mikaleda

input bearing more than likely, but it wouldn't hurt to try adjusting the clutch. good luck

i have quit using my local napa the management has changed and i don't like the treatment i get from them. i have been going to napa since i was ten (when i used to go there with my dad) and never have gotten any breaks on prices (except one or two free tail lights) , being the local backyard mechanic i am in the parts store at least twice a week. i know what you mean about screwing up orders they constantly do that to me. i am going to federated auto much better customer service and way better parts. i don't mind oriellys but i only use the ngk plugs and wix filters on my cars and they are less expensive at my local federated auto store as are all the quality parts i use. i do go to oriellys for parts sometimes the only reason i don't use them more is they are to far away, its an extra forty mile drive to the closest one to me

i don't trust anyone with my car that is why i do the work myself

i really am begging to hate rockauto the new mounting kit was more sloppy than my old mounting plates. i am going to have the strut mounts welded to take out the slop and hopefully everything will work right.

okay i kind of thought as much. i am not going to worry about the boot and stopper my old ones were in good shape still. i'm having the hole that the strut mounts through welded to fill the sloppiness. my local supplier said they are the same as a monroe mounting kit and should work fine with the struts i ordered. once i get the mounts welded and fixed i will put it together and see what happens everything looks like it should work. thanks for the quick response, much appreciated this darn car is driving me crazy

oh ya sorry about that 80 gl 4wd wagon. also when i looked at the mounts the hole that the struts go through are totally sloppy. rockauto customer support said they are the right parts so i am going to have to fix that to.

i just bought 2 boot kits and 2 strut mounting kits from rockauto.com and this is what i got left side is my old parts right side is the new raock auto parts. struts i know these are right kyb gr2 gas replacements boot kit kyb mounting kit mevotech and this is the most important part of all strut bearing new one old one the mount looks right but the bearings are noticeably different, i'm not going to worry about the boots my old ones are fine. all i really want to know will the bearing work

whatever you want to think gd i was just stating my OPINION. i don't care how long you have been working on subarus but i have worked on all makes and models since i was eight i learned to drive at ten and i have seen winters you will never see where you live i also don't have money to spend jacking up cars. i just barley make ends meet right now and just normal repair costs are killing me as it is. so no i haven't driven a nice decked out subaru and yes i agree the newer autos are good. i would still rather had a stick and so far the auto that i have has cost me more money than both of my stick shifts

were do you get those?

i think that differs on were we live you live in a big city yes an auto is better there. i live twenety miles from the closest town and i have seen clutches go farther than 100k before and also i have two 90 legacys at my house one stick one auto the stick gets better mileage. and my legacy in first gear is like having low range. another pro to a stick is also were i live alot of the time people burn out autos because it is not unusual to see three feet of snow over night (i live less than fifty miles from canada as the crow flies) and when you need to get through that a stick is far superior. to tell you the truth my gl is a better winter car than my legacy for getting through the tough snow

that is right you have to follow that procedure or you can't completely purge the air from your system. like you said sometimes it takes two tries to get it right. i'm almost sure that is what is wrong with my gl

that may be true, but i have never had a five speed leave me stranded you can almost always find a way to make it home. also if you have a low battery you can push start it :-p i do have to say subaru makes a very good auto. but as for clutch maintenance it is cheaper to replace a clutch than to have to flush your atf every two years

i said snug not wrench on it. all it takes is a little bit they work their way loose after a while and if you are smart you only put a very small amount of torque on it other wise you will damage your gasket. if you are tightening enough to snap a bolt than you shouldn't be working on cars. no offense ment, but i have worked on cars since i was ten and the first car i worked on was a 67 chevy. they only use cork gaskets for oil pan and valve covers on older cars and if you periodicly snug your bolts it will keep your gaskets from leaking. when i say snug i mean less than one foot pound of tourqe. i am also familier with legacys i periodically snug the bolts on all of them that i work on they do work their way loose just like any other car. if the bolt doesn't want to turn easily than DON'T TURN IT it is that simple. the only reason i am stressing this point is the average joe can't just pull their engine just to fix an oil leak. like i said before i don't mean to offend any one but it just upsets me when you guys talk about pulling an engine like it is a simple process. it may be for you since you are in a shop and have all the tools and stuff you need, but it is not easy for the average joe.

my strut mounting kits and boot kits were in the mail today but i got to the post office one minuet late for pick up. so frustrating, so close i could have had my struts in today. i laid rubber on the way home carb is working good :-p

this is one reason i have stick shifts way simpler and less things to go wrong

my 80 gl doesn't feel spongy at all, at least it didn't before i put a napa brake caliper on it.

thats not to unsual if you are flooring it it will stall the shift until higher rpms. i would change the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and see what happens.

i have used stant in my 90 legacy and my 80 gl they work good.

if it is leaking onto your exhaust manifolds it would be your valve cover gaskets more than likely. i would change those and see what happens and it wouldn't hurt to snug your oil pan bolts. they will work loose after a while i acctually stopped a leak on my gl buy snugging valve cover bolts. easy to do and doesn't cost anything

wow i feel dumb i didn't see that thanks

does anyone know where i can get an exhaust donut for a 90 legacy 2.2? my local auto parts store wants $20 for one and rock auto wants $24 just for shipping. any advice would be appreciated

could be :cool:

i think the hill holder system is mechanical they usually are.

yes, i reserched and my rear shocks are monroe i have a limited lifetime warranty through napa. i'm not sure if they would still have a warranty through rock auto or not though. my kyb struts are part #234028 gr2 gas replacement limited lifetime warranty i spent $220 for the set. i had to buy mounting kits and boot kits also for the tune of $106 from rockauto but, defiantly worth it now i can safely drive this car once i install these parts. that looks like the same kit i got. the problem i had was i thought i bought a rebuild kit for my 80 but it ended up being a repair kit for a newer model but the parts were the same and they worked, i got mine from rock auto though. i know i went into napa and they had an actual rebuild kit for $35.

finished putting my shocks in and put my carb back in i had to just repair it because i got the wrong kit. with as much improvement as i got with just new rear shocks i can't wait to see what kind of improvement new struts will make. carb is working way better thinking of either putting an ea82 carb on or just getting a weber, either way it is going to have to wait for a while. i will be getting my mounting and boot kits on Tuesday or Wednesday and have my struts installed by Friday hopefully. i can hardly wait until i get this fixed i want to go offroading with it when it is