mikaleda
-
Posts
2261 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by mikaleda
-
Well I was asuming they ment fuseabil link since most people would call the sbf a fuse since that's what it looks like and technically what it is. -
Did you clean and lube all the drag points with antiseize? Maybe its a restriction in the rear brake line, try cracking a brake bleeder when it does this and see if it relases
-
Try discinnecting The alternator
-
There is only one in a legacy
-
I found a good protectant hi gloss finish when I resurfaced my head lights. I found a product called rejex, it can be used on the entire car including the headlights and glass. It has UV protecant in it and it leave a smooth finish that's easy to keep clean. Its supposed to last 6+ months as well. I treadted my head lights with it to protect the plastic from the UV rays. Its a no buff product, you wipe it on, let it haze and then wipe it off. Its worked on my headlights great, I used it on both of my cars.
-
I'd rather have a used OEM maf than a new aftermarket maf
-
Plus 1 on bulb mmisalignlent they are a pain to get to, especially if it has the six cylinder in it.
-
I think it finally got resolved by changing the brake booster, it had a TCS sensor in it
-
Newer Toyotas arnt any better. I worked on an 11 seqoia it was constantly breaking down, it had 90k miles on it and we had already replaced the brakes twice, had to replace the rear hatch latch twice and had tons of problems with the traction control Lessen here, all car manufactures have problems at some point. It doesn't mean the entire brand is junk
-
Info on checking trans codes http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html
-
The 4eat that is in your car is an electronic trans, so there won't be a vaccume modulator. Is the power light blinking? If so there is transmission codes
-
I installed alot of mastercraft glacier grips when I was working for a shop, they seemed to be a good tire for the price. They definatly wear faster than a hankook I pike, but you get what you pay for
-
+1, I found this out when I had the head gasket blow out on my Subaru
-
A tire shop isn't the safest place to work. lots of things that can happen just getting tires switched on rims if someone isn't paying attention just my two pennies in
-
I know most new battery's have additives in them so they are "maintenice free". The additives just make them produce less gas. even battery's that have removable caps are still cibsidered maintence free just not maintenice proof. All this means is less pure lead in the battery, which makes them more expensive, less service life and they don't take abuse well. The heavier the battery the better I could really get into newer style batteries, but I think the thread is getting of track a bit, I think I might start a new thread in the off topic section about this.
-
Actually if the battery holds above 9v with half the CCA put to it for 15 seconds its considered a good battery, I tested a lot of battery's when I worked at a service center
-
You can't tell if the battery is bad just by voltage, 12.5 in the cold could be a good battery or a bad battrry. The only real way to tell is to load test the battery All that 12.5 is telling you is that the battery isn't at full charge, its still %80 charged. If the battery is good that would be enough to make the starter motivate.
-
Moog, Monroe or KYB? Loyale Shocks
mikaleda replied to Subarocket's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Kyb is the best shock on the market -
That would be worse than having the mouse in the car.
-
Doubt that a liquid head gasket would work the way these gaskets blow. Sodium silicate might seal it for a little while and might not be too bad on the cooling system Caution! Look up how to use sodium silicate to seal a leak in your cooling system, its a prosses you can't just add it in Here's some info http://catalog.miniscience.com/Catalog/Sodium_Silicate/Default.html
-
Head gasket, positive. When my headgasket went out, my car ran so good and didn't smoke at all I swore up and down it had to be something eles. Do yourself a favor and buy a hydrocarbon test kit, It will test the coolant and tell proof positive if its a head gasket or not, its like $40 its totaltly worth the money Believe me in speaking from experience, I replaced the entire cooling system in my car before I figured it out.
-
What kit did you use to resurface the lights? Some headlight resurfacing kits don't work well. If the kit didn't have you sand the lens down then that is probably what the problem is. Now assuming the headlights are resurfaced properly. the next things to check are headlight adjustment, bulbs, then wiring or power source More than likely your problem is going to be adjustment or new bulbs
-
Empi went our of business last year, but they are still being made under USA axles I've still been buying empi old stock axles recently.I agree though empi or USA industry are great aftermarket axles
-
Okay just because the "auto parts store" told you the starter was good out of the car, doesn't mean your starter is good. 1.) Verify main positive power supply, and not just that it has voltage. 2.) Verify grounding 3.) If both of the latter is good then verify starter by jumping the trigger (the small wire) to the power supply (the big wire) 4.) If all of the above fail to make the starter operate, then you have a problem with either nutrel safety switch, ignition switch or power supply to the ignition circuit Those are the only things that will cause the starter failure in your car once you nail it down to one of these then we can move forward in diagnosis
-
A starter can pass a bench test but fail when under load, i'm willing to bet it's your starter contacts
