mikaleda

I've done it without a pickle fork, but its not a bad idea to have one handy. Heat is a really good idea, pb blaster is great in my opinion because it won't evaporate like some other penatrants. Another thing I tend to do on really stubborn ball joints is pull the castle nut off and go for a short romp around the block of corse I live on one of the worst roads on north Idaho and the potholes are plenty big enough to break the ball joint loose

Okay I got the engine/trans out of the hatch, I got it out by myself through the bottom, not fun. Now it's sitting on the ground looking at me like "so what are you going to do now?". Now I got to find a place to put it until I am ready to do the swap if I can even move it myself I know I can pick up a 4wd subie trans easily enough and I can pick up an ea71 engine easy enough but you put the two together, it gets heavy

I have seen mentions of people doing a 5 speed swap in the older cars, but on the newer ones the autos are usually stronger. Wow that was painfull to type but I don't care what anyone says I love my 5speed and would not trade it for any auto even though they have known problems with the input bearing. On another note, I would listen to Ivan, he seems to be very knowledgable about the 4eats in my opinion.

Oh and in north Idaho your ac is 4x60 four windows down going 60 mph

Sounds to me like your talking rally car in wich case everything you mention would be better, but for me the brakes arn't a big deal, I'm into mudding, the mud will stop you faster than your brakes can as for the tortion bar suspension, its not great for handling but is great for mudding because there is no lower control arm to get caught on stuff so it is better for my purposes then the newer style suspension. As for why I don't like the ej swap, as I said before I love the older cars because of simplicity the only thing electronic I want on my car is my distributor, I can work with less power. I used to take my Suzuki 1.3l stock running 235-75-r15's through mud holes that people with their v8's wouldn't go near, it's all about weight and knowing how to drive your car, I was always told suzukies are easy to flip, but I never had a problem cause I knew what I was doing, not that I never got it two wheels though Oh and with the right gearing you'll get the power you need out of any size engine, not good for rallying, but good for mudding

I now have a new drivers side seat and a new steering wheel. I don't mind that the steering wheel doesn't match it's just nice to have one that I don't have to keep taped up. I got a few things done on the hatch today, I just finished pulling the steering rack, this ones definatly in better shape than mine, I'm thinking about rebooting it while I've got it off. I've started pulling the dash and new control valve seems to be intact, hopefully it works, I'm sure it will. I put the headers back on and ran the engine for a minuet just long enogh for it to warm up a bit and see how it sounds, oil light went off immediately the engine idles smoth and doesn't make the racket that my old engine does, did a couple high Rpms and it responded nicely with a little popping and spluttering on the way back down, nothing unusuall since it doesn't have anything pay the cat hooked up. I drained the antifreeze and pulled the radiator, it looks like most the work has already been done for me, the trans is still connected to the motor but everything else is disconnected. I just have to disconnect the coil and the fuel line to the carb and a couple miscellaneous things and the motor/trans will be ready to be pulled and put in my gl! Lucky for my gl I got this hatch, it definatly wouldn't be very good off other wise, it might have become the parts car lol I can hardly wait to get the rust fixed in the floor boards and get the engine/trans in it and drive it!

I just wired mine to a switch and then spliced the power from the fuel pump fuse. I'm planning on doing what gd suggested and running the ground to an oil pressure sender. As for replacing the relay, it's not acctually a relay, I took mine apart and tried fixing it, but its a circuit bord with a three prong connection. Once their gone their gone as far as I can tell.

Subarus don't have actuating hubs or diff the whole action takes place in the trans, but the rear wheels shouldn't get power when out of 4wd. Just see if you can spin your front tire without the backs moving, get in some wet grass or loose gravel and romp on the throttle

I would check connections at the back of the radio and the speaker, very common to see a wire come loose and have a speaker that goes in and out.

Be generouse with penetrating oil and a BFH and a pickle fork are the best way to get them out in my opinion, get the joint loose from the control arm before you take it loose from the knuckle, that will make it a little easier.

that would explain the hard starting and might have been the cause of the fuel pump failures but i'm thinking this must have only been happening while it sits or i would think you would have noticed mpg's going down. another possibilty is what vwbrat mentioned the fuel pick up in the tank might have a crack in it, unfortunately the only way i know to diagnose that is to pull the tank and inspect. hopefully your issue is found and you don't loose anymore pumps, but if you loose another pump i would pull the tank and check out the pickup inside the tank. if that checks out i would start suspecting either 1. a bad brand of fuel pumps or 2. carb problems, the draining of the bowl and unchanged mileage would suggest to me a bad brand of fuel pump.

Ya I was surprised how nice it was, I would try and fix it up a little and make a little offroader with it, but I'm not allowed to keep it. I hate scraping one of these older subies, but at least the parts are going to a good cause.

Acctually it does have headers their just not installed.

Okay here's a pic of my new parts car, I started it up and it runs, but since it doesn't even have headers I didn't let it run long. I'm going to put it in my car and I'm going to change the distributor so It matches my coil and so that I have electronic ignition, I hate points.

The only way i know is to acctually pull it and inspect the bushing.

I wouldn't worry about it just turn the headlights off when the cars warming up, I had a 67 Chevy once that had a pully so worn out that every time you floored it the belt would SCREAM like mad until you let off the gas, I just got used to it my step dads been running his Brighton like this for well over a year and never had a problem, we even bought an expensive belt from napa and it didn't change.

I love my new drivers seat what a score, I also scored another set of thirteens and a set of fourteen steel rims, new engine looks clean and new trans seems to be in good shape. I've already started swapping parts, I now have a drivers side mirror again and a new heater with control valve I can hardly wait to start working on my wagon. I'm going to start up the new motor tomorrow if a get a chance and check it out, get it ready to swap in. Weird thing about this motor is it looks like a Hal block but an 80 manifold with a seventys coil and distributor I'll look more into it tomorrow

Yay, I got my parts car, it has an ea71 with Hla's and a good single range trans, it even has nice drivers side seat! What a score best $100 I've ever spent. And with that I'm going to bed because I smashed my wrist with a 2x10 loading it on the trailer. I'll get some pics in the morning.

Just because it works doesn't mean it's right, like I said I would leave it for a last resort.

Newer subarus to me are over complicated, my mud rigs require two major things, they have to be simple for ease of repair, and they don't necessarily need to be powerful, but they do need to be light. This coupled with the torsion bar rear suspension, that is what makes the old gen subarus my first choice in off road rigs.

Yep, I live about 80 miles from sandpoint, I go there every once in a while. You should see what they replaced Dover bridge with, instead of that p.o.s rusted out two lane bridge they built a four lane bridge that bypasses Dover completely and put in an over pass going into ponderay. It sure makes going into sandpoint easier now.

Sandy? I'm not sure, I'm about 50 miles from the canadian border as the crow flies.

Or you could check the sticker on the rear end, even the most beat up ones usually still have the sticker on the diff

Yep no problem I hope you found your problem. I know I just replaced a fuel pump in a Chevy truck that had a bad ground and Burnt the pump up in six months, but that wash TBI a 55 psi pump not a 2-3 psi pump.

Oh and dirty or clogged fuel filter is another possibility.