mikaleda

Yep I was planning on using browns bearings. I was also thinking about using them when my input shaft bearing goes out ( I hope that doesn't happen for a while) I might give Napa a shot though, it all depends. I have a couple used sets of idlers laying around and a brand new set as well so I should have plenty of reference numbers. I'm not sure when I'll actually get around to actually replacing the bearings yet, but I do have a few ideas for making the jigs. Looking at the bearings, I don't think that getting the bearing to sit flat is going to be an issue, its just going to be centering the bearing that will be the hard part.

I'm not sure what yout trying to do, but why not tell is what is going on so we can help you fix the problem. More than likely hotwiring the fuel pump is not going to get your car running again

If your looking for that much power (I don't see why, but that's not my concern) your going to want to use an EZ motor (the oposing six cylinder) much heavier duty internals and a bigger cid. I just don't see an ej20 ever being able to put out that much power

I did just start a mobile repair bussines. I have customers as far away as Usk and spirit lake, most of my bissiness is at the lake during the summer, but this time of year I do travel other directions. Pm if you want, I might be able to point you in the right direction to figuring out your problem

Well my stupid phone won't upload the pic of my headlights before and after. I'll update later I used the 3m headlight restoration kit on the headlights on my 90 and the results were excelent. It made a huge difference in how much light my headlights put out You need to sand the old clear coat off and then put a new clear coat on to get the best result, the 3m kit does this

I'm not in Spokane to often, but will let you know if I'm in the area. I like meeting fellow Subaru enthusiasts

I ordered an OEM one through eBay for $14 Even though it would have only cost $5 from my parts store I think its worth it

The quality of parts I've been getting from my parts store has been going down hill rapidly lately. I'm not going to screw around, even though it would probably be okay I'm not chancing it. Unless the dealer wants an outrageous amount for a simple valve

I've had several first gen legacy's and I always check the oil imediatly after shutting it off and it has always been accurate. When I drained the oil I got just over 3 quarts so it was about 1 1/2 quarts low. I'm fairly sure the pcv is the problem, since I made a few trips to spokane in the last week and driving around town and avoiding idiots I did alot of romping on the gas. That is more than likely part of what caused the exsessive oil cinsumprion, weak pcv+high rpms= oil consumption I did reshearch pcv issues and found that only OEM should be used since aftermarket ones arnt weighted right I'm going to order one from Subaru of Spokane in the next couple days and install it. Till I do I'm going to be easy on the acceleration

I'll try a new pcv first and see what happens. The oil pan is spotless so I doubt its leaking oil anywhere around the pan Vent lines are clean, that was the first thing I checked, since I've had that problem before.

Okay this is weird. So I recently put a low milage motor in my Subaru and it has been great. I've been driving it for about 6k now and haven't had any issues at all. Since this motor has under 100k on it (I think it has around 50k) I started running castrol gtx 5w-30 in it. At first I was estatic the lifter noise quit and it seemed to be using the normal amount of oil that it has been (about a quart per 3000 miles). When I checked the oil at about 1500 miles in it was a half quart down so I added the half quart I had left over after the oil change. Now fast forward to yesterday I go to check the oil on the dipstick and there was nothing! So I drive home (no ticking or oil light and parked it in its usual parking space and checked it again, still nothing! Its right at 3k now so I'm changing the oil and filter as we speak and again with caatrol gtx 5w-30 and a wix filter. There is no oil anywhere on the engine, no puddles under the car when I park it, it doesn't smoke, there is no blow by cold or warm, and the pcv rattles. Where the heck is my oil going? Do I have gremlins?

No the switch just interupts the signal

Its just a dead spot in the ignition switch. When you pulled it and used a screwdriver on it you turned it past the dead spot

Cigarette lighter doesn't have constant power in these cars

As long as the tires match in size and tread wear they should be fine

Personaly, I would change it when it starts to change color, since Subaru's have a dipstick this is easy to keep up on. I think 30k is a little excessive though. Good old gl5 80w/90 any brand should be fine. Also if it has a lsd don't forget to add a friction modifier, I like sta lube equatourque As for synthetic gear oil, I don't know about subaru, but have seen many a failed rear end caused by synthetic gear oil. I know Dana rear ends cannot use synthetic gear oil. I was told this would void the warranty when replacing the rear end in a dodge for a customer.

A bearing knock would be highly unusual, but I guess it could be possible. But it sounds like an multiple things are an issue here. First the timing belt should be inspected, it could have a bad tensioner and/or idler causing a knocking noise. As for the lights, I would bet it's the slipping power steering belt. since the alternator runs off the PS belt and when it was slipping it caused the alternator to slow down enough to turn the lights on.

Ya, its best just to replace the entire shaft, since the rear shaft joints are probably not far behind. What I'm wondering though is why the ujoints snapped without warning like that, I wonder if there is tourque bind issues. Did you recently change a tire out?

I like the idea of the jig. As for size and speed rating, thats no big deal, I can take the old bearings into the local bearing builder and have them matched exactly, they do excellent work. Once the jig has been made the time to rebuild them is negligable, compared to waiting for them to be shipped. Once I've done one set, I'll have all the specs on the bearing and jig setup and then the cost and time would be negligable and quality would be far greater

Okay just to be clear we are talking about the driveshaft coming out of the tail of the transmission? Not the front CV shafts

I have been playing around with idea of rebuilding my timing belt idlers on my 2.2. I had a used set of t belt idlers and I took my race/seal driver and was able to knock the bearing out of an idler easily. I was thinking about buying some good quality bearings and replacing the bearings in my old idlers instead of buying new ones. I know the new bearings would have to be aligned exactly so I was thinking about cleaning the idlers really good and using spray paint to mark their exact position. I doubt it would be hard to find the right size bearings and I bet the cost would be quite a bit cheaper and would probably be better quality than a cheap kit. Any advice? I do have a non interferance engine so if for some reason it were to cause the belt to fail it wouldn't hurt my engine, I'd just have to get a tow home.

Run it for a while with the front end jacked up that's the best way to get all the air out of the system

I'm not sure if it will work on your car in particular vehical, but there is a mod in here that uses a toggle switch to lock the center diff. when you don't want locked 4wd you can turn it off this is usfull since you can't drive down the highway in locked 4x4. I believe all you have to do is inturupt the signal to the duty c cylinoid for this mod That will only work if its an auto though. if its a stick you will have to weld the center diff and you won't be able to disengage it. Which is bad since you won't be able to drive far onroad like this

The purge cylinoid will only open and allow the fumes to be sucked out of the tank when the car is travailing at a steady even pace for an extended period of time like driving down the highway. Now as for your problem, I think fairtax is right, the fuel filler neck IS a common issue in these cars and is not hard to pull the cover over it and inspect it, that would be the next step in my opinion

If its a bad ignition switch, two screws a couple plugs and bam! Its done. You can remove the switch from the ignition cylinder and use a screwdriver and see if it will start. sometimes this will work because you can rock the switch past where it will go normally and you go past the dead spot. Dim headlight on one side is a bad ground in the lighting harness, the should be a chassis ground coming out of the harness on both sides of the car. It is possible its the nutruel safety switch. If its an auto you can try putting it in nutruel instead of park and see if it will start, if so its the safety switch. On a stick you can jumper the connector to the switch and see if that works.