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beamsbox

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Everything posted by beamsbox

  1. beamsbox
    Its already been siliconed all over and still leaks, making it a bit less siliconeable...
  2. beamsbox
    Any options or ideas on how/where to get/make new/used weatherstripping for an 86 GL hatch windshield and rear window? Would like to get the inside of the car dry and make it a bit more liveable.
  3. beamsbox
    Not sure what this is... Or its purpose... Looks like i has a filter inside. Connecter to two vacuum lines? Maybe both are fresh air? Sits just to the rear drivers side of the intake manifold and engine. Off a 1986 GL Hatchback. Probably the same for Brats. Thanks! If you look close you can see that the two hoses connect to two different switches (?) on the intake manifold.
  4. beamsbox
    Great info. Thx.
  5. beamsbox
    Thx, Keith. I remember watching my own Subie 2002 Legacy cycling around there but wasn't sure the correct numbers. Thx.
  6. beamsbox
    Perfect thank you. As for the brother, he came home with a huge smile saying something along the lines of, 'so thats what it feels like to drive a car and not have to worry about the temperature gauge the whole time.' Lol. Hopefully it stays that way. And hopefully he replaces that rad cap. Cheers all. Thx again.
  7. beamsbox
    Quick question... after replacing fuel filters do you need to prime or bleed the lines in any way? And if so, how? Thx!
  8. beamsbox
    So, we drained the coolant and looked at the thermostat. It was some Napa special or sumpin, flushed, replaced with oem, refilled coolant, bled it for a while, etc. Right at about 175 degrees F the thermostat seemed to open and the flow def picked up through the system (via watching the bleed funnel). The lower hose def warmed up after that. So coolant flowing problem solved. No pressure: this one pretty sure the rad cap is indeed not holding pressure. Looked like there was guck, so i scraped it with my fingernail and it seems bumpy with a thin layer of neoprene or something that scrapes off, making it less believable that it will hold pressure, Told him to replace, but he has yet to. Fan: I noticed that the main fan wasn't on at 185degrees. Shoukdn't it? I wouldn't think it would wait for much higher than that. Both fans kick on with ac. Also found that with the ac running it held a steady 85 degrees, instead of creeping higher and higher like it used to. Thats a plus. I would still like to see that main fan kick in on its own though. Anyone know the exact temp the ecm will turn in the main fan(s)? Thanks to everyone for your input!
  9. beamsbox
    Ya, not sure what is in there. Was my first thought too.
  10. beamsbox
    So... My brother has a 98 Legacy, I believe its an EJ25. Bare with me, there is a lot of random symptoms/info here. Occasionally it overheats, so I looked at it. Its spitting out trouble codes P0480 and P0483, which are both fan related. Fans seem to work fine, while watching them. With my scanner, I watched the temp rise (the defrost was on), the fans (and ac compressor) would come on for about 30 sec then turn off. And the temp continued to rise. At 215F I turned off the defrost and the temp returned to 185F. What? Thermostat opened? Extra load eliminated? Weird thing is, when its running hot the coolant doesn't 'seem' to be flowing... Top radiator hose hot, low cold. I can open the radiator cap even when hot, which seems no pressure. I can put my finger in the coolant and its merely cool or lukewarm. Haven't drained to check thermostat, but he says it was replaced 'last time.' Radiator cep he hasn't replaced. So... (In order of my personal unprofessional opinion and economical preference)... Rad cap? Clogged radiator? Failed pump? Thermostat? Head gaskets... I have but didnt use a compression/head tester due to the apparent lack of coolant flow. But theres no bubbles in the coolant reservoir. I dont thinknot will tell me anything. All input appreciated. Thanks all.
  11. beamsbox
    Def is the pump, found it today. So, that is a normal sound? To test the condition, just do a flow test, I guess?
  12. beamsbox
    Boom. Fuel pump it is. Thx man. We'll see how it goes.
  13. beamsbox
    I don't know much about transmissions, had no idea they contained solenoids... I do know that it's def. not automatic, if that makes a difference. I'd say about 50 hz sounds about right. Also, this morning I was able to verify that the sound is def. happening while the engine is running... Fuel pump is inside the tank, I presume...? Thanks all.
  14. beamsbox
    1986 GL 1.8L 2 Door Hatchback - EA21 Car starts fine. When I turn the ignition switch to the 'Acc' position (Maybe 'on' it's dark out.) I'm hearing a steady clicking sound. I don't notice it when the engine is running, but the sound of the engine could mask it. I traced it for a bit and it seems to be coming from just behind center towards the rear of the vehicle, centered somewhere near the drive-line or so. Just curious as to what this could be, I'm assuming it's not supposed to be there, as the engine isn't even running (not to mention it's a clicking sound). I'm not even sure of anything electrical in that area. Are there relays under the rear seats somewhere? Thanks for any help, prior.
  15. beamsbox
    By the way something that may have been missed: while burping and with the radiator cap off, if i rev the engine to like 3000 rpm +, the lower hose will collapse... Seems like the pump works, but coolant is restricted...
  16. beamsbox
    So, as to the shadiness of the guy who I bought it from... I took the car to a local Subaru guy who works on them out of his house yesterday. HE RECOGNIZED THE CAR! Haha! He said his buddy moved to town and bought the car two years ago and brought it over to him to check it out. He looked inside the hood and told him to take it back right away! Haha! So ya, I guess the guy was as shady as I had anticipated. So basically the car's been pieced together... perhaps salvaged from an auction, quick head gasket job, new radiator, and sold... to my lucky butt. The guy said that, since it's not really worth much, putting into it the cost of a head gasket job is kinda dumb. To get some cheap use out of it I could try the BlueDevil Head Gasket Sealant... So, I drained it, flushed it and added the BlueDevil crap (I know..), I even cored out the old thermostat and installed it with basically just the gasket so that coolant would flow easily... And... No love! Still idles like a charm, and overheats with any attempt to put it under load... Hmmm.... any new ideas? Is it normal for the fans to kick off when you open the throttle a bit? Seemed oddly backward to me earlier when I was burping it.
  17. beamsbox
    Ya... Thinking not the radiator. Does seem really hot tho, then again not moving really fast. Never gone that deep into a Suby. Closest I've been is to replace the valve cover gaskets. Manual says you need a ST Blah blah tool to remove the cam sprocket in order to get the toming belt cover off... Besides a torque wrench, any particular (special) tools I might need to replace the water pump, or even delve into the heads myself?
  18. beamsbox
    Olnick, thanks I might check em out. Looks like no love this afternoon. Got hot about the same spot. Less than ten minutes up the hill... :-/
  19. beamsbox
    Ya, the radiator, on the inside of the condenser. The flow seemed alright, to tell you the truth. Can't wait to get home and tip it off and take it for a spin. Having a used auto guy check his inventory for a radiator, just in case.
  20. beamsbox
    Gary, I'm from Alaska, so it's definitely not a mountain... perhaps the foothills would be a better term, lol. up on Tantalus, nice lookouts over Honolulu, where the house prices jump from 600k to 4 mil. Phew! As for the radiator, I just felt both sides a bit. My wrist noticed that with the AC on, the high side of the AC system passes by the right side of the radiator. Hot! So, I turned off the AC, let it cool down a bit, and felt it again. As it was reheating, the driver side (at least where I could reach with my fingers) was much hotter. Using my calibrated fingertips, I noted that the passenger side took a few seconds to burn, whereas the driver side burnt me real quick! Haha! So, I guess that's the method, at least in my case. As for Kava, nope. The neighbor who made that stuff and sold it to me for cheap just moved back to Micronesia. Not like I drank it much though, that stuff wears out my stomach lining or something... John, I'm hoping that's the case... well, kind of. I noticed that there's some silver-metallic particles which seem to be immersed in a thick gray substance (It's built up on the reservoir cap), and after I put coolant in, I noticed the particles floating around in the coolant, tiny little guys. It did cross my mind that these could be what stop-leak might contain. Do you know if there's anything like that? I'd say the reservoir cap has something that looks kinda like a watered down copper anti-seize,,, but the particles are silver instead, suggesting that they're not corrosion from inside the radiator itself... hmmm... As for the problem (and before I forget): This evening, I drained out all the coolant and removed the thermostat (dipped it in boiling water to test it out - good). I used the neighbors hose to flush out the heater core, the engine, and the radiator. With the radiator I flushed it from the radiator cap, the upper hose port, the lower hose port, and from the drain valve... Note: (because others here in Hawaii have told me just to remove the thermostat) this Subaru drains quickly out the thermostat housing when no gasket is in place. I replaced everything but the thermostat and ran it (adding water every 30 sec or so) for about 5 minutes. Then I drained it all back out (dark by now at 8 PM) and filled it per the manual. (Slowly!) Can't say if any of that helped... cause its cooling down now, will update tomorrow after I top it off. One thing I did notice though after all this (I've been touching and feeling and smelling and listening to this thing all week): Before flushing everything, the upper hose AND the lower hose were quite stiff (when pushed or squeezed), but after the flush, and after letting it heat up, the upper hose is about the same stiffness as before while the lower hose is quite noticeably softer to squeeze, and a bit cooler. Not sure if that's a thermostat opening now whereas it wasn't before, a proper fill with no air bubbles, or a radiator causing less restriction to the system... but I'm gonna be optimistic on this one (I tend to be naiively optimistic at times.). Tomorrow I'll top it off and let you know. Thanks again for all the input.
  21. beamsbox
    My scanner says no codes to display. Is it normal for the driver side of the radiator to be much hotter than the driver side? Just drove it up 'the hill.' Got hot. Pulled over and let it cool a bit. Noticed the temperature assymetry. Started it and let it idle. One side is much hotter than the other.
  22. beamsbox
    I'd say yes, when the temperature is above say 80 (which is all/everyday right now) it doesn't overheat. After the first time it overheated, I made it over the pass multiple times with no issue, at night perhaps 9 or so. Wonder how much a flow test would be. Do you know if they remove the radiator for the test? Cause if so, I'd rather do that part myself and just take it to them, lol. thanks Gary.
  23. beamsbox
    Oh ya, first time I noticed it overheat, the AC was on full blast, then went hot. Like heater hot. Worked fine after it cooled down and ever since...
  24. beamsbox
    thanks GrossGary, No bubbles in the overflow tank. No milky oil. Symptoms don't seem random at all. It'll overheat under load, but not at idle. I could probably drive around all day in town. Hills get me. At about the same point every time. As for water in the radiator being a norm here, everyone says just take out the thermostat... that's their fix, I guess. But I did replace the water with 5050... Do I need to pull the radiator to see the flow? Maybe I could just check it in place? But even then, I don't have a good one to compare it to. I've read somewhere that like 13-18 (?) gal. per minute could be considered normal. Which is really fast in my opinion... so if it's a bit sluggish that could be the cause... And yup, everything is more expensive here, lol. Everything. ;( Should both radiator hoses be Hot HOT? As it's running hot? I'd think there'd be a difference. But my fingers can't really tell.
  25. beamsbox
    First, not a mechanic. Cars baffle and intimidate me, but I'd rather learn something than pay lots of money for someone else to do it... perhaps not a good thing... Looked (researched?) all over the internet. Finally decided to start my own post... Overheating issues - seems to happen mostly when going uphill, but it's been hot lately and has also overheated after a few minutes on the road. Just started maybe a week ago, and progressed quite quickly. Not it'll do it every time. 150k miles (No idea as to the history of the car, but I'm sure the guy who sold it to me was kinda shady, after multiple issues (electrical), I noted that the CEL light should be on... when I looked closer there was some black electrical tape covering the damn thing! Yikes!) T-Stat - Replaced thermostat w OEM from the dealer Radiator Cap - Replaced Radiator Cap with a Cheap-O, but as coolant seems to rise and fall in reservoir, I don't think this would be the issue. Head Gasket - Used a NAPA block test kit, seems okay (liquid stayed blue). No visual signs of leaking head gasket under the engine, that I can tell. Air - I think I've bled the air out properly after t-stat replacement, well enough, I hope. Water Pump - Not sure, I think it's working. If I run it without the radiator cap on, the coolant level rises until the fans cool it back down. The temp seems to cycle normally, if I rev it up to about 2000+ rpm, the lower hose collapses... I'd assume the pump is causing this to vacuum... both upper and lower hose are tight with the cap installed. At idle, fans turn on at 203 F (read live via ECM), cool to about 190 F, and then cycle as such. This will continue if I hold it at about 2500 rpm as well. If I hold it at 3700 (high, I know, well, I think... sounds high), she'll overheat. I hit the red mark at about 235 F... so I stopped at about 225 F Coolant seems to pulsate up and down, as far as flow goes, can't really see it moving in this radiator design... I'm thinking the radiator possibly? Is there something I can do at home that will verify a clogged radiator? Oh ya, just to note, there was only water in it before I replaced the thermo. Thanks for any tips you might have, and for your time as well.
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