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mikaleda

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Everything posted by mikaleda

  1. Replace it with the proper gasket, power steering uses a lot of hydrolic pressure cardboard and anaerobic sealant won't hold up
  2. IMHO I wouldn't use napa, from personal experience napa parts for an 80 subaru sucks. Rockauto.com is a great place for parts but make sure to double check part numbers with amazon or any other auto parts dealer. Engine ID is on front left hand side of engine it will either say ea71 or ea81 ea71 is the 1600 and ea81 is the 1800. My ea71 has blue valve covers
  3. My mistake, the way the pic was taken made it look smaller.
  4. I put a 2 1/4 cherry bomb on a legacy and it was just a tad to big I had to have a snuffer nut welded to the end, after that it sounded just like an sti at least for the first few miles.
  5. Link to my build thread in my signature, page four has the pics of the rust (i'm still working on getting pics of the bottom.) I crawled underneath it yesterday since the sun was out and I think that it looked worse than it was. The molded frame is definatly bent and my floor boards are definatly sagging but, I think the body itself is straight. I'm thinking about just straightening out the floor boards and replacing the steering rack and see what happens. If everything is straight and my tire isn't wearing weird any more then I'll just buy a set of Peugeot 14's.
  6. Just keep it washed off, pay special attention to the undercarriage and the rear wheel wells that is where the salt sticks the most.
  7. Also about the ticking that could be TOD or Tick Of Death but, don't worry it doesn't mean your cars going to die. Here is a good thread about it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/109575-ea82-lifter-ticking-tod-etc-my-recent-experience/?hl=%2Bea82+%2Btick
  8. that is not oem i can tell already. oem is hard to mistaken they are bigger and beffier than that. that looks more like the stant ones
  9. the first suspect i would think would be valve cover gaskets, those are very easy to change so i would do that and while you are at it clean up the oil on the heads so you can clearly see where the leak is coming from If it is still present after the valve cover gasket change. if it is a head gasket the oil will start leaking between the head and the block and if you clean it up good around there you will be able to tell. IMHO i doubt its the head gasket. it would help to know what engine you have though.
  10. 1800-3500 rpm at WOT? sounds like a great way to wear your car out in a hurry.
  11. if you just pull the muffler off and throw a glass pack on it sounds like a v8 but its going to draw more attention to you for sure
  12. wow sounds like you got a nice car, its good to see one of theses go to someone who is going to actually take care of it.
  13. I'm lucky I have a nice neighbor that is going to help me, he is a retired welder fabricator and he has the steel, the tools and the knowledge to fix it. I just have to do the prep work and trade material for grunt work, that's no biggie for me.
  14. Google images, a quick search and I found same style car labeled 2013 subaru impreza wagon 2.0i
  15. Yes Idaho uses salt! Calcium chloride Deicer at least, bonner county does for sure I don't know about cda area but I would assume so. better safe than sorry.
  16. I know what you mean I went through all kinds of overheating problems on my legacy when I first got it, after lots of searching I found out that only use oem or Stant exactstat. Since napa doesn't carry them try rockauto.com use the part number in the exactstat thread to find the right one.
  17. I had a cracked vapor canister on my legacy when I bought it, I used duck tape and it worked until I got a new canister. Acctually it had a hole in it
  18. Get the exactstat I put one in my 90 legacy and haven't had any problems with it
  19. It's also a good remineder of why you always use jack stands and have someone else around when your under a car.
  20. More pics, PS holes DS holes continued from first post
  21. Okay pics coming in a minute but, I have pulled everything but the dash out of the interior and have chipped out most of the tar and exposed the rust holes. Some of the rust holes were huge but for the most part it's mainly the floor boards. Here is the biggest hole Here is under the drivers seat Molded frame that's rusted through Dirt I got out of the rear quarter panel Yuck
  22. The rear suspension isn't going to change much on mine since I am only going to change the backing plate, rotor and caliper. I'm not really sure if I am going to do the five lug swap or not, I would rather do a rear disc conversion and a six lug redrill. Unfortunately I'm not sure if I can straighten the body out enough to make the tire sit right, I'm going to try. Does anyone got ideas of how one might reinforce the unibody on one of these old gen subies?
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