mikaleda

yep they fit perfect but just so you know when i ordered the mounting kits from rock auto they were in worse shape than my old mounts were and they didn't fit anyway so be careful if you are buying new mounts and bearings.

then it is probably clogged in the block some where, or your water pump is starting to fail but i doubt it.

cool calculators thanks :cool:

tps is around ten bucks at junkyard last time i was there, don't go to auto parts store an oem replacement tps is around $300. i put a tps on one of my 90's out of the junk yard and it worked just fine. also before you put a tps in are you getting any codes? you can check them yourself on a 90 without a scan tool its obd1.

if you are going to get a new carb don't waste your money on a hitachi, it is cheaper and better to get a weber

you need a new radiator or rod out the tubes in the one you have. also flush your system you might have a blockage in your block

i should get around 30 mpg because i am running 185-80-r13 taller and narrower tires than stock and i have the 1600. i just have to figure out how far my miles are off per tank because the tires changed the gearing which means my trip meter is not accurate anymore.

sorry it's been so long without an answer i replaced fuel pump (the one in the carb), needle and seat, and gaskets cleaned out the inside of the carb with chlorinated carb cleaner. it worked! now my car is running good again. i am still am not sure of the mileage i'm getting other things have been breaking and i haven't ran it enough to know yet

^

my step dads 97 2.2 has an iacv neither of my 90 2.2s have one, that i know of but they are kind of hard to miss.

chlorinated brake cleaner? i've never heard of it are your sure your not talking about carb cleaner? brake cleaner is made to not leave any residue thats why it is none chlorinated usually.

no iacv or egr on a 90 2.2 i have two :-p, any trouble codes? if not i would check the maf sensor first and see what happens. another thing to consider is an injector i just did this to one of mine a while back.

rockauto.com they have several makes of brake calipers for your loyal when i get parts from them they are usually there within 3-5 days and if you pay a little more you can get it there sooner

pics! not much just thought i would put up some pics of my new kybs next time i am going to spend the money to have a shop switch the springs. i was using a cheap spring compressor and they didn't work very good after a few hours of cussing i got the assembly's back together and in my car i can hardly wait to try them out.

very informative good response

finally got my struts in (sorry no pics at the moment) i had to end up using my old mounts and bearings. rock auto customer service is great after the parts they sent me failed in every way imaginable, and even after i did a little welding on them they are still going to refund me the money for them and are sending me return instructions today . now all i have to do is put my ball joint in and i can test out my new struts:D

junk yard if you want replacements last time i was there a set of legacy fans were less than $20. the thing i would be worried about is what messed them up in the first place and will it happen again with your new fans. good luck hope all goes well

the op said that they connected ground and positive directly to the battery to test fans and neither fan was working. it seems weird that both fans would quit at the same time though. those style fans should be brush less which means a short could have fried the circuits in the fan, but what would have shorted out both fans at the same time is what the question should be. i have a question for the original poster. when you connected the fans directly was there any sign of draw like a spark? and also can you spin the fan blades freely or are they froze up?

sweet the way auto part prices are going thats a good thing.

thats cool i miss my old auto parts store it was like that but i moved and had to start using a differant one. i have been going there for a few years and they still don't know me by name. i have been in and out of federated auto for a few years and they already know me by name .

not the throw out bearing that would make noise when you push the clutch in. as for a ball park figure i don't know but i would suggest doing your clutch at the same time while your there it might save money in the long run. check out rockauto.com if you just want parts to do it yourself they have decent prices. yes it is part of the transmission it is the main bearing for the input shaft

good luck hopefully knock sensor works

yes if it is too loose or too tight it will make a difference easy thing to do since it is only one bolt. another thing to remember is to put the wire the correct way also, it has to be pointed in the right direction. and yes visual checks are not a good test.

have you done a visual check on your knock sensor? it wouldn't hurt to try, and have you tried a different octane since your problem started. that might tell you some thing there. the main job of the knock sensor is to adjust timing to compensate for knocking due to cheap gas which is why it didn't matter what fuel you put in your subie before, you might notice a difference now if your knock sensor is bad. just a thought might be worth a try. as for the reader not working your car is obdII it is probably just the cheap reader, you get what you pay for.

stant xact makes a good subaru thermostat they are the same as oem i use them in my subies