mikaleda

first thing i would do is check you wires then test your coil with a multi meter to make sure it is working, if it is try a different cap even though its new it could still be at fault. it could also be the igniton module but that is unlikely.

yep, exactly why i do my own oil changes

oh ya almost forgot i found the problem with my cyclops light. when i pulled the bumper i noticed the limiter switch is corroded, bad. it looks like i will need a new one if i want to fix it

i would go back to the oil change place and get them to have it fixed there is no reason for them to forget to put the oil back in. if it has only been a couple months there should be no problem. that is just what i would do its not your fault they messed up

sounds like it needs to be tuned or possibly a timing issue.

patched the hole in my floor board with mini tech screws and some galvie tin. sealed it with old school roofing tar that stays flexible

pics after wreck http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv218/mikaleda/DSCI0006.jpg http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv218/mikaleda/DSCI0005.jpg

its a relay, to what though i don't know maybe AC?

i want. i have had to fix the ol plow truck in the middle of winter with three feet of snow on the ground trying to do a wheel bearing outside temp well below freezing. a building like that would be wonderfull.

+1 mother natures out door garage sucks

i wish my legacy ran i wouldn't even bother with this car lol but my moms newest addition to the family might be my new ride for a little while 91 legacy 2.2 4eat 250,000 miles no muffler no back brakes and sturts are shot but she still runs

i've used the longest bolt out of a subie oil pump for a roll pin punch before i just happened to have an extra one lying around. it was the perfect size. and just fyi i have done a c.v. with a three pound hammer, a ball pene hammer, a large pipe wrench, and a metric socket set

i once had a 67 chevy that my dad had put a newer alternator in, he managed to put in one with and internal voltage regulator and hooked up and ran it for several years with and internal voltage regulator and an external regulator. never had any ill effects. just came to mind. i know there are quite a few differences between a 67 chevy and a 80 subaru though.

Thank you for the offer but i would not feel right about taking it, mainly because i have not tried everything to get a alt. i still have a couple other possibility's left. i have a neighbor that has a few subie alts and voltage regulators, i am just having a hard time getting ahold of them. i also have a cat converter off of a chevy 350 and a self igniting chevy alt. that i might be able to get enough money off of to rebuild my alternator. and of course a rebuilt toyota alt. too being a shade tree mechanic has its perks i have a lot of parts lying around i was just hoping that this Toyota one would work.

i have been having a problem with a bad diode in this alternator for some time now i checked for ac volts at the battery and i found i was getting 40 volts ac current . then i started to have problems with over charging if i didn't run with a load on i would get sixteen volts according to the dash gauge. i've also been having problems with some of the dash lights staying on that shouldn't and i have heard theories that it would be caused by the bad diode or it could be caused by bad voltage regulator. most recently my volt meter in the dash is sitting steady on 12 volts at 2000 rpm plus and 10 volts at 800 rpms no load if i turn my fan on it doesn't matter what rpm i am running i get 8 volts. my gauge could be faulty though. if i can find my multi meter i will test to make sure it is right. i doubt it is my battery and i have had no problems starting the car actually i drove it over fifty miles home after it started and had no problems just low voltage and have known alt has been on the verge for a while. i just have been having bad luck lately so haven't been able to fix it. i know it has to do with the alt. or voltage regulator, but i am not sure witch yet

if i could take it in i would and yes the subie alt. is externally regulated i'm not sure of the toyota but there should still be a way to hook it up even if it is internally regulated

80 gl 1600 4wd. my alternator just went out today and i have no money to get it fixed or replace it, but i have a rebuilt toyota alternator. i need help with the connections everything else is the same her is some pics. subaru toyota can anyone tell me the relation of F/N is to A/B? and what C is for? P.S. F/N are stamped on the toyota alt. A/B and C are edited in. A/B are on the subie alt. and C is on the toyota alt.

Nice! i like that fix i am going to have to remember that.

whew after an exhausting week in washington, i now managed to crumple the right front end of my car with a red honda . but i was able to fix the damage well will get some pics up in a while sorry no before fix pics just after but i can tell you i hit hard enough to shove my fender into my tire.

i have a set of 185 80 r13 on my gl, they work good better in the snow than the mud though

i have to agree with gd the older the get and the more you work on cars the easier it gets mainly because you have more patience and more knowledge.

hmm. this is interesting are these the same style bearings as would be in a gl? i might just try this out i need to do all four front bearings on my car and i like the savings.

you can coat your cap with a little refined white flour and put it back on and run it for a minuet. the flour will show you if you have a crack in your cap when you take it off. if you have a crack it will appear burned where the crack is making it easy to see. also if you ever hit a puddle and your car dies and won't start again you can spray WD-40 inside the cap and put it back on and it will start

what is wrong with open bearings? as long as you replace the seals with the bearing i don't think you would have any problems any sooner than with a sealed bearing. i would not trust a bearing made for an electric motor in a car. for a wheel bearing that is.