mikaleda

Look for eneven pad wear, if its wearing more on the outside the slide pins need attention, if wear more on the inside then the caliper should probably be replaced. Usually its the slide pins that get corroded causing uneven wear.

A lot of things can happen over 2 years and 50k miles, also how bad were they before you changed them the first time and did the shop replace just the bearings or did they change the hub too. Did they use good grease, did they change the seals and grease the lips of the seal. On these I will typical include the price of a new hub since its rare that they are caught in time for the hub to not be damaged. There are still a lot of factors involved and part quality is just one of them. I still say, no one would warranty a wheel bearing 2 years and 50k miles later, even though that is a very short life span. There are just too many things that can happen over that period of time.

And AWD is awesome in the snow compared to 4wd IMHO

Main things to look for on a stick shift How clean is the gear oil, how well does it shift. most importantly is there any input shaft bearing issues, good sighns of which are grinding noises and popping out of fourth of fifth gear under load. At 200k it should have had some major trans repair, or replacement, I've bought three stick shifts around here all past 200k and all of them have been either replaced or rebuilt. Also stick shifts are VERY sensitive to tire wear, so I wouldn't expect to run anything but new tires on it and keep them rotated. When I first bought my stick I put a set of used tire off my moms auto subaru and thought I was good. Then on a long road trip to Montana I found our this wasn't the case, I got lucky that I didn't damage anything and I ended getting brand new tires and haven't had any issues since. I still love my stick and wouldn't trade it for an auto anyday, but o do wish I had know these things when I switched from my old GL to my AWD stick.

100-120psi isn't great, but it should be enough to run. So I would say its more than likely spark. Yes the ej25D has the same sensors as your 95 2.2 so you should be good there.

Exactly why I have AAA

I'll get a roofing screw out of my stash and zip it between the post and the end if it makes me mad, sure its not good for the terminal, but hey sometimes you just got to get it home.

I like to use the marine terminals when I replace them. The originals are good for a while, but steel corodes and then they don't have any room to tighten

Now that's timing, good old subie knew right when to brake down, lol.

Ya, I have a 99 outback with hydraulic clutch and my 90 (cable) and the cable is much easier to push IMHO, and I like having a functional hill holder

I just know that MAF fail alot more often than ecus, in every thread that I've seen someone replace an ecu its never fixed the issue. If you are, were charging for labor time for all this diagnosis it would already have paid for the two most likely culprit parts that are known for failing. I'm just saying that sometimes it doesn't hurt to swap an easy to get to part that has a common history of failing rather than spend hours of time diagnosing it to just replace a part that wasn't a problem.

Also since MAF sensors are a common issue on these anyway. It would still have made more sense to replace it just because if it isn't bad now its very likely to fail later whereas the ecu practically never fails on a Subaru. Just saying

Still doesn't make sense to change ecu for no real reason and not try the MAF. I also beleive there was also mention of another viable problem wich is the main relay, another simple part to change that doesn't cost much used. Sometimes you can over diagnose things, you have thrown tons of time into and still ended up changing parts that don't need to be changed. I'm sorry I just don't get the reasoning.

Turn/stop use the same side of the bulb so yes that wiring setup is correct.

Why do people replace the ecu, when the failure rate of ecus are almost null. Why won't you try replacing the MAF? A used one is just as cheap as an ecu and its like a five minute job. Seriously tearing apart the wiring is very unlikely to help.

Most newer cars have a brake fluid sensor, as the pad wears the piston extends and the fluid level in the master cylinder goes down and a warning light comes on.

Check your brake lights, and or brake fluid

I think there is a shift lock relay, at least the older ones had one and that's what usually goes out on the older models

quote name="elmccabe" post="1313911" timestamp="1452099696"] Could it be a bad TPS? If so, how do I test that? If it is DBW there is a TPS, two gas pedal Sensors and a throttle motor that all have to work together. There is a long trouble shooting process to Go through to make sure everything is communicating properly and that there is no physical carbon blocking the throttle or making it stick. Watching the live data on a scanner while someone else drives it while its messing up should give you an idea of what isn't cimunicating properly. Might take a trained eye to see it though.

2005 should be DBW maybe an issue with gas pedal? Just guessing though

Subarus ujoints are peened in and non serviceable. That being said there are repkacment ujoints that can be had, I believe at Rockforddrivleine.com IIRC. The old joints need to be cut out and the cups need to be pressed out. Not an easy job, would be much easier to find a low milage used driveshaft from the junkyard.

Also rear bearings tend to last to 300k so I wouldn't mess with those unless they are making noise, they are the worst job possible on these cars.

Ya, struts will be most likely next culprit. If your going to change one tie rod I would go ahead an change the other while your there and keep the good one for a spare. Ball joints I wouldn't mess with unless you have to they can be a real PITA. Check the steering rack boots for age cracks, if so I would replace them while you have the tie rods off.

Start with the basics what's missing, fuel, spark, or compression. Once we know what is missing then we can get a diagnosis. Also did you check for codes?

I wouldn't expect anyone to warranty a part 50k and two years later. I would have another shop look at it though, because that price does seem excessive. Another thing you might consider is where you live, like I live down a really crappy un maintained road so I always opt for the more expensive parts since they see a lot more abuse than the average car. My suggestion is to get a second opinion.