mikaleda

IMHO I would say its worth rebuilding the hitachi since you don't want to go the weber route. It sounds like an internal problem in the carb somewhere, maybe sticky fuel pump or partially clogged jet.

The TB could possibly have slipped a tooth so that might be something to check. Tip on TB timing don't go by the arrows, never the arrows.

Fusible link and under hood fuses are the first things I would check, then I would check ECM fuse in the interior fuse box if yours has it. If that fails I would have the codes scanned and see if there's anything there, and if all that fails, then you start verifying what's not there that should be, there are three thing an engine needs to fire compression, fuel, and spark.

Hydraulic lash adjusters were used between 85-95 I believe, I might be off a year or so, but basically they changed everything in 96/97 OBDII, interferance motors, and solid adjusters. Also I think that some autos had HLA before 85.

A little off topic, but I agree with you gizmonix, I personally think that understanding how your car works helps you drive it better. I think they shold make knowing how to check your brake fluid, oil, and antifreeze part of the test to get your drivers license.

Cool, glad you got it working.

Yep my multimeter is always being used on something or other and you can get a nice digital one for a decent price through harbor freight.

I'm not sure but looks like it goes to the key chime, so probably not.

Get a cheap digital multimeter, to test for draw and disconnect the memory side of your radio and pull the ECM fuse what ever is left is your drain your experiencing. Pull fuses until it drops once it drops the area that fuse supplies power too is where your drain is, it very well could be your alt. also I second third and fourth Eric the car guy videos.

You should read this. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

I would start by checking for codes. coolant temp sensor, iac, vaccume leaks, and sticking or improperly adjusted throttle cable are possible causes.

Rockauto.com under 95 legacy 2.2 denso same part number with a discount code from retailmenot.com 5% off 53.29 with shipping, shipping is set to my location and its $3.14 it might be more for you.

It might be dirty, wich if it were to get stuck open would cause symptoms of a vaccume leak.

the way i mentioned runs the power throught the stock wiring so everything is fused and wired correctly using the stock realy and the fan will not turn on with the key off. its the easiest and best way, no need for heavy switches or extra wires. this is how the fan on my 80 is running, i've never had a problem. the thermo switch on the radiator is just the ground to the relay that when it heats up creates a connection to ground. an even simpler way to do this would be to run a splice off of the negative on the coil side of the fan realy to a switch in the dash and back to chassis ground no need to run any wires through the fire wall and any switch will work since it is a very small draw.

it's hard to tell by the pics but it looks like either the vaccume booster hose or the pcv system hose, im leaning to the latter, but it looks like its blocked so i wouldn't think thats whats causing your bad milage.

Removing the rad would probably help a lot, try that first and go from there.

The fan has a seperate thermo switch.

First thing I would do is pull the wire of the temp sensor for the fan (it is on the radiator) and take it and ground it. If the fan turns on that means bad temp sender. If it doesn't turn on then you should pull the fan and run a ground to the metal outside of the fan And power to one of the wires at the plug (I can't remember wich) and it should turn on, if not its probably the relay (that's located unde the dash on the firewall. if you want to wire it to a switch the easiest way is to take the wire to the temp sender and splice a wire to your switch than a ground.

Oh ya I forgot about the stick being differant on these.

Some car manufacturers put them on there to keep electrolysis from building up, from what I understand, keeping it from eating the radiator up or clogging it. I really don't see how it could hurt to put one on it, it's just another step when pulling the rad and how often do you do that?

My first guess would be a broken shifting fork, or something broke and is jamming the shifting fork keeping it from moving. First thing would do is pull the stick and see if you can see what the problem is. Just my $0.02

Wouldn't driving around with just one axel make a lot of excess wear in the spider gears (the gears that control which tire is spinning). I know a posi or welded diff wouldn't care.

IMHO If you want to drive it without the axel you need to do both sides, take the axle out of the other side and leave the cup on the wheel side to hold the drum and bearing together and don't shift into 4wd. I don't know how safe this would be but the cup is really the only thing holding it together since the axle slides freely back and forth normally.

It's probably just stuck from not being moved for a long time, the first thing I would do is start soaking it in p.b. blaster and try loosing it instead if tightening it, just to break it loose. Carefull how high you jack it up, the higher you go the faster the rear axles are going to wear.

kyb's are good in my experiance, wagons are differant than sedans i beleive, and for the beffier springs you might want to look at some of loyal2.7's write ups he has done alot of stuff like that, assuming you have an ea82 design. Edit; I just came accross this in the usrm http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/106807-improved-shock-absorbers-and-spring-coils-on-loyales/ It's for loyals, but a loyal and gl have a lot of similarities.