mikaleda

I'm not sure what you mean. I'm just guessing at this point but is that the reason for the fluctuation of temps after it overheated?

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Thanks for that info 88wacaroo I am begening to believe the caster camber is not really the problem. I noticed yesterday that of I lock the steering wheel to the left that It binds, I believe that is because of the bad steering rack. I will be trying to get another one today then I will rotate tires. I still think I want to change the rubber bushings soon because they don't look to healthy and I live on a dirt road that is really badly maintained. One other thing I noticed is the strut tops are backwards I think. They are forward of center and looking at my shop Manuel they should be the other direction I believe.

That's exactly what I thought

Okay I am going to start by replacing my steering rack and see what happens. I know where a good used one is and I am going to try and get it this weekend.

Cool any ideas are helpfull. I had an idea recently also, would it be okay to freeze the bushing even just slightly? I was thinking about freezing the bushing and heating the control arm and maybe that would give me enough room to insert the new bushing. What do you guys think?

I just replaced the filter on the 91 I mentioned and it fixed the problem. I asked about them and they said they were a magnetic filter, no bypass

Another thing I forgot to mention is I did inspect the timing belt a few months ago and it did look fairly new. If it was changed on schedual it should be about halfway through its life

Timing belt/water pump change is unknown. But I do know that the water pump is not leaking and since after it cooled off it started working again its not a spun impeller. The heat never shut off completely like a thermostat issue it actually was working well. Mileage 213,000 give or take a few hundred miles. IIRC Water pumps usually fail in two ways, they either leak or they spin the impeller. Edit: also the differance in temps between hoses suggest a low flow problem that could be caused by multiple things. I believe it was caused by antifreeze contamination on the TB making it slip

Okay this is my stepdads car it is a 1997 legacy Brighton EJ22 213k I have diagnosed the problem but I want your opinion. Here's what happened, we were driving down a dirt road that was fairly hilly and after a while the temp gauge started going up. The temp never got into the red zone so he kept driving it and when we got to level ground it cooled down a little to about half. then it started fluctuating up and down, by this time we were on the highway and we had the heater on full blast so I had my window open and I could here a squeaking, like an alternator belt but slower. The heater would cool down whenever the engine Rpms slowed but would come back when engine Rpms were brought back up around 2500 Rpms. When we finally stopped and got out and checked it out I popped the cap off of the coolant resivour and it was full, there was no bubbles with the engine running. Also I felt the radiator and over 3/4 of the rad was cold top hose was hot and the bottom was cold. This car has always ran just a little under halfway on the temp gauge since my stepdad first got it and it looks like the original radiator. He did have it flushed a couple months ago but it didn't change where the temp gauge sat. This is what I believe happened. I think that it has a clogged radiator and when we started going up the steep hills it over heated enough to push some of the coolant out the resivour on to the timing belt covers (there was coolant on the TB covers) and some of it got on the timing belt making the water pump slip until we stopped and let it dry out. I think we should change the radiator, coolant, oil, and inspect the timing belt/water pump. What do you think?

Cool I like the way that setup looks

No security system it's the most basic model subaru sold in that year. Thank you for the info again much appreciated

I have a battery charger, but my house runs on solar electric and it takes a lot of juice to convert power to a.c. Than back to dc to charge a car battery. it's just easier to jump it, but yes i agree it is better to charge the battery rather than use the alt to charge a dead battery

Okay I found a gray 13 pin connector that conects to the shifter mechanism on the trans but everything is connected together. Is there a couple of pins on this connecter that I can get a reading from?

Cool thank you for the info

The new alt is working perfectly now I just need to get a fusible link box installed and put in a heavier fusible link for the alt

Okay how do I access the inhibit switch? Better safe than sorry.

IMHO i would Start by checking grounding to the lights that is most likely culprit, 12 volts is actually a little low but not enough to make the lights do that. Edit: also I believe that gloyal has a write up on here about dim head lights and making a new wiring harness to make them brighter.

I wasn't planing on bypassing it I was planning on using the wire that powers the cylinoid to power a small relay to maximize power going to the cylinoid switch. I don't think it is the inhibit switch since it only seems to do it if the car has sat for a few days and I know that the battery is weak but I tested it with a multi meter when it wouldn't start it was at 12.4 weak but it should have started

Oh also just FYI to anyone looking at this thread the 95 impreza alts are 78 amps and just as simple to wire as the cs130 and has the same output and is more slimline and just plain easier mod than the cs121 Edit: I would say that the 95 impreza alt is almost as simple as the maxima upgrade

Thank you guys for the help the alt is working flawlessly. I learned a lot about alternators, I accutually learned how to rebuild the cs series alternators as well Special thanks to ferox and gloyal your info was very usefull in this swap

Yep I have that exact problem with my legacy heat shields. I just left them like they were helps save on gas it makes you not want to rev it past 2500 rpm for a sustained amount of time

And hopefully to the right torque

I put a set of Kyb gr2's on my gl wagon lifetime garented and now it rides better than my Legacy