mikaleda

I don't see how its a liability, you still had to hit the switch to start it. Its really no different than having to hit the clutch, its basically just a reminder.

Okay here is the switch I'm going to use. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0061GQUS8/ref=mp_s_a_1_40?qid=1450025438&sr=8-40&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=toggle+switches&dpPl=1&dpID=41YrEsOW89L&ref=plSrchI couldn't find any of my spring loaded switches so I figured let's make it look cool.

The last few ball joints I've poped loose with my craftsman 36 inch pry bar didn't need to get smacked by a hammer. Needless to say it surprised me, usually got to beat in them for a while.

I always pop the ball joint loose of the LCA. Pull the nut loose and put some pressure on it with a big pry bar and smack the LCA with a BFH a few times and it should come loose. Once you do that you just have to swing the hub out and. Pull the Axel from the hub

Exactly why I wanted a spring loaded switch so you have to consciously move the switch to bypass the clutch. No different than hitting the clutch.I got the idea from the newer Toyotas that have an interlock button that does this. It sounds pretty straight forward, I will give it a shot. I'll post pics when I'm done.

I am tried of climbing in my car every time I want to start it espicially in the winter and I was thinking about wiring in a spring loaded toggle switch that could be used to manuely bypass the clutch switch. Then I can just reach inside the car hold the switch and start it. I know there is an interlock really and two confirmation switches on the clutch, I'm just not sure what I would have to do to make the switch bypass the clutch switches.

Glad you figured it out. That could have been a real head scratcher.

I agree on the tensioner, its the most likely cause IMHO

Looks awesome

Michelin's are good tires if your doing a lot of pavement driving. The geolanders always sold good up here as well as hankook i-pikes wich are great as a strictly winter tire.

Cool idea, make it into a submarine then it would be a SUBaru

I would try the ignition control module, they can be picked up fairly cheap used. I don't beleive that will throw a code so that would be my next guess

Could be bad injector o-rings or a bad fuel pressure regulator.

Could be a bad ignition control module, could be a bad crank sensor. Best way to find out is using the OBD system.

Still, you can tell by how the filters are assembled the differance is obvious. The quality of material is important. Also missing an o ring and being improperly assembled is two totally different things. If you had an oil filter blow apart than the bypass valve in that truck was malfunctioning.

The knock sensor is supposed to change ignition timing to compensate for low octane fuel. Its possible it can change fuel pulses as well and being damaged its sending the wrong info to the computer. Its possible.

Put outback struts on, they bolt right up. If you want better brakes put the outback brakes on.then you'll need outback rims and tires.

Probably just one, fram really sucks.

( WARNING ) For You Fram Oil Filter Lover's.YouTu…:

I suggest you look up fram vs other filters like wix and Napa brand filters. You will never put another fram filter on your car. Buy yourself a quality filter stay away from fram.

Its also possible the injector o rings are leaking. Try swapping the injectors and rails and the fuel pressure regulator all together and see what happens.

I would put my money on a bad fuel pressure regulator. 150 psi is fine, more than enough compression to run.

My check list when checking out a subie is in order. Tires: how well do they match are they all the same or mixed matched. This can tell you a lot about how well its been taken care of. CV axels: a simple visual inspection followed by a test drive inspection. Visual: look for tears in boots and or aged ready to crack open boots. Grb them and feel how flexible they are. Test drive, listen for clicking or grinding noises when turning. Tourque bind: warm it up drive it in tight circles both directions and see of you can feel it binding. Rust, undercarriage: check the bottom for rust holes and or really rusty crossmeber and components. Noises: check for CV axle clicking bearing noise Oh and most important of all check coolant level color and check for bubbles in the overflow after its been warmed up and driven a bit. (good sign of a bad head gasket).

Sounds like a typical head gasket.

Keep any eye in your coolant resiviour and make sure you don't see bubbles now that you have it burped.