mikaleda

If it's a head gasket you could gut the thermostat and run straight 30w oil and run it till it blows

Another good question to ask is did he use OEM headgaskets. If not I don't know if I would trust the motor to not blow the head gaskets again in another 10k miles

Ya I would suspect TB tensioner first, but its possible its just the lifters needing to be adjusted as well. I know some of these cars are just like that as well. How long have you owned the car with that engine? Ever been overheated badly or run low on oil? If not its probably safe to assume your motor is solid.

All newer multiport engines have cold air intakes stock. I don't really see any reason to put an aftermarket intake on one of these cars unless you planning on really working it hard. Only thing it will accomplish is to make it breath a bit better maybe jump 1-2 HP more out of it. Nothing your going to notice.

It couldn't start itself unless it had a rear pump, no way for it to build pressure to fill converter and turn the motor. No rear pump no pull start Unless it had an aftermatket converter with lockup. 83 didn't have a lock up converter either

The older autos in domestic cars had rear pumps and it was possible for them to be push starterted and was a major reason they were such diehards. Rear pumps in auto transmissions we're phased out a long time ago for fuel economy and weight reasons. On an auto car that doesn't have a rear pump towing with the drive wheels on the ground with the engine not running can burn up your transmission.

Seafoam is a good all around fuel system cleaner and would not hurt to run it and see if it helps. Its quite possible if its been wet and rainy lately that the gas station you got gas from could have had some water in their gas and only a few people are being affected by it. I would try getting gas froma different station next time you fill up and see what happens. I would feel safe in using any fuel stabalizer that is made for ethanol I beleive sta-bil has a new product out that is designed for ethanol gas and it should also help with phase separation (water in ethanol gas) this can cause miss fires and other performance issues so it is a reasonable place to start if it was a sudden occurrence right after you filled up. Another thing i was going to mention is your rusty fuel filler may be causing a vaccume leak causing issues, I beleive I've heard of this causing missfires at idle IIRC

Its possible, but its not likely. Its easy enough to have the alternator and battery tested buy most any auto parts store or shop For free since they are hoping they will be able to sell you one or the other. If your battery is old and sounding like its on its last legs you should probably replace it anyway.

Just throwing this out there, you don't want to use heet in ethanol gas. Ethanol is alcohol and heet is alcohol your going to just compound the problem if you pour heet into ethanol gas. The only thing that I have found to work for water in ethanol gas is startron enzyme treatment, but anything that is made for ethanol gas I would feel safe in using.

Ya, I think you should definalty not drive it like it is. It sounds like there is some major center diff issues.

it was $90 on amazon free shipping for the motul and $50 free shipping for the extra s. i have prime so it should be here by next Tuesday, I hope, amazon isn't as good as they used to be its just convenient.

the rate of the noisy vs the speed your going it must be something in your diriveshaft is going out, more than likely your carrier bearing. i agree with fairtax the quickest easiest fix would be a new driveshaft.

i have read the same things about the new extra -s and i still decided i would try it just because i haven't seen a single oil that someone didn't like. I will check into the motul 300 and see what it says maybe ill try that as a next step if im not satisfied with the extra s i ordered. wow seems people really like the motul 300 of course its twice the price of extra s or the mobil 1 i was looking at, but it would be worth it if it works like it says it would be worth every penny. looks like the reviews online are quite positive as well. shoot i guess ill order 4 quarts of that oil as well. Ill try the extra s in my outback and ill try the motul 300 in my legacy and see what happens. well there goes $140 in oil

I swear this subject is so freaking varried its hard to tell what is a good idea and what's not. Every single thread I've read is like this. One person suggests a brand of oil, the next says it won't work. Then someone says mix this and this and then you have the right oil (I agree I don't like the idea of mixing oils) and the next person says no that will ruin your transmission. The thing is these transmissions are known not the be very long lasting so there is no way to know if the reasons people have a failed transmission is because of the oil they put in it or if it was already on its last legs and nothing was going to save it. I have to change my transmission fluid anyway so I'm going with the extra-s since its the only one that says its made for subaru. Its a 75w-90 so maybe it will be better cold shifting (I hope) if not I'll change it next year and try one brand of synthetic and see what happens and if its like some people say I'll try adding a quart of a oil stabalizer and see what happens. Since I have a few of these transmissions around and a couple of stick shift cars, I should be able to try it out on a couple of cars at the same time and find out for myself. Once I figure it out I'll post my results so no one else has the headache I have now.

I agree I don't like mixing a bunch of different oils, I am going to try straight mobile 1 and if I don't like it I have a quart of redline I'll add.

Looks like since part of that process is adding a friction modifier the oil I'm looking at shouldn't need that Parr of the cocktail. I might add a quart of the redline heavyweight additive they talk about in the post I can see how that would help keep the gears coated in oil. Myain concern has always been the input shaft bearing, I was thinking the most likely reason for failure is the warm up period when the trans is cold and not getting any lubrication from the conventional 80w-90 and that is part of the reason I wanted a thinner oil. I think I'll try mobile one with a quart of redline heavyweight to help the syncros Okay I just ordered a cocktail of redline heavyweight shock proof and 3 quarts of mobile one synthetic LS I'll post my results and let you guys know how it works.

The reason I was thinking of moving to synthetic is because of the very cold winters we get up here. Its very hard in my transmission when its -10 and even after warming up the engine having to push my way through a couple feet of fresh ssnow. I want something that won't turn to mallases when it gets cold. Also since the product uI am looking at has a friction modifier in it already I don't think it should have any problems with the syncros. They do operate very similar to a LSD diff anyway. I already am having issues with reverse and first engaging. I generly rpm shift anyway so I don't think abeing to slippery for my syrncros will be an issue.

It is gl-5 I missed typed. Here is the description from amazon Description Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 is a supreme performance, synthetic, multi-purpose, SAE 75W-90 automotive gear lubricant designed to meet the highest level of performance requirements of modern passenger vehicles in all types of operating conditions, including limited slip applications, as well as delivering outstanding power transfer performance. Compared to conventional hypoid gear lubricants, Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube LS 75W-90 performs exceptionally well over a wide range of temperatures. It achieves this through a unique proprietary formulation that delivers optimized viscosity as a function of temperature properties together with the highest level of inherent formulation stability and protects against thermal and oxidative degradation, wear and corrosion, and viscosity loss associated with premature shearing. It also can be used in extended service and for aiding in fuel economy performance. It contains special friction modifiers designed for limited slip-type differentials. In most applications, the addition of special LS (limited slip) additives is not required. For axles requiring the highest level of limited-slip performance, OEM specific LS additives can be added to this fluid. It combines wax-free synthesized hydrocarbon base oils and a specially designed extreme-pressure, limited-slip, sulfur-phosphorous additive system to provide a significantly higher level of performance in rear axles and differentials versus conventional fluids. Greater film strength at higher operating temperatures, reduced fluid friction and low-temperature application down to -50 degree celsius provides significant advantages versus conventional mineral oil formulations. It reduces wear and spalling under the high speed, high torque and high horsepower conditions in competitive racing and high performance automobiles.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18805 Here is another thread that talks about it further

I beleive people like castrol synthetic 75w-90 gl-4 gear oil. I'm thinking about trying out mobile 1s equivalent to this I'm my car its about $15 a quart though Edit: to be clear I am using a gl-5 gear oil. Mobil one 75w-90 LS synthetic

Those 05 outbacks are a pain to work on anything to do with the dash, try pulling your glove box off lol you'll end up pulling most of you center console in the process. I don't know what they made these so hard to work on.

I beleive he said he pulled the engine, there would be no reason to pull the converter or drain any fuid from the transmission

More than likely they are ceramic pads. Most parts stores only stock ceramic pads for all the newer subarus.

Check the harness connections, these are very hard to get clicked together completely and can cause a lot of different problems

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142