mikaleda

Well first thing I would check the connections to the cluster. Also would help to know year make and model.

With a good 1/2" gun and a lift I can do one in about 15 minuets if everything isn't seized. I've yet to see a ball joint seized so bad that a BFH and a good 3 foot pry bar couldt bust loose.

Hmm, I guess I was thinking of the rear CV Axel on the circlip.

Same idea, just a smaller Axel nut, I beleive its a 32 milimeter. Ball joints a 19, circlip on trans side makes that part easier, just need a small pry bar to get it loose.

No matter what a fluid change would be the logical first step in diagnosis.

Finally got the adheasion promoter and it looks promising. My test with just smearing a bit of the paint on it after I stayed it with adheasion promotor worked fairly well the paint didn't come off easily. I need to get a few more things, but so far I'd say its going to work well

Most any parts store will test it for free

all i had to do was drill a 1/2" hole in the plastic plug in the dash and once i installed the switch i just ran a couple small gauge wires down to the clutch switch wired it in parallel and it works like a charm.

Got the switch and got it installed working good. I'm having a problem uploading my photos to photobucket at the moment, but I'll get them up later.

Ya, I'm not a huge fan of K&N filters, their a pain to deal with. Once you clean them you have to wait for them to dry and apply the correct amount of oil. I've actually lost power with them when I first started using one just because I over oiled it. I've also heared of these filters causing MAF sensor issues, wich may not affect your model if its the MAP bases system. Long story short, unless you are really serious about getting the most out of your car, I wouldn't suggest a high performance filter like K&N

Not neccisarilly, I would change the starter. Fuel pumps rarely fail on these cars.

Sounds like the starter is dragging. I had this happen recently on my moms new used 96 impreza, changed the starter out with the older style rebuildable starter and its been great ever since.

Ya its definatly a good idea to use OEM trans filter IMHO

Sounds like dirty connectors were the problem. I've found that those connectors are problematic, a good cleaning of all your connectors might eliminate the rest of your issues. I would suggest getting some electrical cleaner instead of penetrant. Probably wouldn't hurt to check all you ground connections as well

Best place to start, new fluid can do wonders

Just checked out the clutch switch and its connected when fully depressed so I just have to run couple small gauge wires in parelel to the switch and I should be good to go. They even left plenty of extra wire so it should be a really easy mod.

Its about $15 for an aftermarket or about $50 for an OEM Subaru one. Personally since they are such a PITA I buy the OEM ones.

Yes you can read codes on obd1 cars with a scanner if you buy a $1500 solarus scanner from snap-on, truly it just displays the codes it would normally blink out to you is all. Its really not worth buying a scanner cabable of doing this. Your plugs are probably just taped up into the harness. Here is a good link with pics that will help you find your connectors. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

I should mention I pull ball joint from the control arm and not from the hub. I find that is the easiest.

I don't take anything loose other than the ball joint. I can do an Axel on one of these cars in 15 minuets with a lift and a good 1/2" impact. Once the ball joint is loose all you have to do is swing the hub out and you can pull the Axel from the hub then you can go on to the transmission side. I typicaly use a 36 inch craftsman prybar with my 3 pound estwing mininsledge, I've found that combination works most every time no matter how rusty. Some good penetrant helps as well, something better than WD40. I like pb blaster myself, but any good penetrant will help.