mikaleda

i looked up the just the valves i would need and i can get both for $32, so with pipe and threaded connectors it would cost around $40 i think. that's not to bad but i'm going to see if i can make it just a little cheaper with the same quality parts, BTW the valves are bronze ball valves rated for 500 degrees and 400psi, i wanted overkill.

yes this is for my 80

okay so i've been doing a little searching and i think i know what i want to do. firstly i'm going to get some copper tubing to make an H, on the inlet side of the H i will hopefully have a three way ball valve for selecting weather the water runs through the heater core or the bypass. next i need a way of shutting off the outlet side of the heater core so that it doesn't form a "drip leg" that could catch sediment in the cooling system and inevitably clog my heater core. i am thinking about what kind of valve to use on that, i would like a cable operated one so that i could connect it to the old heater control cable (if they didn't rip it out with the old control valve). if i was able to do that it would be as simple as turning the knob to cold air and reaching down and turning the three way ball valve and if its done right it should last longer than the car. looking up what it will cost now, finding a used 1/2 three way ball valve that is in good shape might be the only way to make this feasible, but i'm not positive that i cant find a new one for a decent price.

i had the same problem on my 80, so i replaced them with #4 gauge welding leads, solid copper it solved alot of problems.

monstaru, i checked out thesamba.com and thats exactly what i was looking for, i think i lucked out this squareback looks to be in good shape compared to the others listed on there. this defiantly helped me come up with a price, thank you!

thesamba.com you mean? samba.com is an Arabic website i hope its not samba.com because i cant read Arabic

i agree you need a BFH, i have done the method that 987687 suggested, it ussually works well. there are alos the pinch type ball joint remover, you can get those at harbor freight fairly cheap and they sound like they work well on stubborn tyrod ends and they wont rip the boot.

cool i will check them out.

IMHO To me it would be worth the cost of the new head gasket just to be sure.

Cool thanks for sharing, the way that valve looks, maybe I'm wrong and one side can be shutoff without overheating the engine. Does anyone know more about these heaters?

Okay so now that summer is fast aproching up here I want to be able to shut my heater core off without having to splice the lines together. I did a little reasearch and it sounds like I can't just shut one side off like on a Chevy, I'm going to actually need to be able to bypass the heater core when I shut it off so that it won't over heat the car. I already know one thing, im not spending $140 for a new oem valve. I could go to a junk yard and pull one off that I have no clue about and may or may not work, or I could make my own. I would like to make my own but I'm not quite sure how. my idea was a two valve situation, one for the intake side of the heater core and the other for the bypass pipe. So that when I don't need the heater I could reach down and close the inlet and open the bypass pipe. Hopefully the price would be closer to twenty bucks instead of 140 for the new valve. Another option might be a three way ball valve on the inlet side and make one off position open the inlet hose to the bypass pipe and close the heater core inlet, and the other would close the bypass and open the heater core inlet, that would of course cost more around $50-$60. What do you guys think?

I was just wondering if there are any V.W. fans in this forum and if anyone knows any good V.W. forums. I know a guy that has a 60's v.w. square back wagon that is in good shape that needs some body work soon (before it rots out). I believe it's a 67 or 68. From what I understand it hasn't been driven since 97 but is still in good shape. I made a deal with him to try and sell it, hopefully to someone that would take care of it and restore it. If there is any interest I will post some pics of it up in the next couple weeks.

Cool that might be a good thing to try.

Ya I've tried tightening it a little to break it loose, it wouldn't move. I even got it as hot as I could with my p.o.s torch and tried, but I got nothing. My last resort is taking it down to the neighbor that has cutting torches and have him heat it up red hot and try and break it loose while its still hot.

That makes sense they probably put some of that k-seal in it just to sell it, some people just have no scruples. Don't worry they will get theirs someday.

Man that sucks, I hate to say it, it sounds like a head gasket. They do make a fool proof test, it costs fifty bucks, but it will tell you if it is a head gasket or not. It's called block check and its a test kit that will test for hydro carbons in the coolant. If your cars anything like mine was when it went, it would fill up the reservoir with water and no bubbles at first but after running it a minuet they start coming out.

Update; I got the P.S. wheel bearing in and it seems to be doing better, but I could not get the D.S. axel nut off. Damn thing is seized on there so bad I was afraid I was going to break the 3/4 inch breaker bar I borrowed, I had a 4 foot cheater on it, jumping on it (I weigh 260 lbs) and it wouldn't budge at all.

Yep that is part off wiring diagnostics I have seen ground wires that looked perfectly good but had a line of corrosion right down the middle causing all sorts of problems. A set of jumpers can be a handy diagnosis tool.

I would say it has to do with that relay looking thing that you found unplugged, it does mention lights on the side

Not much without damaging the strut cartridge. Why does it need modding? If you need another set of adjustable struts, I have a set that needs cartridges but are otherwise in good shape.

Fuel filter first

It's all good, I was grumpy too from trying to do the rear wheel bearings on my gl This isn't the chilitons you buy at a parts store this is an import car repair Manuel it has all import cars 80-87. Yes I know typically chilitons Manuel's will leave things out but, this is one of the better ones. I think that the vaccumme actuators main function is to change from fresh air to recirculating, the 2nd gen brats may have something differant.

I live close enough to visit Spokane once in a while does that count?

Any alt is going to need power going to the feild wire, unless you have a self igniting voltage regulator in it. The white wire with a red chase is the charge light wire on externally regulated subies, I know this because I had to tie into it on mine when I wired the alt into my gl to get it to charge.

Well my shop Manuel disagrees with you, you may still be correct but, this is out of 1980-1987 chilitons shop Manuel under subaru all models gl, dl, brat ,xt ect. Just sayin.