mikaleda

Well I started a thread in the retrofitting forum and got some good help and did a little research and found some info on how to hook up my alternator now I just need to get a two wire plug and get the alt fixed and I will be good to go :banana::banana: I accidentally fried it the first time I tried to wire it:dead:

Okay so I found out what the problem was the single wire on my plug is the charge indicator. That is why my alternator burned out, I had hooked it straight to a power source without any resistance and I did not have any power going to the stater wich is the s terminal. So I am going to have to rebuild it, get a two wire plug, connect it to the charge light and then the stater to solid power. That should be all I need to do. I'll start wiring today, but it might take me a while to get another alternator. I will update with results when I have a good alternator wired in this way.

Cool thank you gloyal that is just what I needed to know. It turns out it was my bad I fried the alternator I found this in a Toyota forum http://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/396184-cs130-install-questions-how-hook-up-wires.html it sounds like what I need to do is go to napa get a connector that has the S and L wires. The S wire gets connected to the batt. Side of the alternator and the L needs to be run a switched 12v power source that turns on and off with the key and has a warning light with the right amount of resistance. I'm thinking just hooking the L wire to the wire gloyal mentioned will solve my problem but first I have to have the alternator fixed

Wow there is so many topics on this it's not even funny this is going to take a while to research it sounds like I might have fried the alt myself by the way I wired it but I seems as though people have wired them in one wire and two wire applications. this one came with the factory plug with single wire but I can get plugs that have two and even four wires.

The alternator is most defiantly bad I went to start my car after re routing the wire and nothing turned not even the lights in the dash. So I went out and checked the battery 6.5 volts un hooked it 11.5 volts so I disconnected the batt side of my alternator and reconnected battery 11.5 so something is causing a major drain in my battery. I also tried disconnecting the feild wire and that didn't help so that is not the problem it has to be a problem with something inside the alternator. I will still try running feild wire a different way after i get another alt. I will do some research on how to hook this up properly

Ya you have a very nice car I would definitely keep that stock. My car is in very bad shape body wise it is going to take a lot to fix it and I'm sure it won't be at all what it was originally. That is why I want to try and make it better Anyhow on another note my alternator might be fine I am going to work on it right now and see if I can make it work.

I was actually thinking the same thing about the fusible links I know better than to hook it straight to the battery (but that is how I have it hooked now just to get it working) I didn't think about the feild sensor wire being a problem that way but I will fix that. As for this being a three wire alt actually it has four wires but the other three are for gauges and lights ect. I have already looked into what the other wires do but I know on a low trim Chevy they only run the one wire so that is why I ran it that way. I was going to look into getting a plug that had the other wires so I could properly run my volt meter and indicater light. I will try changing how the feild sensor wire runs for now I will run it strait to the battery to see if that helps I did try running a search but all of the threads were on a different series of alternators Thank you for the help

That's not always the case I have had knock sensors go bad before without throwing a code and it causes similar symptoms Just my experience I am no expert

Ya but I want to get away from the externally regulated and get into self contained. I can get an upgraded rebuild kit for this alt for sixty bucks. Also depending on how much trouble this hitachi carb becomes I might just throw a weber on there too. Other than that though I am going to keep it stock suspension and body wise (other than maybe a set of Peugeots) I have a neighbor with like six sets of alloy Peugeot rims on the cars I have been trying to get him to sell me a set (especially since none of the cars run lol) Good luck with your car and if all else fails remember to check for corrosion that is becoming a problem with these older cars nowadays Also always check your part numbers on rock auto I have gotten several wrong parts from them

Nope the cs series of alternators are totaly self contained the only thing it needs is to be hooked to a battery, that is why I chose this style alternator. The only thing that is connected to the car is the single wire coming out the back needs a positive connection so I connected it to the hot wire for the auto choke (wich I replaced with a Manuel choke) that runs through the old voltage regulator and is only on when the car is running. The VR for the old alt. is a new napa Ecklin solid state. Edit: I just read my op I forgot to mention it is a cs130 delco remy found in gm cars for 86-93 this one came off a 350 Chevy according to pnp markings

Well this alternator needs to be rebuilt I changed out my battery to block connection with a better wire and then it started over charging. Damn napa can't get anything right

Well this is weird I changed out negative battery cables and tried again this time the voltage shot wayyyy up it got to 17 volts before I could shut it off. I'm thinking this must be the alternator Damn napa they can't get anything right it seems

I'm doing an alternator upgrade on my 80 gl. I found out a lot of the problems I have been having has been due to bad wires it seems when the cars get this old the wiring starts to degrade especially since most of it is aluminum. Of course I am still:banghead: with a low charge and dash lights. Good luck hopefully you don't run into too much trouble

I got the alternator in it was a tight squeeze but it is working kinda Pics I'm still having charging problems I even added a new heavier copper wire to the battery but that didn't help either and of course my dash lights are still on at least my brackets worked out good

I have a 1980 gl 1600 external voltage regulator. When my alternator went out I decided I would try putting a better alternator in. I already had this alternator sitting on my parts shelf. Luckily my old alternator had a double pully on it so I swapped the pullys out and everything fit perfect. Then I modified my bracket to hold this alternator And made a tensioner for it Everything is working so far the alternator just barley fit but I am still having problems with charging. When I first got this alternator a couple months ago I had it bench tested a napa and they said it was in perfect working order So I replaced the wire going to the battery with a better gauge wire, that helped a little. I tried attaching a ground wire (a nice heavy one) that didn't help at all. Also all my dash lights are still stuck on which I thought was my old alternator (the old alternator died of a bad diode) I expected that the alternator light would not work properly but I thought the other lights would start working properly. I have checked for ac ripple since the new alternator but I cannot get a reading with my cheap multi meter. I don't think that this alternator has anything wrong with it. Does anyone know what might be causing this?

Well I am thinking it is because I am using a cheap meter because battery disconnected it is showing the same amount of ac voltage, testing my legacy shows the same results. What I don't get is why my dash lights are still on even when my alternator is disconnected

Thanks yep I have been working on this thing for six months now. It's a major pain in my lol dang thing is more stubborn than a mule I just finished putting my new alternator In and same thing is happening Ac ripple and not charging wich I'm sure is not the alts fault I ha it tested and I know it is charging thankfully I didn't spend any money on this swap.

Ok I am still having problems. New voltage regulator didn't fix it so I took the back off of my alternator yep sure enough bad diode. new alt in I replaced the old alternator with a delco remy cs 130 and I know that it has been tested at napa so I know that it was charging good. I'm not seeing any improvements still has ac ripple and won't get above eight volts on the dash or ten volts to the battery. I wired the delco to the battery and the single wire to the auto choke (wich I don't use) I really doubt the alternator is the problem What the heck is going on!

Nice I am always a little caucious about harbor freight tools, it took two of their pickle forks to get one ball joint out lol. I will defiantly be getting one of those now. Thanks for the review gd

How tough are those, can you realy wrench on them? That would certainly help with the tighter ones.

I like wix I have replaced a couple legacy filters with wix I've never had a problem

Yep I have done that several times sometimes it works sometimes not just have to cross you fingers and hope for the best. If the ends are rusty might want to soak th with some penetrant for a while.

Wow this is a better alternator than I thought I think it is a delco remy cs 130 100 amps! But it might be the cs 121 only 80 amps! Lol and it's the same size as my old alternator here's some pics

Well I have been messing around with this car again. I just modified a Chevy alternator (singal wire) I think it's a 65 amp I look it up later and put some pics. I put my double pully on it off of my old alternator and regressed the bearings now I just need to make some brackets to hold it on my engine. I am going to hook it to the auto choke wire (wich is only hot when engine is running) that is the only wiring that I should have to do. Hopefully everything will work out and I will not have to spend a penny on my new alternator

Actually you only want to heat the outside of the doj cup the heat will expand the metal making it easier to get off