beamsbox

Hey all, my outback has spit out its third cam seal... not sure why. But I think it's beyond me, anyone know where I should take her? Anyone in Northern Colorado with a good reputation? Cheers!

As for the light, The ecm is flashing trouble codes, you can search the forum, but expect some with the Weber installed You lose dash light too?

EJ, meant that, been a while since I looked. Thx Bennie

New to Colorado (from WA), living in Loveland now. I have an 86 GL Hatch, registered in WA, but will need to be registered here soon. It has most of the emissions stuff removed and a Weber carb. I’m not sure my options, but I’d rather not lose this car. I think my best bet might be to just swap out the EA81 engine for a fuel injected EA82. Do you know of anyone in Northern CO who would be interested in taking on this kind of a job? Any tips/leads would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again, all! Love this community.

Is it gone?

The ND and the Hitachi are not even close to the same. I did however get a brand spanky new Hitachi, swapped the ICM to the old. No go. Then put it back in the new, no love there either. I figure it must be the coil, first thing I did when this all started was buy a new coil. Like a dumbass I tossed the old one. Now, that's pretty much the only thing that isn't original, tried a handful of ICMs.

@carfreak85 do you have the Hitachi disty? Cause I've been having issues with mine. Thinking it's the coil.

As the title says, looking for an OEM Hitachi coil. Anyone got one sitting around? I'm in the Seattle area. Thx all!

The only thing I could find are these by (A1) Cardone Hitachi: p/n 31-810 ND: p/n 31-812 I did get a Hitachi and it worked fine for two years. Make sure you have a Hitachi coil if you plan to use the Hitachi distributor, otherwise it can blow the little electronic ignition control module inside the distributor. (Not sure about this issue with the ND though. Update: never did update this thread... cause still have the same issue. I think the aftermarket coil is not compatible with my Hitachi coil whatsoever. Totally bought a new Hitachi, no love. Its gotta be that damn coil... works great with my old ND. Go figure.

Didn't know. I see the capacitor, I see no ceramic resistor. I believe the original ND is no points.

Coil is tested good. Carbon brush is in place.

...no can on that one... Original disty is a Nippon Denso.... Will get part numbers later.

Thanks for the input everyone. I really appreciate it. Is there anyone in the Seattle area who might wanna take a peak at this? I could bring by all the necessary tools, etc. I'm kind of at a loss with this thing, other than buy a third set of cap/rotor. Did that, spark is good from coil wire. (Though it isn't super strong looking, not sure normal on these, but its not blue, that's for sure.) I have two different caps and two different rotors, all are new. No combination of them will fire. @pksjeep: those are all good assumptions, did all that. Check: plugs and wires are all good. Checked connectivity from top to carbon button inside cap. Perhaps this is related (it)? When the cap is installed, I dont have direct connectivity from the top (coil input) of the cap to each of the four points. Should it literally touch each one along its path? Cause if so, I'd say this rotor is short for the cap (times two, apparently?) If I move the cap off center a bit, just slightly, and rotate the rotor until it touches one of the pins, I have connectivity from coil input across rotor to spark output. Thing is, it does that for both caps, both rotors. I haven't checked connectivity through the cap on the working distributor, so I'm not sure if they need to be actually touching (or just super duper close)... @jono: not sure what you mean here... but here's the side of the disty, tough to read...

Whats your oil pressure say?

Thx Bennie. The spark from the coil is when I turn it over. After I replaced the module, I started getting spark, telling me it was working too. Not so sure about that now though, perhaps the module isn't working 'correctly?' The reluctor (star) is in such that the pulse it generates while spinning (CCW) would ramp then drop out. Same as this: I know the problem lies in the distributor, as when I swap in the old one, it starts right up. Plus everything else is new...due to this problem... ;(