mikaleda

i definatly will i just got my shocks in today and got my repaird carb back in and it is working good for now i think i will wait to mess with it till later and i might just do a weber swap. thanks for the help much appreciated

your problem is you switched to synthetic, penzoil has alot of perifin in it wich makes sludge. when you put synthetic in it cleaned the sludge out makeing your gaskets leak. try snugging your oil pan and valve cover bolts and if that doesn't work replace your gaskets oh and don't waste your money on stop leak it rarely works. i don't really see the point in using synthetic it does last longer without breaking down but the problem is you still have to change your oil every 3000 miles even with synthetic because your oil filter will still get clogged. i have a legacy with 210k on it and i put 5w-30 in it and it didn't use any oil at all its pretty rare to see a subaru that burns oil.

it probably depends on year of the ea71 engine and the year of the ea81 carb

hmm i will have to look into that. i was able to take some of the parts out of my rebuild kit and do a repair on my old carb. but i will look at the carbs i have and see if it is worth while to do a swap. if they bolt right on i might just do that for a cheap horsepower upgrade untill i can get a weber.

i was afraid off that, but i might be able to make an adapter plate. i might just do that instead of rebuild. i just relized that i ordered rebuild kit for wrong carb, so i am going to have to do something different.

:cool: thanks for the info

can you put a ea81 carb on a ea71? i have an 80 ea71 and i have some good ea81 carbs sitting on a shelf, could i use one of those for a while untill i can rebuild my original carb? if so what kind of problems am i going to run into? i know some of you will say to replace with a weber but i don't have the money to do that, i just spent close to $400 on my suspension.

sweet where would i get a factory service manual?

here are some more pics the original hatch shocks still work kinda and the piece of galvie tin in the back is to patch the rot in my floor board i even found some of the original tools this is the first car i have ever seen that the rear windows roll all the way down

Nice i like the 85 brats those are neat little subies i haven't had a chance to look at the damage on my rear brakes yet, but i probably will convert to disc eventually. i got a hygrade rebuild kit from rockauto it was $17 total with shipping and everything . just ordered mounting kit and boots for my struts today and just got the new bolts for my shocks yesterday. i can hardly wait until i get all the new suspension parts in and the rebuilt carb in and see what this car can do. when i do get this running i will make sure to get some pics on some trails up here

yes i have figured out trans it is just a single range. the cyclops light i have not messed with it since i just spent close to $400 bucks on monroe shocks and kyb struts when i am done with that it should handle way better after the suspension blues i am hoping to get the rebuild kit for my carb today and start working on that :cool: after that i am going to start patching up the drivers side floor board and then it will be on to rear brakes:brow: i will try and get some more pics of it with new struts and shocks

try adjusting first if that doesn't fix it than replace with one from a junk yard its like ten bucks. don't buy one new they are over $300 i just priced one. idle problems are usually oxygen sensors from my experience but it wouldn't hurt to try and adjust your tps.

my 80 gl station wagon 4wd done already. new c.v., new hub, manual choke conversion, new radiator, flushed coolant system, rebuilt oil pump, wiring, oil change, full tune up, new thermostat,and new front brake caliper. currently working on. front struts, rear shocks, rebuilding hitachi, new rack and pinion, and patching the hole in the floor board. in the near future. new oil pan and valve cover gaskets, new rear and front brake pads, and flush the oil system hopefully that is all so i can start saving money to fix my legacy this dang car is breaking me oh and new kyb gas struts

or you could do like i said earlier and test it. the chiltons is right on vaules on the ohm meter you just have to figure out where their telling you to connect your leads. the knock sensor is easy just connect the positive lead to the sensor and the negative lead to a good ground it should be 560K ohms i think i don't remember.

oxygen sensor

oh well one can always hope

you have to have a reader for obdII the one you linked to is a bluetooth reader i am not familiar with those it looks like it might be a two part reader but i'm not sure. you can usually go down to autozone and they will hook you up with one for your car for fairly cheap... usually. or there are ways of checking your tps and knock sensor with a multi meter simple and easy but i wouldn't trust chiltons. i did this on my moms 90 legacy and the book was totally wrong.

first thing i would check would be choke and fuel air mixture i just saw a thread in here that gave detailed instructions on how to tune you'r weber try that first.

flush your oil system? if you are sure it is only that one lifter it might just be clogged. oh and not to be rude or anything this should be in the new gen forum you will get better help if you post over there

i'm not that worried about it i just thought it would be nice to have low range.

sounds like tps sensor to me you can pull one out of a junk yard for like $10. i did this on my moms 90 legacy i just cleaned the corrosion off before i put it on and it worked great its still working actually.

sounds like the coolant temp sensor that is common problem on all makes of SPFI. my dads s10 blazer did this we were going to buy a $120 egr but the guy at napa said to try the coolant temp sensor and it fixed it. i think what happens is the temp sensor malfunctions and gives the computer the a warmed up temp so its not adjusting the amount of fuel to give it. there is no choke on a spfi it just gives more gas

my moms car wich i mentioned earlier was a 1600 but it had close to 400k miles on it so it could definatly have had a different transmission what i don't get is if it is a single speed why doesn't the shifter go all the way down? is it possible that it has a dual speed but someone hooked up the linkage incorrectly? is that even possible? this car only has 130k on it so it is more than likely the original transmission and i don't mind to much that it is a single speed transmission. it does good in high gear i was going through a swamped out driveway with it the other day and i didn't really need low gear to get around (not like my sameri it seemed like i had that in four low constantly:lol: ).

it has one click but the leaver doesn't go all the way down when disengaged i noticed. here's a pic of my setup in two wheel drive it doesn't ever go any lower than that. one click up its in four wheel drive and i have tried pulling it farther but it won't go and i don't want to force it.

my step dad got a car that had this problem. we took out the passenger door lock and took it to the locksmith and had a key made for it. fixed it good as new and it only cost $20 since we pulled the lock ourselves.