mikaleda
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Posts posted by mikaleda
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Just a little update on this thread.
I ran across a problem on the Facebook side of the USMB.
Short story the ecu in their 94 legacy was bad and causing a no start. I sent them a 1990 legacy ecu and the car would start, but would not run right. In short we found that the redtop injectors are slightly bigger and require slightly different flow rates than the gray, black tops.
So to run redtops and get the best out of them you should swap to a plastic MAF sensor and ecu out of a 92-94 legacy that originally had redtop injectors.
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That's cool, I'd love to have a small teardrop to tow behind my subaru.
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My mom's old ej22 in her 1990 legacy auto sedan made it to 320k before it blew a head gasket, she owned it from 170k and had it for 14 years.
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Update on my dewalt 20v max high impact gun. Still going g strong batteries still working perfectly. I had to pull and service the impact head (needed greasing) super simple and it's working as good as ever. I have yet to have it fail me, I'm quite impressed so far.
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I just thought I would throw in an update.
I just bought a gray pneumatic 3/8ths inch duo socket set with ratchet. I am seriously impressed, these are some of the nicest impact sockets I've seen and the 72 tooth count ratchet is a quite nice.
Also my dewalt 1/2" impact is still going strong and has yet to let me down, I just recently had to pull the impact head and service it, that was quite easy.
Another good cheap tool that I ran across recently is my 3 ton power zone Aluminum jack, it weighs in at 60 lbs and is quite sturdy and it was $150 on eBay.
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Probably one of the most common problems that causes misfires is plugs and wires.
I've never seen a coolant temp sensor fail on a subaru, not saying it can't happen but its very unlikely.
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I just got my order of Subaru part #14165AA021. Looks like the part I need, thanks for the help.
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14165AA021
MSRP is $53.82, it's in stock in every Subaru warehouse in the country, which means that any dealership should be able to have it in a couple days.
FYI, the one that goes back past the exhaust has nothing to do with the oil cooler, it's the return line from the heater core.
Wow the way they have that routed I couldn't tell. I tried looking through the entire engine cooling section and couldn't find it anywhere. Thank you, that's the part for sure.
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Great, nobody not even the wrecking yards list this part either.
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So I've got a customer with an 05 ll bean outback and one of their oil cooler lines is rusting out.
The Subaru dealer doesn't carry the pipe I need only the one on the front of the engine.
The pipe I need runs by the exhaust up the back of the block into unknown territory.
Its on the verge of failing and I'm not sure what to do, I really don't want a pull and save part because of how badly corodded this one is already.
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I've had several of these first gen legacy's into 300k+ miles. I've never had to mess with the hing pins and I live on a nasty dirt road.
Replacement of the door hinge may be your best bet. They unblot from the door and the body.
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Well Subaru like most other car company's design engines that when ran out of oil destroys the lower end.
I'd say if you ask yourself this question you should take it to a shop. You will need another engine.
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That's probably one of the most common overheating issues with Subaru's that I've seen on the forums aside from headgaskets. I have tried many different tricks to fill the cooling system on a Subaru. What I've found is it takes patience,there is no quick easy way to fill a Subaru's cooling system. I will generally let them sit for a night and recheck the fluid before sending them out as well.
Glad you found your problem and shared your experience with us.
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Well I decided not to swap the auto in when I swapped the front hubs off of the other car and realized how bad my bearings were. My milage shot back up to 27-28 mpg from 25 and my low end power is back as well as the chatter I though was from the clutch is now gone.
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Nice, I've been wondering how I was going to fix this problem on my car. I haven't had cruise for about a year now.
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Did you use the intake off the MT car? When swapping engines its usually best to keep the matching intake to your car since there are a lot of subtle differences through the years of Subaru's.
Was the mt car a 90 by aany chance? The 90 MTS use a different IACV
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Well air is getting into your system somewhere. If for a fact you do have the system burped properly (which it sounds like you do) and there is no leaks in your cooling system, the only other way for air to make it into the system would be headgaskets how ever unlikely that sounds.
The block tester kits can be unreliable on Subaru's for whatever reason, so I wouldn't rule the head gaskets out just because its not detecting a leak.
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ive got a customer that is wanting a good reliable caar and had bad luck with a forieghn import engine so they bought a brand new short block straight from subaru.
im being paid to assemble and install the motor. I had them order subaru genuine headgskets, cam seals, and oil pump, ngk pugs and wire, felpro valve cover gasket set, fuel filter ect.
it just had a gates timing belt kit put on it with a new ntn tensioner, and subaru high flow water pump and a subaru thermostat.
what i would like to know is what is the install prcedure for a new short block? do i need to use any special kind of oil for a break in period? is there a break in period oil change interval?
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update
forieghn engine service repaced the motor, this motor was in much better shape and had "egr driled & tapped" on the tag.
but my customer decided they wernt going to chance the same problem and ordered a brand spanking new short block from subaru. so we are sending the heads in off the new warrentied motor for resurfacing and putting them on the new shortblock.
they also bought a new subaru oil pump headgaskets and cam seals.
the short block didnt come with any special instructions for install other than to use the provide lifting point.
anyone know the proceure for break in of a new shortblock?
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Something else I just thought about, the 90 MT has a different IACV than the autos do. Can I Plug and play the auto intake without swapping the wiring harness under the drivers fender? I mean I guess it wouldnt be all that hard to swap that harness as well since I will be swapping fenders and dash and doors anyway.
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Well what I'm planning on doing is parking the two cars together and pretty much swapping everything onto my frame anyway so time consuming doesn't bother me.
By the time on done I'll have a new car damn near.
Oh ya, while pulling some of the interior I found the original sales receipt.
It was sold in Dec. 1989 (same as mine) for $15,999 out of levinworth WA. With 138 mi on the odo.
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That could indicate an air pocket. That can be caused by a slow leak in the system or the headgaskets leaking.one thing I would do is shift to neutral for about 8 seconds on a downgrade, and that would drop the needle on the temp gauge about 3 lines, then I went back into drive, so would this tell me the radiator is ok?
When its off and cold check your radiator fluid level and make sure its up.
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The 99 2.5l is known for head gasket issues, but your symptoms sound more like a radiator at this point. You could also check your ac condenser and make sure it isn't clogged with bugs and stuff.
I would be careful about letting it get Much hotter than half gauge, running hot will shorten the life of your headgaskets considerably.
Different Injectors, Does it matter?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The main thing is that you can run redtops with the older ecu, but they won't be flowing correctly and your car will be running slightly rich. Yes it's probably fine, but your not getting you best performance out of it.