mikaleda

T-stat opens and at the right temp so that's not the problem.

Coolant levle stays the same, fans run the right direction, t-stat is not the problem, planning on doing a flush and coolant change next

Just thought I would add. I can let it idle all day long and it will sit at quarter gauge but, if I try to drive any where it jumps to 3/4 gauge

So I'm going to be getting some Peugeot rims from a neighbor in a couple weeks. I have a choice, I can get alluminum alloy or steels both are 14's. I'm thinking of getting the steel rims since I want this to be mud rig but, I like the looks of the alloys. I'm torn on wich ones to get

T-stat isn't the problem but yes I agree for the most part SUbie t-stats are much better quality.

Okay this is a strange one when I got this car it didn't have a thermostat and the electric fan didn't work,so I threw a cheap T-stat in and fixed the fan. About 1000 miles later the T-stat quits working acts like its stuck open. So I parked it for a while and it sat through the winter, I go to put in a new Stant O.E type thermostat and when I pull the old one out its closed so I take the new and old t-stats and boil them while watching the temp. Old t-stat starts opening at 150 and the new one starts opening at 190. I figured that the old one was just weak and that's why it wasn't working so I throw the new t-stat in and go for a drive, now it's overheating so I get out and feal the radiator hoses both are cold. I thought maybe the heater core was clogged and was making it not circulate properly so I bypass it, still overheating. Water pump shaft is solid and water pump doesn't leak radiator has been replaced less than 500 miles ago. What I am wondering is why would a 39 degree differance in t-stats be this big of a deal? I am thinking that the water pump may have a spun impeller but that seems unlikely but, then again the only other thing I could think would be a problem would be a clog in the block somewhere but I would think that would make it overheat all the time. Please help this is ticking me off

Did you check the main grounds to your ecu? Kinda looks like its not getting grounded good enough.

I'm not sure where they are located on your car but, to get the codes you need to connect the the two black single wire connecters and then it will blink the codes to you. I think the connecters on your car would be under the hood by the right strut tower. This link is a write up on how to check the codes on obd1 imprezas and legacys but the codes are the same for your car http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html And yes you can hook them up to certain OBDII scanners I have seen them online but, I don't think that's going to help.

And if course five minuets after I post that I find the relay it is one if the older style roundies and its original resting place was right behind the fuse box on the very top, but when they "fixed" it they relocated to an easier to get to place. When I pulled the tray down I found this relay staring me in the face As you can see in these pics they used a wire splicer on the negative side of the relay and ran it to the closest ground making the fan stay on the whole time. This could also be used as a quick fix for those who don't want to pull their hvac controlls apart and resolder the circuit board.

Okay so the info I got about the blower motor relay is wrong, I did find a relay behind the fuse box but it didn't go to the blower motor. I can see a relay that looks like the old roundies but by the location I think it's the fuel pump relay. Then there are three black relay looking things ontop of the fuse box but, I have no clue how to get them out without breaking them.

Ngk spark plugs and either Ngk wires or napa lifetime wires (I have run napa liftimes in three differant subies and never had any problems), I would definatly start by putting the right wires and plugs in and see what happens

Okay I'll keep that in mind, bratman 18 has first dibs on side skirts and rear bumper lip. Now I'd better write that down otherwise ill end up forgetting lol.

Thanks for the info woods wagon, I have a deal going with the owner we might be parting it out or selling the whole car. I don't want 1.19 for low range so I will be using a regular old dual range maybe a five speed if I can find one I'd really love to find a 4.11 trans and rear end but, wish in one hand you know what in the other and see which one fills up faster

He did update it

The fan works just like its supposed to, all four speeds work. I did check around the fan since that was the first thing I thought to but, the wiring goes into a harness just like its supposed to. I think they just wired the relay straight to the acc part of the fuse box, probably to the heater fuse. I am going to pull the fuse box out a little and see if I can find the relay and maybe that will give me an idea of what they did.

Official pug lug nut thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/46773-official-alloy-pug-lug-nut-thread/ Try the search function on this site it's faster than waiting for someone to answer your question

Okay I know why it's not turning off, sixstar automotive did this to my moms subaru when her hvac controls went out. I have since fixed them using legacy777's write up but whatever six star did is still operating the fan all the time. I looked up where the heater fan relay is but, I got conflicting story's. I believe the relay is behind the left hand kick panel behind the fuse box, is that right? Also does anyone know what they might have done to make it work like this? The way it's hooked up the fan will run even if the hvac controls are unplugged. I believe they were messing around with the relay, but I can't find any wiring diagrams on the climate controlls to even get an idea of what they did. Any help would be appreciated.

IMHO I kind of doubt they are going to do a TSB for a 2001 that is over a decade old

Sounds like a failed spark plug boot on the coil end, maybe try switching the #2 wire around and see if the miss fire follows. Also the wire may not be plugged in all the way either

Oh and try cleaning your new iac

Check the voltage at the iac wiring harness a DIY Manuel should give you the values and what prongs to test, or you might be able to find the info on this site.

Nice I like that idea, I will be interested in your results. Another quick fix I just thought about, leather. My step dad is a leather worker and that is one thing I learned from him about cars, that for a quick fix a leather gasket will work for hydraulic systems crush type gaskets. It definatly won't hold up forever but it may get you down the road in an emergency

That figures bonner county is the cheapest county in Idaho, two people have already gotten stuck on the county road because the ruts are so bad and so far nobody's doing anything

Ya it's hard to get pics of the underside that's where the molded frame is bent, it looks like its going to be a nice day today so I will try and get some better pics of the undercarriage.

Well if your local auto parts stores don't carry it, I would take the old gasket down to the nearest hydraulics place and see if they can get one that's similar. If all else fails I would check online, rockauto might have it just double check your part numbers before you order it