mikaleda

Okay I installed OEM pcv valve and have put some miles on the car. The problem is actually getting worse. At 1000 miles on the oil change it has gone through a half quart of oil. So now I am going to change the oil when it gets down under half on the dipstick and I'm going back to 10w/30 generic brand oil and see what happens

Starter contacts are probably going out. They are easy to replace and are a common issue. Aftermarket starters suck in my opinion, I would have that starter repaired rather than replaced

2200 is quite steep, I was quoted 1600 on my 90 and that was with all OEM parts

Sounds like an adjustment issue. maybe you adjusted the wrong direction? I would try adjusting it the other direction. If that fails it could be a cracked or bent shifting fork causing issues

I'm not trying to burn anyone, I'm just tired of hearing this comon misconception.It just makes me wonder why its so prevalant

The only reason people ever use sealent on a headgasket is on older cast iron motors that have piting on the mating surface that can't be taken care of any other way. It is never the proper way to instal a head gasket and anyone who knows what their doing will never do this

Clean the wound and jb weld the s*%$ out of it. It will get you down the road till you can replace the pan. Personally if I'm pulling the pan its going to be a permemanant fix. You could weld it, if you pull it and clean it good then you wouldn't need a new pan

I only remember seeing the old ford van and the 90's GMC they had in raising hope. Oh and the old beater Pinto

I would use the non turbo specs since the bolts and heads are made for non turbo specs

Found it, this is actually about replacing the front seal but will get you where you need to go. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=90182&highlight=input+bearing

Its not your throw out bearing, its the input shaft bearing. A throwout bearing only turns when clutch is engaged and will only make noise when the clutch is engaged. Input shaft bearings are a comon failure in these cars and the transmission has to be pulled and the casing has to be split. For someone like GD with experience and a shop this only takes a day, but for the do it yourselfers it will take longer, but is worth it if its been caught in time. When you replace the bearing use the bearing for the turbo motor, its built better and will last longer. Before planing on doing this replacement I would suggest draning the fluid and inspecting it for metal particulate. If there is just a little bit of metal with no large chunks replacing the bearing is feasible. If there is a lot of metal particulate and metal chunks, start looking for another trans. From the sounds of it you caught it in time since your not having any other issues with drivability. I think there is a thread in here about changing the input shaft bearing, but I'm not sure where.

The brat is priced well, the loyal on the other hand meh

In certain older models of cars (especially dodge) the air bag system is sensitive to backfeed in the system. Its just better to use a better method than these products for safety reasons

This is not a good idea on a car with airbags, the backfeed in the power system could cause the airbags to deploy In certain models. When I went through training on electrical systems we were told to never use these devices for safety reasons

This is not a vaild test for a compiterized car, parsitic drain needs more time and presicion to diagnose properly, best to have a profesional do it

I would have the battery and the charging system tested before blaming parasitic drain. Also jumping your car and using your alternator to charge the battery is extremely hard on the alternator, it's best to get it home then put the battery on an actual battery charger. Now if the battery and charging system test good, then I would lean twords a parasitic drain and have it diagnosed.

Agreed head gasket, very common issue. Easy to stump the average mechanic since they don't show typical sighns of leakage. Block test is well worth while. Also use only Subaru OEM thermostat, aftermarket thermostats don't work

I'm fairly sure they tell you to flush with plain water just to get any other type of coolant out of the system so they don't mix and cause issues. I'm not saying that flushing the system with plain water is correct and that's not how I flush a system, I was just stating what was written on the bottle. You are just trying to start an argument and I am not going to satisfy you. No matter what I say your going to insist that im wrong and your right. All I'm saying is I've always used green antifreeze mixed 50/50 and have never had issues. When I flush a car I use the chemical flush and then afterwards I use water pump lubricant and new antufreeze , I've never had an issue doing it this way. I have worked on cars from 67 to 2011 model years and unless they specifically state to use a certain brand/mixture of coolant I use green low silicate antifreeze mixed 50/50. I have never had any issues doing this period.

Sounds like you released the air bubble in the system, your probably fine now.

I never buy premixed, ever. I don't like paying for water. I have always been told to run 50/50 and have never had any issues with freezing or boiling at this mix. Reading the back of the bottle I do see mix strength chart and do see what you are talking about, but I do see five steps that most people will read 1. Drain cooling system, and flush with plain water 2.let system cool and drain 3.check owners Manuel for system capacity and fill system to achieve a 50/50 antifreeze/water ratio 4. Run engine 10 minuets with heater on high, let coo and check coolant leval Oh and step five 5. Check resivour and radiator levels and top off with a 50/50 mix of same brand antifreeze These are the instructions on the back of Napa extended life antifreeze

Heads are alwaysed warped when the gaskets Go on these motors. Use only OEM or felpro gaskets on these engines (felpro are the same gaskets as oem) follow tourque instructions. Reuse of headbolts is fine. Might as well replace the timing components and water pump while your there Done right you won't have to worry about the HGS again Always instal head gaskets dry

I have used beldin lifetime wires on three separate Subaru's and have seen them in quite a few Subaru's here and have seen no issues caused by these wires. Just don't buy cheap wires

You need to state fact not opinion. Antifreeze is made to be combined 50/50 When I use this mixture with low silicate green antifreeze it tests good to -45. Antifreeze raises boiling point, lowers freezing point and lubricates water pump and keeps corrosion down in thesystem.

Antifreeze bonds with water and raises the boiling temp. If your antifreeze is boiling you are needing a stronger mix, a good antifreeze tester would be good here. Your cap isn't going to cause air to be sucked in while your driving. An intermirent hg leak is quite common, that is how mine went. It would run fine till I went to drive it long distances then the head gasket would start to seep. My thought on this is thermal expansion, as the engine gets properly warmed up the metal gets up to temp compleatly and when you give it a little more gas the gasket starts leaking. Personally its worth the money for the block test to be absolutly sure what is going on. Especially if your positive you got all the air out of the system when you filled it. There is no additive that will stop an internal leak on a Subaru hg failure, the only thing these will accomplish is the clogging of the heater core Use OEM headgaskets only on the 2.5l, would be good to replace the timing belt, idlers, and water pump while your there. I hope its not a head gasket failure, they really suck.

You could have the system pressure tested see if you can see any leaks in the system. I saw a pinhole leak in an upper rad hose on a Subaru once that caused a similar condition