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mikaleda

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Everything posted by mikaleda

  1. mikaleda
    If they are still selling off the old stock I'd grab an empi I put a set in the front of bluebaroo and ive put 10k+ hard miles on them with no issues at all.
  2. mikaleda
    I would buy that transmission right now if I had the money. I've always wanted a 4.11 dual range for my bluebaroo.
  3. mikaleda
    http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/23909-08-o-b-radio-hvac-control-lighting-prob.html#/forumsite/20514/topics/23909?page=1 This might help
  4. mikaleda
    I've heard of a few complaints in the outback forums about the circuit board on the back of the radio desoldering the pins. Do you have the HVAC/radio that are built together?
  5. mikaleda
    From the FAQ sticky at the beging of this forum first page. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
  6. mikaleda
    Personally I would pull the battery stick it on the charger, that's the only way to get a full charge on your battery without running the car for hours. As cougar said disconnect the damaged doors door ajar indicator. It should be somewhere along the door jamb, it is a black button like thing protruding from the door jamb. Disconnect ones side and tape it up so it doesn't ground out and cause the light to come back on. Reinstall the battery and give it a couple days and try starting it to see if it solved your problem. If the car is going to sit for a while its always a good idea to disconnect the negative side of the battery.
  7. mikaleda
    Personally I would pass on that motor. Are you set on putting another ej25D in or do you want to put a bit more work in and have a little less powerful but way more reliable motor? You might want to look into doing a 2.2 swap. As said above the EJ25D has a internal leaking head gasket so you won't be able to visually inspect it. If your set on grabbing a junkyard 2.5 then you may want to spend the time and money and throw the updated head gaskets in before you install it.
  8. mikaleda
    PCV hose goes there, IIRC
  9. mikaleda
    If they are bad enough to cause missfires and the problems your having a compression test should tell you
  10. mikaleda
    These cars are sensitive to wires so if your not using really good wires they could still be the problem.
  11. mikaleda
    Change you spark plug wires with good quality wires ngk or beldin lifetime.
  12. mikaleda
    The rear is already disengaged when the engine is off since hydraulic pressure is what actuates the center diff clutches IIRC. The problem is towing an auto on the ground even with just the rear wheels on the ground will continue to turn parts that are always engaged with no fluid flow to lubricate anything. Really easy way to burn up your transmission. So no you don't want to tow auto awd on a dolly without disconnecting the driveshaft to the rear end.
  13. mikaleda
    Check you grounds and power to the ecu.
  14. mikaleda
    I have never worried about priming used motors, usually the only time you need to prime the oil system is on a rebuilt motor that's never had oil on the bearings. Personally I would get it in, fill the filter and motor with oil then start it and make sure the oil light turns of fairly quickly 30-40 seconds is the longest it should take. If you feel like pulling the plugs and disconnecting the injectors and ignitor then do it, it certainly doesn't hurt to be cautious.
  15. mikaleda
    Going to Manuel trans will give your more performance, but they aren't nearly as reliable as the autos. Male sure you check the input shaft bearing for play before purchasing. They typically last around 200k before they start to get sloppy. I've seen the autos go 400,000 when taken care of. It sounds like you have a good start for a very reliable car. 95 is non interference and obd2 IIRC so you have the perfect year.
  16. mikaleda
    I'd call it the fender support. Idk what its supposed to be called though.
  17. mikaleda
    either wire by it self will run the fan at low speed, I haven't found any difference in which one to use. Of course I'm wiring them in to my 3/4 ton Chevy so I'm using their max potential.
  18. mikaleda
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/15125765?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228009913591&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=77517591648&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=107413162608&veh=sem
  19. mikaleda
    Valvaline max life is what I was recomened by a few members on here and I went from 2 quarts of consumption to 1/2 quart consumption in 3000 miles. I run 5w-30.
  20. mikaleda
    That's interesting, definatly something worth looking into. First time I've heard of this problem.
  21. mikaleda
    Nope they are different
  22. mikaleda
    I use the wd40 specialist silicone for lubricating door locks mainly. Seems to work fairly well.
  23. mikaleda
    That figures must be the only part I didn't save.
  24. mikaleda
    I'm fairly sure I have one, can you post a pic? I have to find it in my box o parts.
  25. mikaleda
    Length is the only way I know of to tell the difference between models. They do have part #'s but I'm not sure of they will help or not.
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