mikaleda

just go to the junk yard and pull the entire rail. the injectors are the same in any 90-99 ej22 it doesnt matter if they are auto or manuel as long as you change the whole rail out. im using injectors out of a 96 auto in my 90 manuel

Wires coming out of your tires screams get different tires immediately. when you see wires coming out of your tread like that your not far from having the tread seperate and then your basically riding around on a balloon. usually they seperate at the worst times, and bad accidents can happen even at low speeds. If you insist on running this tire at least rotate it to the passenger side rear. That way if you have a blowout it won't take out your steering or drag you into oncoming traffic

Now that I have the time I'm planning on going through my spare ej22 and doing the head gaskets. I would like to resurface the block, but Im planning on keeping it in one piece while I resurface it. Anyone know a good way to do this? I'm thinking of similar process, but laying the glass on the block with some weights on it to give it even pressure and moving the glass instead of the block. I just want to make sure I'm not going to ruin the block by doing this. I would appreciate some input on this

My standard is a 4.11 I think it matters more on the year

I do believe I've heard of people on here fixing damage like that. I don't know the method they used hopefully someone with experience with this will chime in soon

I can garuntee the part numbers will not be the same. That doesn't mean the starters will be differant phiscally, the best way to find out would be try it and see.

I'm very doubtful your cat is the problem, especially since its running fine. I would check for leaks in the fuel filler neck, its common for them to rust out and cause an air leak similar to a loose gas cap. You'll have to pull the plastic cover off to inspect it properly.

The speed helps when I comes to pulling off parts that have a little play like pulling off a harmonic ballance pully bolt. But the dewalt has the highest ftlb of any of the impacts I found. The dewalt 20v 1/2" impact has 400ftlbs of tourque mine has 300 ftlbs

I do like how compact the snap on impacts are but I don't like the price. I like my dewalts for the veristality of the battery's I can use my battery's in a lot of different tools like the dewalt drills, sawzall, side grinder, ext... And seriously for price and versitility its hard to beat the dewalt 1/4". You can get 3/8ths and 1/2" adapters for and it has almost the tourque the 3/8ths impact has I'm going to look for a more compact higher torque 1/2" impact, the dewalt impact works good as a tire gun but aside from that its to bulky to get into most spots its needed and it doesn't have enough power to pull axle nuts off which is where I really need it. Maybe something with more IPM (impacts per minuet)

I think you should take it to someone with a scanner and have the codes read. I don't think there is anyway around that with obdII

I always use felpro and have never been let down. As for online retailers it's hard to beat rockauto, but I usually pay the dollar or two extra for the convenience of the parts store. The nice thing about rockauto though is you can find brands that most parts stores don't carry. Just make sure you watch the shipping.

The stick makes it feel more sporty though

My legacy has over 220k on it and is quite as can be going down the road, shifts good and everything. I did buy it at 211k so I don't know if the trans was replaced or not though

Check the trans harness conections they are hard to get clicked in all the way. Also check and make sure the connections are clean as well. Putting the fwd fuse in will put the car in front wheel drive disengaging the rear end The at light flaahing is telling you there is a code.

92-94 had more than just a face lift. Injectors were changed, ecu was changed to jces in both auto and manuel, final drive ratios were changed. The base powertrain is the same but they are still quite different Technicaly wasn't changed much, but there were some major changes that make me consider them a different car.

That's true but for the info he requested the info was plentiful

Your first post gives us all the info we need He stated its a 1st gen That means its either a 89, 90 or 91 he stated that its a 4eat (auto) he mentioned the awd mod so I'm assuming its awd, it has to be a non interference ej22 unless the motor has been changed.

Try running a jumper cable from the +positive battery post to the +supply on the starter and see if it starts if not try jumping the trigger wire. Also does the starter click? If so it could be the starter contacts, a new set of contacts can be had for about $11 on eBay

Auto injectors V.S. Manuel injectors Explained http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113733-different-injectors-does-it-matter/

This is what my experience has been. I usually leave rebuilding them to the local automotive electrician, I have all my starters and alternators rebuilt by him.

I have the dewalt 18v xrp batteries and I can go for hours ripping stuff apart. The 1/2 inch though is just not quite the same as an air impact, it will pull of damn near any lug nut off you want but it doesn't like CV axle axle nuts or anything much over 1 inch. The other problem I have with the dw059 is the profile, it just is to long to get into a lot of spots an air impact will get to and The smaller 1/2 inch impacts dewalt sells just don't have much power. Funny thing is after I spent $200 on my dw059 I see a 20v max litium ion 400 ft lbs 1/2" impact for sale for less than I paid for my 18v impact (doh) Dewalt batteries recharge in an hour or less most times and I even have a 12v charger so I can charge on the go. Being a mobile mechanic an air system that can stand up to what I need would be a huge challenge and would cost several thousand, so the battery powered impacts are awesome for what I do. In the future though I plan on having an onboard air system that can handle a good 1/2" gun for the more stubborn bolts, but it will still be nice to have my dewalt 1/2 for changing a tire on the side of the road or if I don't feel like firing up my truck to go to a job. I like useing my Subaru for a service rig, a lot better milage and I can still stuff a ton of tools in it (especially since I don't have to haul around a generator and air compressor )

I just bought a few dewalt 18v impact drivers and I love them. I have the dw059 1/2" 300 ft lbs And the 3/8 145 ft lbs And the 1/4 135 ft lbs I love them they work just a well as the pnematic impacts that I've used except there is still nothing quite like a 1/2" air impact. Battery life is good a can do several jobs before rechaging The warranty is awsome the tools and batteries have a 3year warrenty and a 1 year of free maintenec I am a mobile operation and these have been a life saver for time and productivity I've noticed the 3/8 impacts are getting popular on the hotrod shows. I think that with the technology changing more and more people will be using these impacts I'm just curious if anybody has tried or used any battery powered impacts?

Why would they be different than any other head? I've never had any problem with compression when I lap a new valve in. Granted I've never done this job on a subaru, but have done this on many older v8s and 6s and single cylinder motors. Thatsthe reason the sell valve grinding material and valve lapping tools, it just needs the valve and seat to properly fit together. Unless your rebulding the head there should be no reason you can't Lapp the valves in and get good compression.

I wouldnt suggest grinding the valves unless your compleatly rebuilding the entire engine. By rebuilding and grinding the valves it will have like new compression that is going to put exessive pressure on the lower end causing failure of the lower end sooner than if you just install and lap the new valves in. Just my 2 cents and what I've heard from every mechanic I know.

You might as well replace them while your there