mikaleda

i would start by confirming the timing belts are intact, next would be to make sure they aren't missing teeth and make sure they haven't slipped timing. since it has sat a while an inspection of the belts is a good idea anyway.

good idea

Input shaft bearings are a common failure on these 5mt. There is a thread in here where GD mentions a turbo 5mt bearing is a better replacement since it has nine ball bearings instead of five. Might be worth fixing your trans and make it better than it was.

Done, I don't have a lift, want a lift, or need a lift. I'd rather have a nice set of floor jacks and jack stands or a pit.

There should be a few threads in here about using sealed bearings you can get on ebay for a couple bucks a peice. Try searching a little, if the search function fails to give you results that you want try using google site specific search like your keywords then link:ultimatesubaru.org. Also this belongs in the old gen section, not historic section. Old gen forum gets more views.

I'm running an 1800 brat muffler on my 1600, talk about quiet I would say if your going do cheap a glass pack off the resonater would make it sound cool, but it'll be loud, if you want quiet I would get one from napa order it by size and shape, that saved me $$$ on my sameri.

My 80 did this when I first got it, it would also bang when backing up. It turned out to be a stripped hub.

Stant is a brand of thermostats, their cheap ones suck, like Shawn mentioned, but they have a new line of EXact stats that are made to OEM specs.

Mine is a Manuel steering rack also. I know what you mean about GM's overly complex steering columns, I did one in my dads 93 blazer s10 4.3l there is no room to unbolt the steering column from the ujoint! And under the dash was a nightmare, tons of wires and stuff to unplug and plug back in (not to mention that it was an auto ) this is why I sold my 2wd 67 Chevy and got a subaru the pluses 4wd, it got better milage, and it was just as easy to fix, but parts costs more though.

Well I'm glad the steering rack is easy to pull, cause I got to pull them again. My old rack has brand new inner tie-rods and boots, the boot that I thought was torn had just slipped off. My old rack was definatly bad, I found aome copper peices in one of the boots and the rack was about to fall apart. Mu new one has bad inner tie/rods So I'm thinking in going to throw some crappy tires up front and drive it this way for now, then later on put the new inner tie-rods, boots, outer tie-rods, And do an alinment, that should fix my tire wear problems. I'm still going to change the passenger side knuckle since I think it's cracked. Thank you for the idea Tsuru I need to bleed my brakes that very well could be the problem, I'll be working on that today hopefully my knuckle, c.v., strut top will go okay. I also fixed my wiper squirters yesterday, they were all gummed up, but now they squirt halfway up the windshield!

Like I said the pump problems and the carb problems are probably connected, you might not be getting enough fuel pressure to get to the top end.

Hand tight plus a quarter turn, is what I torque knock sensors to. No gasket under the knock sensor that will cause problems since the - negative side is conects through the block. Make sure the sensor has a good clean connection to the block and is sitting flat. Also what code are you getting?

T-stat removal is fairly simple, the hardest part is working around the hitachi emissions b.s., the coolant temp sensor is very easy just a removal of the wire and the right size socket. Also it's a good Idea to get o.e.m or Stant exactstat, there are after markets that work, but they tend to be problematic.

Yes I agree, you just have to make sure that the dc is blocked in the ac mode. I like the idea of the capacitor in series with the meter probe, do you know where someone could get such a capacitor? I will be investing in a better multimeter soon, but it would be nice to have this in my box of tricks

I would say the problems are all pointing to a restriction, the problems with acceleration and other are probably because of lack of fuel, I would say all things are pointing to a bad evaporation system, running without the cap or with it loose will tell us a whole lot.

Thank you Tsuru, your right I just about know this car inside and out now. Update: I got my new steering rack in today, it was surprisingly easy, it took about an hour. It feels like the inner tie rod on the drivers side has a little play, but I think it will be fine for the time being. It's definatly an improvement of the first one I had in there. Tomorrow I will start working on the passenger side knuckle, I'm thinking I'm going to replace the knuckle, c.v. And strut top. That should fix most of the problems. Then after that I will figure out why the drivers side brake is sticking and try and fix that, then the front end work will be done (hopefully) and it will be on to the engine trans swap. I've got to find a hoist to do the engine/trans swap yet, so that is still going to be a little ways in the future, but not to far! I've got the new gear oil and most the tools I will need, I just need to look up some info about removal of the engine trans at the same time.

Lol, they are very popular up here in the priest lake area.

Charcoal canister should be in the drivers side fender well, but you should be able to see it quite easily, it is a black canister with three vaccume lines going to it. Yours might not have one I'm unsure of the years they are used in. The fuel pumps burning out is mysterious, but if their getting hot that would suggest a blockage somewhere or the tank is unable to vent properly

Just thought I would add a cheap multi meter won't work, he will need one that blocks dc current in ac mode or it will give false ac readings.

The vent problem could be causing the fuel pump failure and the carb problems both, try loosing the cap and running it and see what's happening. These hitachies have a tendancy to warp over time and creat vaccume leaked even with new gaskets. I know you probably don't want to here this, but a webber would probably fix all your problems, get a vented tank cap and delete the charcoal canister and run a webber you would probably find your problems fixed. Just my $0.02

I'll take a look in those areas and start a new thread on the subject if I'm still having problems, thanks Ivan.

Weird I took a look and it looks like they don't sell the pump anymore. I guess the next best thing would be to go to the junk yard and grab a pump. Their easy to rebuild and it shouldn't cost too much with a junk yard oil pump and rebuild.

Renix is the system pre OBDI on the early fuel injected 4.0l AMC jeeps, I'm trying to figure out why the fuel injectors cut out randomly, I'm just having a hard time finding people that know about the renix system. I'll start a new thread and let the original subject continue. Sorry o.p. for the hijack.

Hey Ivan, do you know anything about the renix systems jeeps? Sorry for the hijack o.p.

I think differant areas stock differant sizes, in my area you can only get 175-70-r13 around here and your lucky if they have them in stock.