mikaleda

The cores probably gunked up, try flushing it with CLR. There are a few videos of this on YouTube. There should be a bypass valve on the side of the heater core box and make sure that's moving I've had them come unhooked.

I've seen this a few times on the older subies, my mom fixed hers with cloths pins shoved in between the the trim piece and the broken peice to hold it against the contact. That's not the best permenant solution, but would work good for temporary

Okay this is strange one, my mom has this 91 legacy (2.2 auto) and the speedometer went out. It works up to about 20 mph and then drops off, the check engine lights will come on and comes up with a code 33 vehical speed sensor code. The speedometer is cable driven on this year (yes I visually checked this) and I assume that the VSS and the speedo going out are connected since they happened at the same time. What I don't get is I thought the cars with a cable driven speedo didn't have a VSS and even if they did I didn't think it would affect the speedo. I would appreciate some insight on this, I'm going to try and look this up on identifix tomorrow at work and see what I come up with, but I would still like to get a thread going.

Yes it sounds like the cable is getting gunked up somehow, a new cable or a little lube and work should fix it. Just to let you know the title of your thread should give us an idea of what's wrong like, stiking gas pedal or gas pedal sticky. something along those lines, it will get more views and more replies as well.

That may not be always true, it takes a lot of hydrolic pressure to release the clutch, not so much to push the pedal back. I have seen several slave cylinders go out with the same symptoms as this one and the pedal returned just fine

The slave sits on the trans and is what pushes the fork. The master bolts to the firewall and connects to the clutch pedal. The slave cylinders seem to go out more often than the master cylinders There should be a way of testing it, but I don't know how.

don't force it, see if you can pop the release with something thin from the outside. im not to sure of the desghin on that year, does it release from the inside or the outside, if its the release from the inside then you might have to have one person hold the release and another carefully pry on the door. i have seen them get sticky and not want to open before, you might want to try cleaning it a bit and lubing it up with some wd40

A bad master or slave cylinder, my bet is the slave. Before you start replacing parts though make sure you fluid level is up and there is no air in the system.

the smell is coming from the inside of the vehicle? are you using the fresh air or recirculated (max ac). if you are using fresh air, its possible the clutch is slipping and the smell is traveling into the fresh air intake. of course you should be able to smell that under the hood, but maybe it has to be running at a fast enough rpm to slip and make the smell? it seems strange that its linked to the ac compressor itself, does the burnt smell, smell electrical or does it smell like a burnt clutch (smells like burning hair to me)

just thought i would add the part number for old gen is 48539, rock auto doesn't have the old gen ones but amazon does. oh this part number is for the ea71 (1600) i dont know if its the same for the ea81 (1800) oh and this really should be a sticky

Relighting the cylinder heads is more likely to cause problems than solve them, once the head gaskets been crushed a certain way for hundreds of miles they don't like being recurshed

What kind of thermostat are you using? A cheap after market thermostat could be causing issues, even though its opening it may not be giving you enough flow to cool properly

Your probably not going to find a pic tutorial, it's a fairly simple conversion. If you get a conversion kit, it should give you instructions, maybe try YouTube all choke conversions are very similar.

No kidding, reman alt $100 new battery $120 labor $280? What did they do take three hours to get the job done.

First thing I would do is check for a short in that wire between the alt and the fusible link box. Alternator instal on these are really simple and doesn't take much for tools just take a look at it and you'll figure it out. Reman alts should be fine just make sure they have a good warranty on them. Also check with the shop that installed the alt, they might be able to get you another alt installed I the fault wasn't external from the alt. The first step should be to determine why that wire melted in the first place, and weather it was the alt or something else causing a high drain. You don't want to put more money into a new alt and have it happen again because something else is wrong. Also looks like the where the wire connects Is fine the plastic peice that is shown in the pic connected to the wire is part of the alt

Or covert to Manuel choke, simpler and way less hassle afterwards. Also to adjust, loosen the three retaing screws and turn until you see the choke plate close almost all the way. Make sure once it warms up that its opening all the way as well, it may take some tinkering to get it right

Lol your right, I didn't even think about that.

Agreed, buy a new pump, but why not keep your old pump and take it apart and see what happened. You may just end up being able to fix it and keep it as a back up.

There are a couple ways to search, the built in function and through google. I think google works better, but you also have to try more than two sets of keywords. For example try fuel pump, low fuel pressure, pump I know it can be frustrating, but there is info out there it may just be hard to find. Sometimes you just have to take a chance and try fixing it

yes i have seen several threads wher people have talked about taking them apart and cleaning them. search function will give you a good idea on your fuel system the pumps are really simple and rarely fail it might just be clogged with gunk. if the pump isn't working with 12 volts going directly to it then try repairing it, you wont be any worse of then you are now

I put a universal kit on my hitachi. It took a little modification but nothing to hard, it's worth it to get rid of that stupid electric choke hitachi uses that almost never works right.

Actually the ea71 was used in a lot models and years check out this thread for more info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/138256-ea71-with-hlas-and-points/ Also there are two block styles for the ea71 as gloyal mentioned the wide case could be matted to an ea81 dual range but a regular ea71 couldn't be because of the location of the starter

All your wiring should go through some sort of fuse for safety.

Wow I'm sorry to here your bad luck it sounds like they don't want to honor their warranty.

A search will give you this info, but since I'm here anyway ill give it to you The engine code is stamped into the block on the passenger side front of engine. It might be covered with grease so it might take a little cleaning to find it. The engine code should say either ea81 or ea82 on your car it might even say ea71 but I doubt it. More than likely you have an ea82 and the parts store is giving you ea81 parts Also if it has a timing belt it's an ea82 if not its an ea81. There is also two different brands of distributor so make sure you know what brand yours is. To get the right parts for an ea81 order parts for a 84 1800 for an ea82 order parts for a 88 1800, parts store computers are worthless sometimes.