mikaleda

i have heard nothing about recall, i'm not in canada but i am close (within fifty miles of the border)

+1

if your engine has timing belts than you have an ea82 an that also means you have spfi, that is a good engine you should get fairly good mileage with stock tires. your best bet is to just stay with stock tires. the block number will say ea82 that means you have a fuel injected 1800 and ea81 means you have a carberated 1800, also the ea82 has sohc and the ea81 has timing gears and push rods. just thought i would add this if you want good milage and don't mind spending close to 2,000 on changing gears get a legacy i have a 90 2.2 all wheel drive i get around 30mpg highway and has alot more power than any gl i have ever driven

i doubt it, more likely what ivan said check timing belt and go from there

lol i like that pic ^

i'm running 185/80/r13 on my gl they are taller and narrower that gives better mileage, also changing tires does the same thing as changing gear ratio essentially. front diff is part of the transmission so it would be much wiser just to change tires. subies are trans axles look under your hood you will understand. i have seen gl's that get 30 mpg if you arn't getting good mileage try doing a tune up. 3k at 60 is fine and no matter what tire you run it will run right around 3k at 60-65 unless you do a five lug conversion, six hole redrill, or put 14 inch pugeuot rims on with bigger tires. and yes 2wd is front wheel drive. if it is carburated (witch i doubt) than it has to be an e81, that means you could do a weber swap witch will give you more power if done right. more than likely it is spfi witch looks like a carb until you pull off your air cleaner then you will see the injectors, and that means it is an ea82. the engine identification number is stamped into the block in the front of the engine on the left side. also if it is an ea82 it will have timing belts so you might want to check that they need to be replaced at 60k intervals

something doesn't sound right, an 84 with an o2 sensor? that should be a carberated motor, sounds like someone replaced the cat with a newer one.

if you have the heads sent in to be resurfaced have them magnafluxed (please pardon my spelling) that will show if they are cracked or not. also have any head you buy from anywhere magnafluxed just to be sure (better safe than have to do your head gaskets again) .

defiantly cant hurt to replace fuel filter (i would suggest wix), that is a good starting place. also its only around $5 for a can of seafoam put that in your gas after you replace fuel filter that might help to.

thats not a for sure way of telling though, i have seen that in subies that didn't have a blown head gasket. that can be caused by bad radiator cap

90 2.2 $150 at napa but another member suggested swapping the whole fuel rail out with a fuel rail with known good injectors saves time and money. also i could be wrong about injectors make sure they are malfunctioning before you swap them out. the way i tested them was when the engine would run weird i would go around and pull the plugs on the injectors while it was running eventually i got to the bad one and the engine didn't bog down at all when the bad injector was disconected. hope this helps

sounds like injectors, i had this problem with junk yard motors before. drove me crazy trying to figure out what it was.

ah that could explain why i can't get all the air out of my step dads 97 lego brighton

i always think of it this way, start from the farthest cylinder from the master cylinder that is the first place the air will go. also a lot of the time it is necessary to bled the brakes twice because it is hard to get all the air out.

glad to see you found the right shocks, ya my wagon is defiantly different. your struts look the same as mine did though i had the adjusters untill i changed to the gr2s now they are set at the max height permanently its kinda nice gives me way better clearance. i didn't see your whole thread so i am not sure what you did with your struts to many pics for my slow internet to load lol

ya you probably should change your user name .

my normal commute takes me through ten miles of dust and my experiance is the cars that get clogged less seem to be the ones that pull air from the front of the car

why would you need abs in florida? the only thing i like it for is icy roads other than that i could care less lol

lol yes many times, the worst part is when you can't where gloves because you are starting a nut on threads and your fingers freeze to the metal.

every 60k is what i have heard for when you change the belts. it took me three months of searching to find my legacy i paid $950 for my 90 legacy awd 211k all the features very clean except i didn't notice the head gasket problem till later on. just keep looking and you will find a better deal

too much. in my area that would go for around $2000 if it had a new timing belt. it only gets 27? my legacy gets that and its all wheel drive with 211k on it with a blown head gasket and a broken charcoal canister lol that should get better milage than that.

i don't think you need a reader on the older gen subies i know i don't on my 90 legacy. also did not know it was ea82 engine but i think gd is right check your codes first

i have heard you can get higher ethonal content depending on how long the gas has been in the tank and how low the tank is because the ethonal and the gas don't mix and will separate after time and will also deteriorate faster . i have run into problems with my older cars running bad if i get gas from certain gas stations that don't get alot of customers. just a thought

a link for igniton module testing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134135

i don't even know if there is a way, but i think it is more than likely wires or cap. a visual check of cap might not tell you anything. you can check for a crack by putting some white refined flour in the cap and cranking it if there is a crack it will show up burned, but if you are not getting power from the coil this will show nothing. also the cap could be bad internally to where there is no way to check it. best thing to do is try a different known good cap. the best way to check the coil is with an inexpensive multi-meter very useful tool to have and they only cost around five bucks at habor frieght. i can't remember the procedure on how to check the coil, but you should be able to find it in a diy car Manuel, maybe even on this site use the search function it is very helpfull