mikaleda

Are you sure its a 2.2l? I thought they stopped making the 2.2 in 99

Yes exactly its for a home heating system. I picked one up at the local hardware store brand new for $27. If anything it will filter better than the OEM filter since its designed to filter out anything big enough to clog the jets in an oil burning heater which is way smaller than something that's going to clog an oil cooler. And its slightly bigger filter than the OEM one

I used a home heating oil filter plumbed inline before the coole. The casing with filter was $27, not much more than the OEM filter and has more capacity but the best part is the refills are only $8. I had to run the cooler lines to the other side of the car so I had room for the filter but all in all it ended up making the filter a lot easier to service.I'm planning on taking some pictures of this system and posting them on the board so you can see where I put everything. Yes you can bypass the filter to see if that is your problem, but I wouldn't do that for long because it will clog the cooler even an after market cooler.

No but it may be a mixture of different problems

Yes the filter could be the problem, I just went through this on a 91 legacy wagon. It was exhibiting sihns of tourque bind and it ended up being the filter was clogged changed it out with my own system and now it works fine. I also put in an Extra oil cooler as well. A word to the wise use Subaru genuine filters only the after market filters suck

A Manuel has a different system, its always 50/50 but just not locked 4wd.To make a Manuel into a locked 4wd you would have to weld the center diff. Then it would bind if you drove on anything but mud or snow

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html This link explains about how to read the codes on your car It will also tell you about diagnostic mode and the connectors I was talking about

I wonder if the ecm is in test mode? It would make it make the relays cycle and that would explain the clicking noise. Look under the dash and see if you can fund the diagnostic plugs, they are green single prong conectors. Those connectors should be disconnected while driving.

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I would also check the IAC valve it might be sticking, causeing a vacuum leak. It would explain the idle and loss of power

I'd start by pulling the plugs and seeing whether they are fould or not. Also check the wear on the plug, plugs can tell you a lot about how the engine is running

Okay firstly we need to know if its a stick or an auto. Once we know this we need to determine if its a transmission issue or an engine issue. Also is there any lights coming on like ABS, BRAKE, AT TEMP, or CHECK ENGINE, that could point us to the problem. It also sounds like the problem happened immediately after the RHD to LHD swap, if so that might tell us something. I'm unfamiliar with that swap and would assume they would have had to swap out the dash for a LHD dash and since the ecu and TCU are located under the dash something could have happened then.

oh and alternator is still working flawlessly

okay i put some more money into this old subaru, i put new radius arm busings, and outer tierods in. then i had it alighned and now it doesnt pull so hard to the right and its not wearing the tires quite as bad. i am going to napa today to get new sway bar busings and then i found new control arm bushings on amazon and im thinking about buying them and trying it out, i have a couple control arms off my parts car i can practice on. i blew a coolant line on the way to work the other day, and of course it was in the worst spot possible so i had to drive it a little ways just to be able to get off the side of the road safely. it spiked the temp gauge, but since i always leave a half hour early i was able to let it cool of and pour more coolant in and get to work. the motor seems fine, but then the brakes went out on me, (i wish murphy would quit following me). i cant explain the brake failure, its like there's air in the system, but i havent opened the system in months. the only thing i can think might have happened is the master cylinder went out, but its not quite like a master going out, once you pump it up its solid, no pedal fade. of course i ripped a rear c.v. boot and so i temorarily have it wraped in cling wrap held on by zipties. i have foind two rear c.v.s but i just got to figure out a way of getting them. there is good news though i got the one axle nut that was seized off and got the hub off, a good 1/2 inch impact did the trick. im starting to get annoying elctrical issuse where my lights blink on and of randomly and make on coming cars think im flashing them and not to mention the times when i hit the dims and all my lights go out untill i hit the fuse box. also that the lower headlight fuse melted right out of the fuse box. i can hardly wait to get on of my other cars going so i can start working on this one more, its hard to work on them when your daily driving them.

yep, they called yesterday and told me that the relay was the culprit and now its working, thanks for the help even though i ended up not needing to fix it.

cool ill try the head light relay if it comes back, hopefully thats the poblem, a short would be really hard to find in this car

i had this 93 loyal wagon come in to work the other day and its got me stumped, the left headlight is dim on both high and low, their is no left tail light and the dash lights arn't working. i checked the head lights fuses and they were both good, so i checked voltage at both head light fuses, left had 2.5 volts both sides of fuse and the right had 12.5 volts. I unpluged the left head light fuse and it doesnt affect the head light, it stays on and stays dim, so i started checking the relays. I found one relay with 12.5 volts on one side and 2.5 volts on the other side and the relay was hot to the touch, so im fairly sure there is a short of some kind going on. what is stumping me is that the left head light stays light (dimly) even when the fuse for that head light is disconnected, and that none of the fuses are being blown. this car came in once before and the problem was there then but it would happen infrequintly, ocassionaly the dash lights would turn off and the left head light would dim, but tapping on the top of the dash would make the lights turn back on and the head light would be bright again. all sighns seem to say something is shorting out, possibly from the right head light to the left as well as a ground to hot. also it sounds as though the problem could be in the dash as well since tapping on the top of the dash would make it work again. \ my ideas are that there could be a problem in the supply to the fuse box or the fuse box it self. i did check the fusible links under the hood and found a solid 12.5 volts on both sides of the fusible links and nothing felt hot there im wanting to get as much info as i can together for the next time the car comes in so i can trouble shoot it in as short of a time as possible, because they tend to not want to leave their car for very long periods of time. i did sugest they leave it for a couple of days so we could have the time to properly trouble shoot it, but im planning on not having a whole lot of time just in case so can anyone give me some ideas of what i should be looking for to possibly find this short and get it fixed, im thinking first step would be to pull the fuse box and inspect it and make sure nothing is shorting out there on the supply side. i did visually trace as much wiring as i could under hood, but having a short amount of time and beaing an old ea82 there could be something i missed.

yep and the jb weld is working so good, im not too worried about replacing the part

kyb gr2s are great, i have a set in my 80 and my mitshubishi truck and they work great

i was thinking about timing as well, but i cant get it idling smooth enough to get a light on it to set it. ill try and get some pics up of the carb, but i broke my only camera so it might take a little while to get it up. ill keep updates posted

i just bought this truck (third blue car ive bought in a row) and it has a weber carb on it with a redline adapter, it looks alot like the webers for our subarus, but i dont know carbs to well and am fighting a couple issues with it. firstly it had a lot of vaccume leaks when the P.O. got it and they fixed them, but didn't readjust afterwards. so i fixed a couple more vaccum leaks and re adjusted the screw on the front of the carb (im unsure weather that is for the idle air or the fuel mixture) and since i couldn't find any sighns of a fuel air mixture (if that screw is the idle air like i thought) so thats all i did (by adjusting i mean i turned it down untill it stalled then backed it out a 1/4 turn) secondly when i got it the air filter was very dirty and it was deisling on me (i readjusted the screw in the front with a clean filter). i found that the bowl seemed to be overflowing into the intake and making it deisle on me, so i got some carb cleaner and cleaned it out. cleaning it out worked for a while, but it came back with a vengence (this time it dang near blew my muffler out from the backfire) so i put a can of berrymans b12 chem tool (carb cleaner, almost identical to seafoam) in the tank with 5 gallons of gas and ran it through. the problem stilll persisted so i bought a K&N cleaning kit and cleaned the filter, filled it with regular w/berrymans again and got some berrymans spray carb cleaner and cleaned it out yet again and it smoothed out quite a bit. thats everything i've done so far, but it still seems to be acting up, occasionaly it will stall when i let the clutch out (its only done this twice and just recently) mainlly its been deisling occasionally and if i turn it off for a few minuets and try to restart it acts like its flooded and i have to hold my foot to the floor as im cranking (clear flood prcedure) to get it to start. i know there a few people on here that know webers well and this site seems to get quite a bit more traffic than the mitsubushi or dodge d50 sites get and i would appreciate any help on this.

Nice that was the problem, I pulled it and found that where the cable goes in was striped, I'm jb welding it together now for a temporary fix then ill try and get a new one

I'm not sure if you were mentioning this for what I said, but the process only goes to the heater core wich is copper. It is very important to get all of it out though by flushing it several times with water

nice, thank you. i may do that if the cable doesnt fix the problem, ill find out tomorow, hopefully. not quite sure when ill get to this car since my step dads plow truck just lost the rear end and thats more of a priority than my mom having a speedomiter

im going to start with the cable, but i think that the speedo head is toast since it was working a little. the speedo doesnt work at all now i really doubt the speedo gear is stripped in the trans, thats really uncommon