mikaleda

I can't beleive it!!! I found a good used switch for $50 on eBay and it won't let me buy it!!!! Just my luck.

Check out the FAQ sticky at the beging of this forum or the usrm I beleive there is a write up in there.

Nothing like a bit of liquid wrench (and I mean the original liquid wrench called a torch) And a BF breaker bar and pipe.

I suggest taking it to the dealer. I'm thinking it must be a warning sound for either seatbelts, door ajar ect...

I don't beleive there is any way to do that. As many issues as your having its sounding more and more likely its the headgasket. When its starting to overheat pop the cap on the resiviour and look for bubbles

Overheating issue, I would check coolant level first but there's a good chance you need a new radiator. Get one online they are about $100-$125.

Maybe some stubborn carbon stuck to the a valve? I would start with a compression test and see what #'s your getting. Are you still getting oil on the plug?

It wouldn't surprise me, the older ones were like that as well.

Just got done upgrading my system to 20v max. I now have a 1/2", 3/8", 1/4" impacts I've got a dewalt vaccume, flashlight, and drill and several batteries ranging from 2.0 amp hour to 5.0 amp hour batteries. I'm very impressed so far and I still have my original 18v 3/8" impact that has gone through hell and back. I love all my dewalt tools. I wish they would come up with a battery powered die grinder next.

I'm interested in this myself since I just setup my LLC.

okay I'm doing some more research on this and it looks like i will be needing only one relay per door it looks like and i should be able to use the original output to the motor to actuate the relay. Now i just need to figure out where to pull the power from. I'm thinking i will probably want to use the original main power source to keep it from getting too complex. I think i will start with one of the rear doors since they should be more easily accessed and not a huge deal if i screw something up. IIRC all power is routed through the master switch and i will need to replicate this with my relay setup so i am assuming that i will need to tap all relays into the main harness at the drivers side door. I'm still not sure exactly how i am going to do this though, i have pulled apart several of these switches over the years and i have studied them thoroughly and i am still not exactly sure how they work yet. It looks like they operate similar to most power window setups, but instead of each window having a dedicated circuit and switch they are all connected through the master switches circuit board. I'm having a hard time finding good interior wiring diagrams of the power window circuit, if anyone knows where i can find one it would be much appreciated.

Is a circlip all that holds those in? Cause I've pulled the Axel out the doj cup before when trying to remove a stubborn Axel and those stubs are super solid.

Dark brown would be gear oil which is what you should be seeing. And if the CV is shot for sure and the car was still running like that it will probably still function once everything is back in place. I wouldn't venture far enough to say its neccisarilly safe that way though.

Just read the other half of your post. The spline shaft that attaches the C.V. to the transmission should not be coming out. If it just fell out when you pulled the axle out it will probably still work, but i would say it does need to be taken care of sooner than later. the cv axel may not be cuplrit eaither is their any damage to the boot or any play?

It will fit, but it will have a vibration in at stop in gear. The Manuel trans has a slightly different DOJ cup than the auto IIRC.

Its very likely the battery, most parts stores would be happy to test your battery and charging system for free.

I found this product, http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-CP199-Adhesion-Promoter-Primer/dp/B0007UAXJQ. I am going to go down to my hardware store and have them mix me up a match to my trim, Ill post my results when finished.

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=54046&sid=178badfe76211f011671f24d31e17581 i just found this thread on the same topic, i would still like to find a paint made for plastic, but it does sound like a practical solution if nothing else pops up

Okay, as some of you probably know i own, owned and work on several of these first gen Legacys and i have found a common problem that is just a inherent to these cars as the faulty climate control and i have not found any threads that go into much detail about them. The master window switches on these first gen Legacys are always malfunctioning. I've taken several apart and cleaned them to restore partial functionality, but the success rate of the working is getting less and less as time goes by. I've found that after 25+ years the switches contacts are eroding and cleaning them is not restoring functionality anymore. I know from experience the first gen Legacys all have a problem with dirty sticky window rails so the only permanent solution is going to be removal, cleaning, and re-greasing of the tracks as well as fixing the faulty electrical. My only idea to permanently fix the switch failure short of buying a new switch ($180 at dealer) would be to rewire the controls to go through DPDT Relays that are actuated by the old switches. I don't fully understand how to accomplish this tough since the original switches are wired into a control circuit which supply's power to the other switches as well. i am getting ready to do a full service of the electric windows on my car and my neighbors car is down to only one functioning window and i will more than likely be servicing their car soon as well so i will be able to refine the process and hopefully get a few pictures and a write-up on the process going. i have a feeling with the age of these cars this is going to become a more common problem soon. Any help would be much appreciated, this will be a slow process i expect since funds are low and so is time at the moment. This problem is getting old Quickly though so i will be getting this done as fast as i am able.

I have a blue interior Subaru and i have a hard time finding trim pieces the right color. i have some identical trim pieces that are gray, but i want them to match the rest of the car. My idea was to try and find the correct color plastic paint and paint the gray trim pieces to match. my problem is finding the right color paint, I either find to dark or to light color of blue. I know napa can mix exterior paint to match and i was wondering if anyone knows of a place where i can get a plastic paint mixed to match. I am also wondering if anyone knows any good repairs for the door vinyl (dog claw marks, typical of most Subarus i find ). im hoping to get the interior of this car back to as good as new.

Sounds like your not getting all the air out the system. Start by pulling the upper block hose and filling the block first. There is also a vent on top of the radiator by the top radiator hose the needs to be removed when filling. You can mix your antifreeze up to a %70, mixture without any real issues. I suggest burping the system again and seeing what happens.

Put the thermostat in boiling water and see if it opens and how far it opens.

If the belt did break than it would sound weird when cranking over as well as if its spinning faster since the will be no compression with the valves not moving. There is not neccisarilly any reason to suspect the belt yet anyway, timing belts fail just a frequently as sensors.

Yes, suggest checking the wiring harness sometimes they are taped way back in hard to get to places.

Check out this link. It has good pics and descriptions that should really help you out. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html