mikaleda

This seems to be a rather persistent problem with Subarus HVAC controls not responding properly. The problem is usualy the connector pins becoming desoldered this thread goes into it extensively. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1142

The problem is on the back of the circuit board where the plug pins are soldered to the board, they tend to desolder themeslevs and typically you just need to hit them with a soldering gun for a couple seconds to reheat the solder. There is an informative thread on legacy central about this it talks about the first gen legacys but, I'm sure it would be a similar process. I'll see if I can find the thread and I'll post a link.

I'd say it all depends on how well its been taken care of. If the car is in good shape and looks like its been well mainteneced I would say it would probably be worth it.

Sounds like a failing maf. I would also check codes before replacing a parts though.

Sounds like a cheap block heater. They go in place of one of the freeze plugs

Yep it can be done, you have to take the motor mounts loose and jack each side of the motor up a couple inches get the head bolts clear.

I've tried most everything, mines a NA. I've replaced pcv with OEM new one, I've done an intake cleaning with seafoam, I've tried different types of oil to no avail. So far the only thing I can attribute it to is the way I drive must be causing excessive oil to be sucked into the baffels when I hit high rpms and then when I engine brake down hills it sucks the oil up into the intake and burns it. I've been going through about 1.5 to 2 QTS per 3000 miles.

I'm interested in this as well, I've had this happen a few times myself. I am battling an oil comsuption issue as well. My engine has about 50k miles on it. I drive my car fairly hard though

More than likely it's your HVAC control panel. These cars seem to have an inhearent problem of the contacts in the switches desoldering themselves. I know my 90 is like that and 05-06 HVAC had this problem as well. I haven't heard of it as much in the late 90's but I wouldnt be surprised if that's the problem.

Should fit any model with the same gear ratio. Probably any legacy, maybe outback and forester probably not going to fit impreza

No the four bolts is all it needs and they line up just fine

Good to know, these years are fairly confusing since they made so many changes in such a short period.

How long has it been since plugs and wires were changed? These cars are somewhat sensitive to the type of wires most people say to only run ngk, but I've ran Napa lifetime wires on several of these without issues. Aside from tune up may be needing an intake cleaning, and run some injector cleaner in your gas as well.

Mine was a phase 2, it had the eight hole block. Now I could see a 99 phase 2 ej22 working, but I've seen ej251 short blocks installed on older OBW, but they had to use the ej25d heads and manifolds. Aside from that the maf sensor is on a separate part of the harness its possible you could do a work around. Idle air control issues I could see, but that should be a fairly easy fix, if that was the only problem.

I just put a phase 1 ej22 in my 99 OBW. I used the wiring harness off the ej25d intake on an old egr ej22 intake I had. Worked just fine, I don't know if it would work with what your doing but if it works phase 2 ej25d to phase 1 ej22 I don't see why it wouldnt work.

The CEL should come on for a short period when you turn the key to on position with engine off. If it doesn't then you have a burned out bulb or light was disabled by the p.o. somehow.

New head bolts is unnecessary as well and you should always resurface your heads.

Felpro or OEM only. Felpro gaskets are identical to OEM at least on ej22s that is. I can't say for sure the ej22e is the same, but I am fairly sure it should be.

Also, when lapping valves male sure not to use too much compound because it can get into the valve guides and eat them out as you are lapping them in

Best way to check valve guides is to slide the valve part of the way down and sew if you are getting any side play. There should be little to non

Okay obviously that wasn't correct since I forgot resistors are measured in ohms and not milivolts. Damn this is confusing as heck.

I can't find much info on where to get the eliminator kits and when I did a google search it seems they make them for bikes more than cars. I found a post talking about this and I think it says that the rear o2 needs to see 450mv to be in optimal range. So if I were to buy a 450mv resitor thereticaly I could solder that into the circuit and eliminate the rear o2 sensor?

I found a few different eliminator kits, but I'm not sure which one to use. In theory if I got the right resistor I should be able to solder it in and call it good.

I was thinking about welding a new o2 bung in myself but, I thought that there might be an easier fix. I thought I remembered the eliminator fix and like you said it was a resistor I beleive. I'll try a search and see if I can find it.

I'm trying to fix up this 99 outback I was given and I have ran across a dilemma. The exhaust looked solid to begin with but, I've found a few issues. Firstly I'm missing 2 out of the three o2 sensors,the rear o2 sensor is snapped off flush and is rust welded in, and I have flang issues. Overall the exhaust is structurly solid and I would like to use as much of it as I can, but I don't want to have a check engine lite and I don't see any way of repairing the rear 02 sensor without replacing that section of the exhaust. My question is, can the rear o2 sensor be bypassed without causing a check engine light? I'm not concerned about passing emmisions, I just don't want to have a check engine light on.