mikaleda

Make sure the check valve is going the right way, the arrow should be pointed towards the intake IIRC I don't know about subaru power brakes but in other cars a bad booster would tend to make your brakes harder to push not sloppier, it sounds to me like the MC is failing but it doesn't explain why it starts working when your Rpms come up, that makes it seem like a bad booster.

The code below ea71 is 316653 I don't know if that's the engine serial number, but its the only one I could find.

I don't think the tires will affect the c.v.'s you just don't want them rubbing on the spring perch

I just got around to looking at my new engine trans for my 80, I've got it pulled and I've started cleaning it up a bit and checking it out. I know for a fact all 80's subarus had electronic ignition, but this one has a dusty with points, it also says "do not adjust valve clearance" on the valve covers, but it has a typical 80 intake and carb. I'm just curious to what is year this block might be? I think the points disty may have been because of the original disty failing And maybe its a newer engine that they put the 80 intake on? I'm just curious to if they even made a HLA ea71? This came out of an 80 hatch 4wd Is it possible this is a JDM motor? This engine is identical to my original in my 80 other than the disty and the valve covers.

What year model trans do you have? I know 3.5k is normal at 60 in a 4speed with 3.9 gear ratio Also an actual legal highway speed limit rpm would probably get more people's attention.

You said that the rotor pointed to the #1 spark plug when you had compression so I would think that capn_r got it right, for some reason someone could have put an ea82 flywheel in it. Edit: I would check compression on number two cylinder.

Any metal on metal sounds coming from the brakes means you should jack the car up and do an inspection. First how worn are your pads? Second is there any debries stuck in the brakes, and third if you have brake drums (I'm unsure about wether that was even an option on this car) springs or metal parts didn't come apart.

Ya I think he did too, I was just unsure of what you were saying

So your saying you getting comperssion on #1 cylinder And you can't see the marks at all, but when you can see the rotor pointing at #1 the marks are visible? The timing should be set a 8degrees BTDC or before top dead center, so at 8 degree mark the rotor should be pointing to the #1 wire and you should be starting the compression stroke just before that lines up IIRC

Or you could use a clear hose going into a bottle with clean brake fluid so that it can't suck up air only clean brake fluid, just make sure there is no air in the hose, just brake fluid.Like a one man bleeding system.

Nope it's a stick with an open diff, brake drag on the left makes my right tire spin no matter what I do. I almost got stuck in a mud pit near me cause of this. Have fun, wish I could make it, but i can't.

I still haven't got my brake drag fixed, it totaly makes it worthless for off roading since the brake drag makes just one of my front tires to spin no matter what I do. I still need to put my new engine and trans in too

funny how that stuff works out isn't it. Yes I agree, the steering is very important and I would rather have them to hard to get off than to easy. That's one thing that I don't skimp on is stering components, I have fixed a few cars that have gone in the ditch because the owner waited to long to change his tie- rod ends, it ends up costing a lot more since usually everything is bent and needs to replaced afterwards.

Sure, that should be interesting.

Ya if the wire from the key to engage the cyloniod was stuck on it should make the starter stay engaged, I think your problem will end up being the old cylinoid.

Do you have auto seat belts? I think I read that the auto seat belt control box in the loyals are in that area.

Holy cow! I've never heard of that happening before, at least it was an easy diagnosis. Since the starter is completely separate system from the rest of the car, other than the power from the key, I would say no this is probably all to do with the starter. Unless of course the wire from the key is keeping the cyloniod Engaged.

Drive lines that need balancing have usually been cut, re welded. The screw and hosing on a worm clamp weigh almost nothing and wouldn't throw the balance off that much compared to an unbalanced driveline.

+1 good idea if its the crank that is scratched.

Yep I would say you probably have bad head light relays.

I would polish the surface with a fine grit sand paper so there are no sharp spots. I can't tell from the pic wether you scratched the crank or the wall that holds the seal, if its the wall that hold the seal I would just polish it and reinstall the seal

Ya the only way I know of frying the rings in any motor by "warming it up wrong" would be to overheat it. He might mean he did something wrong during the initial warm up, could be he forgot to put oil in it or maybe didn't follow the torque sequence correctly and tried monkying with it after it was warmed up? I would look for sighns of overheating and do a compression check and see what's going on. I would go in thinking that the motor is probably not worth much if anything.

Glad to here you got your head gasket problem fixed, hopefully it will be a good subie for years to come.

AAA is great, my dad has them and so does my stepmom, they always come and they have nice drivers usually.

Are you getting a knock sensor code? If you are I would think its probably a bad wire to the sensor or maybe a dirty connection.