mikaleda
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Everything posted by mikaleda
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With the amount of miles on the engine the likelyhood of the heads being bad is fairly unlikely IMHO -
That sounds like a pcv issue to me, clean up your pcv piping really good and male sure your valve is clean.
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97 has a 4eat, no vaccumm modulator.
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The smoke is coming out of the tail pipe right? Most of the time when I see one of these smoking its leaking oil onto the exhaust and burning off. Pull your plugs and look for gray build up on the plugs that should tell you a lot right there.
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I believe all 90's Subaru's had the same starter. The only difference was between the auto and Manuel starters. Also most of the older 90's had gear reduction starters with a rebuildable cylinoid, these have very identifiable sound and are my favorites for reliability.
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+1 to what porcupine73 said. Also make sure they are using OEM only head gaskets and water pump, and thermostat. Even with that taken into consideration the price is way to high.
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$4600 for a headgasket job is ridiculous. Even though the ej25D (which is the motor you have) is notorious for head gasket failure, I don't think your problem is the head gasket. I suggest you have another shop check it out
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Search bleeding procedure and research
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I don't think your going to get any more reliable than an ej22 interference or not. As long as you take care of the timing belt like you should an interference motor is no big deal. I think an ej251 with updated gaskets can be a reliable motor as well, still I don't think as reliable as an old ej22 though.
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True, I am a first gen enthusiest, probably why I'm familure with the problems these cars have. From experience the most common issues on a first gen ej motor is Knock sensors #3 injector failure (technically any injector #3 is most common one to fail in my experience.) And maf sensor issues
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How is it rare for a first gen 2.2 to have injector failure. I've had several fail on me, the later models are much better than the early gray top injectors. I usually swap in the red top injectors out of the later models.
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they pop right off with one bolt usually, Unless their really rusty.
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I've always changed my oil when it starts to get dark and once it goes down a quart. You are correct, you can't always go by the color, my grizzly turns the oil black imediatly. On those type of applications I go by how much oil I loose, once it gets to the add mark I change it.
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I don't know about what the above mentioned artical, but I think that any car should have its coolant replaced at proper intervals. The newer antifreeze typically lasts up to 5 years and 100,000 miles. Main thing to do is change your oil depending on how you use your car. I burn through cheap oil within 2000 miles the way I drive so I typically use better quality oil so I can go 3000 miles before the oil turns black. Bottom line, when your changing your oil, check all of your fluids and change/flush them if they are dark or looking old. When topping off your antifreeze generally if its the same color as what is in your system allready than your typically OK.
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Makes sense, two most common failures on these cars. Go on eBay and buy a cheap knock sensor, should be about $10-$15. Get a used set of injectors, take the rail and all and swap them out for yours. The red topped injectors on the newer subies seem to work better than the old gray tops.
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I think I have read threads on this where people have problems with camber adjustment with the extra 1" lift. I beleive they had to use different camber bolts. I'm sure someone that knows more will chime in soon.
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Ya, buy a used one from the junkyard and clean it up with MAF cleaner only.
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Well your relying in a badly overheated motor that the same guy that couldn't adjust a TPS put head gaskets in. I would swap another long block in personally since who knows how well the block was decked and the heads resurfaced. What kind of gaskets did he put in and so on so forth. If they had the rest of the motor so back rump roast wards how well did they do the tourque sequence and once you get it going how long is the shody head gasket work going to last. I would find anothe ej22 and swap it in personally just for the peace of mind.
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I doubt the fuel pump is at fault. One of the fuel monitoring sensors is messing up and it sounds like a temp sensor. Its acting as if the choke is stuck on, so that would be the coolant temp sensor for the ecu, the two pronged one.
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I beleive 96 outbacks all had rear charcoal canisters. I've seen two of them with charcoal canisters In the back. Could be the difference of the 2.5
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So the 97 has the charcoal canister in the back by the tank and the 95 has the charcoal cansiter under the hood if I understand you correctly. It sounds like you need a 95 2.2 intake to match the car. I think 96+ all had rear charcoal canisters.
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Sounds like they checked everything else out.
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Yes seafoam down the intake could knock carbon of off a valve and cure a missfire. I've done it before, could use water as well.
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Might be some carbon built up on a valve, could do seafoam cleaning.
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Jack it up and check every thing for looseness sloppiness. It sounds like the inner CV joint is where your issue is, but its hard to tell just from a description. Grab onto the CV with the front wheels off the ground and see if you can feel any play from the CV Axel, check both ends. Try spinning your tire and see if it makes any noise.
