mikaleda

Yikes! i can see why you want to wire another radio inline, that looks like a pain. i did a little forum searching and there is another option for wiring two radios together, it sounds like diodes don't work well. there was a few people that used DPDT relays or switches but, there were people that used diodes and it seemed to work as well. i'm not quite sure how they wired the relays but it sounds like only the positive side needs to be interrupted on the radio that's not being used.

interesting but, i'm not sure i understand. what do you mean by lay down the radio part of the board?

maybe a one way diode like those solar pathway lights use to keep the solar panel from discharging the battery, you could solder one inline on each speaker wire on both the radios before you splice the speaker wires together, that would keep power from backfeeding into the radio your not using.

hmmm... well if the battery light is turning on with the ignition on than your problems down the line somewhere. there are a couple possibility's if the light is turning off when the engine is running than i would run a jumper between the batt post and batt positive and see if that makes the output better. you could check for ac ripple but, that has to do with the alternator itself so that wouldnt have followed with new alts.

picture update undercarriage i just found this today as i was breaking loose the bolts on the rear end to do the bearings (which i successfully did) it doesn't seem to make my tire sit funny but, i'm afraid to try and straighten it out in case i can't get the bolt holes lined up again.

wow you sure find deals on cars! that brat looks like its in better shape than my wagon was when i got it and i paid $300 in trade

i just reread your other post, do you mean the charge light only comes on when the engine is running?

87 has internal regulator but, the resistor is part of the charge light setup, but if you are seeing the light one before you start it and the it turns off when your running your problem would be in either the sense wire, or the main charge lead.

i would say if he's not seeing the bulb light up than that would be a good place to start, if the bulb is not burned out then he is probably not getting power to the "feild current" wire on his alt. it could be the resistor also. Question for the op, when you turn your key to on do you see the battery light light up?

87 is internally regulated, batt bulb is in the dash right above the voltage gauge and its a good place to start.

grounding the wire to the gauge should make the gauge peg but, be careful doing this you could possibly bend the spring in the gauge and make it read wrong. your problem sounds like a twenty year old wire that is causing too much resistance and not letting the gauge work properly. the next thing to do would be trouble shoot the gauge itself, what i do is run a new wire from the sending unit side of the gauge to the closest ground. i use the same gauge wire and close to the same length so that i don't bend the spring but even then don't hold it to straight ground for to long a quick touch will tell you if its working or not, it should peg quickly. if it doesn't its probably the gauge.

If the iac is open at mid range it would be like having a vacuum leak. The iac should only be open at idle

I bought a Stant for my legacy, it was good quality. It looked exactly the same as the original subaru ones did.

Okay I flipped the strut tops around since I found I had them in backwards and that helped with the binding I was having. I fixed the overheating problem that I was having now it rides just a hair above where it used to but that's not a big deal. I have the heater core disconnected since its missing the valve and I have the old V.R. Holding the seat up. I will be taking this down to the neighbors today and see what we can do to fix the floor boards oh and I'll try and get some pics of the under cairage.

I just looked up that part# on rock auto looks like the lower end of Stant t-stats. I'm going to have to talk to my parts supplier about getting some of the high end ones in. I'm kinda disappointed but, I will be okay with it as long as it works

Okay this is the thermostat I used its a Stant O.E. Temp O.E. Type part number 13859 it was like $7.00 but I think that's cheaper than they usually are because I got it with my rear wheel bearings and I talked the price down a bit I have used this thermostat before with no problems on an 85ea81 brat, if it does screw up though I will be getting a subaru one. Just to clarify though the t-stat has not given me any problems since I burped it.

This was the best t-stat I could get, I don't go cheap on my cooling system

Nope it just needed to be burped properly, I just forgot.

I don't remember the part number off the top off my head but, I got it from federated auto it was a Stant o.e. temp o.e. type. I'll try and find the box and get the part number for reference. I think it was 1558 but, that's right off the top of my head so that might be wrong.

ya I think the Stant thread should be a sticky.

Nice thanks a ton, you were 100% correct it just needed to be burped properly. It works like a charm I went through my drive way and back without overheating (not an easy task at the moment being its a good foot if mud)

Thank you milesfox that very well could be I will try burping it better.Do you have a video on this yet

I am going to say this once. The reason I am not going to get an oem thermostat is because I have to drive 80 miles ONE WAY to the closest dealer and pay fifteen bucks for a t-stat. That is not going to happen I have used this exact part number before and had zero problems.

You obviously can't read rad is new I'm not going to replace it again, and I don't care what brand t-stat you have if it opens at the right temp IT IS NOT GOING TO CAUSE OVERHEATING! I just don't have the money to be replacing parts that are working.

Last time I'm going to say this t-stat is not going to cause it to overheat like this besides it opens at the proper temp.