mikaleda

Here are some pics.

Do you have an EGR? Your EGR valve could possibly be sticking open. I had a similar problem on a Chevy suburban recently. The EGR was stuck open at an idle and it was throwing off the map sensor reading causing a rough idle. I took the valve off and plugged the holes and it fixed it. It actually ended up being the EGRs vaccum valve was leaking, I ended up putting the EGR back on and disconnecting the valve

I bought mine for a 99 outback and it was a direct fit, I bought mine from partsgeek.com. worked fine and my sister now owns the car and has put thousands of miles on it in the last few months since her drive to work is about 75 miles one way.

That post told me basicly what I needed to know, I was hoping that the dash harness would be universal with plugins for both auto or stick. I will just swap out the entire dash since it's in better shape than mine, then I just need to swap wiring harness at the firewall and that should be that. The rest is just mechanical stuff I know I can figure out. I can swap the pedals and stuff while the dash is out. The only reason I think it won't be all that hard is, I have two cars same year, model, gear ratio, color inside and outside. The auto with 117k miles on it runs perfectly and has a beautiful interior. I'm already planning on swapping the doors, hatch, hood, fenders, and most of the interior. My bearings are growling so putting the hubs out of the 117k mile car is good fix. If the sub frame wasn't damaged on the auto I would just fix it. Mine is quite clean and rust free body. I've replaced all 4 struts and the motor with a 30k Mile replacement USDM motor. I have been extremely hard on the drive train of this car the way I have driven it and I know all four bearings are going out the drive line is getting tired, and my rear axels are tired I'm sure as well. Probably will take me about a month, but I just got my old Scottsdale up and running and gas prices are cheap so ill just drive that for a while.

i just came across a subaru for $350. my step dad needed a motor and i needed parts for mine so we bought it. its a carbon copy of mine samee color and everything except its an auto. it also runs and drives and has 117K iles on it. i got it for so cheap because it as t-boned and damaged the subframe. my car is getting high in milage (230k) except for the motor i recently replaced. my transmission works ok, but ive been hard on it and i think its probably gettting close to time for a clutch. my thought is to convert my car to the auto and swap hub assemblies, axels, driveline, ect. how hard would it be to convert to the auto. im not worried abot the mechanical stuff thats self explanitory. im wondering would i need to swap the dash? Id imagine i would need to swap cluster and the wiring harness.

You know, I might just cut the bell housing out of an old transmission I got laying out back, then I could torch the converter off behind the ring gear. Then I could bolt the ring gear, the cutoff bell housing, and the starter to the engine and spin it over. That would be something that would help to tell me the condition of the motor.

That's not a bad idea.I've thought about making a plate that I could bolt on for the starter so I can spin an engine over and do compression tests and check overal condiron of the motor. I'm so used to being able to do that with my old Chevy's.

Update if anyone is interested. My customer took the car over and they confirmed it was a rod knock and warrentied the motor and they called me up and offered to pay my to R&R it again plus gas. Hopefully this one will be better.

That's exactly what I was about to suggest to them when they started cussing me out. So I told them they need to deal with it and that I'm still willing to finish the job, but they still need to pay me for my labor.

Its definitely a rod knock, I ran the motor with no covers on it and the tensioner stayed steady the whole time it was knocking. I should have just refused to install the motor when I saw all the things that were wrong on it. The orange silicon on the valve cover gaskets made me worry. Under no load it just lightly ticks until reved up, but under load it gets really loud and louder the higher the rpm.

Well I've washed my hands of it, the customer wants me to warranty the motor even though they bought it and hired me to install it. I told them I would drive down there with them and help them get it warrentied, but I couldn't get down there till Monday and they freaked out on me. Long story short I'm out 6+ hours of labor not including the 2 hr drive time each way. Long story short from my research any ej25d is a gamble JDM or not, its just a crap shoot for these motors. Oh well learning experience.

Okay so this is the first time I've delt with an imported motor and I've never had so many issue in a job like this. First of the motor was picked up by someone else, I was just hired to swap the motors out. The motor was sitting on the floor with a non EGR intake and the head has an EGR port. Spark plug wires were taken off one side and cut off the other. There was orange silicone on the valve cover gaskets. The timing belt covers were broken and the motor looked worse for wear than the other motor I pulled out. So I swapped the intake, timing covers, cams, sensors, valve covers, and misc other stuff off the other motor. I put a gates timing belt kit on, with a genuine Subaru water pump and a new ntn tensioner. I filled it most of the way up with coolant and put four quarts of oil and a new filter on it and fired it up. At that point it ran great, oil light turned off in 30-40 seconds. Then it started knocking. I got in and reved it up and it would quiet down, then i put it in gear and reved it up and it knocked loud. It sounds like a rod knock to me, but I had another mechanic I know look at it and he thinks its something to do with the cams. Could it be something to do with the cams or is it worth even messing with? I'm at lose of what to do, the motor that came out was overheated till it shut off so I doubt I'll be able to use any parts off that motor to fix this one.

Sounds like a good one to me, I'd say it sounds like they knew what they where doing.

I've seen the cheaper fram filters that were improperly assembled myself, its one of those things once you see that then you really don't want to run that brand again. On the other side of the coin I do believe you get what you pay for with any brand of filter, the ultra frams probably are fine. I always have run wix and have never had a problem and they just feel like better construction. Then again I only run the gold wix filters and I can't say to the quality of their cheaper filters. In the end as long as your not just running the cheapest filter on the market your likely getting good enough protection for your engine. So far your the first person I've come across that had an intelligent response to the question of quality of fram filters. I'll take back my remark on fram being crap. I still will continue to run wix, but I won't be quite so fast to condem fram.

I would suggest monitoring the front o2 sensor with a scanner that has live data and see if its stuck in a closed loop. That is a surefire way to tell if the 02 is bad or not. IIRC the front 02 is the only oxygen sensor that is used for fuel trims. There is also the possibility of ECTS and or MAP sensor malfunctions. I would also suggest checking all of your intake tubing for leaks, that can throw of air fuel meetering as well

Fram is crap, watch the videos online and you'll understand why. fram will never be run on any car I work on. I'll only run wix myself, but anything is better than fram.

+1 on valvoline max life, made a huge difference on my motor. I also found Napa brand max life that's about $2.50 a quart less and is the exact same oil.

You should use only Bosch 02 sensor, I bought one on parts geek for under $100 Yes cheap ones will cause problems. This thread has turned out exactly like every thread I've read about this problem, I think the 02 sensor should be moved to the top of the miss fire list. Especially since a scanner with live data will show the fault everytime

I would go into the shop and talk to them and work out an agreement that will work for both of you. I would also get ahold of exedy and see what their warranty covers for defective parts and see if they can cover part of the cost of the rework if not all of it. You may need to send the clutch back in to be inspected before they will cover any costs though. Unfortunately your kind of stuck inbetween a rock and a hard spot since you purchased the parts and brought them in.

It will run w/our exhaust bolted up but its not a good idea for more than a second. Check the large hose that goes from IAC to intake tubing that is the most common thing to forget to put back on and will cause this exact issue.

Bad injectors are common on these older legacy's. I have never found a product that has ever brought one back once it goes. Easiest fastest fix is to swap the entire fuel rail out.

I've installed injectors w/ rails off of a 97 in my 90. If you swap them with the rails pretty Much any phase 1 90-99 will fit. I'd say any 90-97 legacy for sire would fit and should be easy to find. 2.5l or 2.2 will fit as well as long as its the DOHC 2.5 IIRC

Coolant is white smoke, but Subaru head gaskets don't fail that way anyway they have already replaced them with OEM gaskets so its not head gaskets. Oil is usually blue smoke, but small amounts of oil will cause a light gray smoke that can look white. I agree the PVC is a good place to start though.

Definitely sounds like an electrical problem of some sort. I think I'd start by verifying power is getting to the tcu when this happens.

The crack in the pipe is your problem, its letting air in cooling the front 02 sensor making it change the fuel air mixture. Get the crack welded up and you'll be good to go