center. This is something you should probably have the designated valve adjustment tool with the thumbscrew knob in order to feel your zero point accurately. Fumbling around with pliers or a crescent wrench leaves too much time for the lifter to take up the slack before you can get another bite.

This time around I’ll do my best to post here too. It’s a great board and Shawn does a great job of running this , but the provider has made posting pics here more difficult. Face Dook is one easy way to get pics up to a dedicated audience. This is 100% true! Although I have found that it’s not too much trouble to post pics here from Flickr, it’s still a lengthy process. Honestly, I would post here more if pics were as easy as FB.

I'm sure you didn't bend a valve, so don't pull that head just yet. Go through your valve adjustment again and be sure you have it right. If it runs bad afterwards, do a compression test before going any further.

Motor oil is fine in gearboxes, motorcycles have done it forever. Just can't take the shearing of hypoid gears in a transaxle or differential.

Aaaand now their website is updated. $141 for the y-pipe. Out of stock.

Well, I returned the carb kit today. I asked them via email when the actual part I ordered would ship to me. Their response was: "Very sorry, but we are afraid we would send you the wrong part again, so we are refunding your money." Top. Notch. Hope they aren't expecting good feedback.