mikaleda

I said wd-40 not pb blaster, wd-40 is just light oil if it coats the terminals it will kill you're spark I have done it before on accident.

Any codes or lights on? Like check engine light or AT temp light? Does your motor seem to be the problem or the transmission, it's hard to tell by the way you are describing it.

Be carfull with wd-40 in a dry cap, it's really easy to coat the terminals and kill all your spark.

Wow clean car. 3k seems like a lot but he will probably jump on a cash offer, like uberoo said offer him 1,200 and play the game

I know that If I am working on something I can't see (like a 90's Chevy has tank connections) I can't have gloves on because I am relying ony sense of touch and anything even a thin glove will mess that up. Then again when messing around with antifreeze and oil, I know from experience that your hands will start drying out badly and cracking. So I can see where there are times for gloves and times for no gloves.

I only were gloves when it gets so cold your hands start freezing to your tools but, I can see how rubber gloves would make the job easier and it would sure save on gojo.

Cool thanks for the info, and yes I already knew I wanted low gearing. As for the reason for the five lug swap I just found out that it has a bent unibody, and I know my front end is never going to sit right again so I want the adjustable caster camber. Believe me I really don't want to, I just put Kyb gr2's in As for the small tires I was thinking of going 235 75 r15 but I was thinking about the Rx trans being higher geared. Now that I know the ratios on the low end I'm going to get a regular dual range. I am planning on mudding with it mostly and maybe some climbing, I'd love to put a set of 235 75 r15 wild country's on it.

okay i am going to turn my 80 into my new off road rig. I'm planning on doing a five lug swap and upgrading the ea71 up to an ea81 and i want to upgrade to a dual range transmission. I just happen to have a neighbor that has an 87 RX with the dual range AWD center diff lock and i can get it for dirt cheap. what i am wondering is are these transmissions tough enough to stand up to bigger tires and offroading? would i be better off just getting an old dual range transmission? just for reference i am planning on running 205 75 r15

To tell you the truth I know people that have put 350's in s10's and they have to much power for a light truck like that. A subie is going to be even lighter since there is no frame, and that's another thing, is your unibody going to be able to hold up to the torque of a 350? You really might want to do some more research on this.

I don't see how your going to get a 350 in a gl but if you want a tough auto that will bolt up to a 350 get a TH350 their bulletproof with a shift kit and stall converter.

I know from experience from my 80 gl that low milage doesn't mean much when they have sat for that long. Mine ended up having a broken unibody. Things I would check are undercarriage (check for rust holes and check the molded frame) check the carpet for dampness and pull up a corner on the drivers side and check for rust, take a look at those rear wheel wells, check all the rubber like c.v.s and steering rack, and look under the hood and make sure there hasn't been mice nesting in there. Use any flaw you see to negotiate the price down.

The only test I know of is for a blocked cat that is causing problems, but It wouldn't work for your situation. I think there is a way to test the sensor with a multi meter but, don't quote me on that if you know somebody that has a obd scanner that can read live data that could tell you a lot. You can also get an OBDII scanner through harbor freight that can read live o2 sensor data for right around $120

Looks like a trunk light switch to me.

That means you TCU has an error code. Look in the new gen FAQ sticky. the first page has instructions on how to retrieve your codes

If the water pump fails it could contaminate the belt. IMHO I would change the water pump because your going to have to do it before the next belt change anyway and it's cheaper and easier just to do it now

Good idea that would Shure make that part easier. do you know if the rear discs off of an 87 Rx would work? Nice I like that fix that is what I will do, that should get it fairly straight.

Well rockauto doesn't have much of anything for the xt6. I'll have to try and find the parts another way

Okay I did some searching on the five lug swap and the same car I got the alternator out of (95 impreza 2 door sedan) should have the right front suspension parts. The tie rod ends I can get through rock auto but, the lower control arms might be a problem. I think I can use the original Lower controll arm if I have it machined to fit the ej ball joint. The back is going to be a little harder to find what I need, I haven't seen an xt6 around here in years. Since I am going to be working on the getting the body welded up first I have time to find those parts. I might end up getting them through rock auto depending on the cost .

Ya that is what I was thinking I just put to much work into this car to just let it go, Besides it matches my legacy nicely

I was thinking about this car last night and I think I may be able to save it. First thing I need to do is straighten the unibody as best I can then have it welded up and reinforced. Next I would fix the rest of the rusted out floor panels and sand and paint the rust. Once that is done I know where I can get the suspension off of an impreza for cheap, so I am thinking five lug swap. At that point even of the frame is off a little I can adjust caster camber and make everything work. Later on I can get an ea81 and a dual range transmition and turn this into a mudder What do you guys think? Better than going to the wrecker I think.

At least I know what to look for on my next one I just hope my next one will be blue.

Okay this is the end of this car. when I pulled the interior out I found out that one of the rust holes goes clean through the molded frame and the unibody is bent. I think that is why my passenger side tire sits like it does. I don't know what to do except look for another ea81 subie and put my new parts in it. Poor subie it only had 133,000 miles on it.

Okay this is the end of this thread and this car I found my problem. When I pulled the seats and started repairing the rust I found out the body is bent. The molded frame is split in two and the unibody is bent.

Never use starting fluid on a diesle they will become dependent on it. Gas engines can handle it better but just as cougar said a little bit goes a long way.

You might want to check the grounds to your ECM.