mikaleda

i was thinking of trying what gd and ivans said and put 120 psi in each cylinder at tdc and look for bubbles in the radiator. i have the tools to do this myself

i would defiantly contact moog

i'll take you'r word for it, i just don't see what makes these engines differ from any other engine i have worked on, all the way from a '67 chevy to a 98 toyota it has been the same. on a different note though i have to say i have never done a head gasket on one of these engines so i would not know. i will be interested in the out come though because i am going to be doing a hg on my 90 soon and it would be nice to know this info. i know i thought i had my coolant prob fixed untill 300 miles later and it started happening again

well to anyone still looking at this thread around 300 miles after i changed the radiator i decided to take my car for a road trip. it over heated 60 miles from home in the exact same place as before and it is acting exactly like it was before. just before i over heat my heater quits working. i have a new radiator and thermostat so it is probably the head gasket i am going to test it asap but it is going to get parked for now. man this is really frustrating it is an oem thermostat.

it is still part of the procedure there is a reason for it.

check online for used tow dollys, that would be a less expensive fix. that is what i would do.

with a good accurate torque wrench i don't see what it could hurt to re-torque the heads. one time on a mazda truck one of my neighbors had, started spraying water everywhere i went over and took a look at it i couldn't find anything. later on he had a mechanic look at it, they re-torqued the head and no more problems since. i know these subaru motors have weird things that can be wrong with them, but sometimes they can have normal things wrong with them to.

that's a good idea i like it. fortunately when i inspected the car better it turned out that the rotors are almost wore through and are warping causing the vibration and squeak. easy fix i can do that in a half an hour if it ever quits raining

have you re torqued since you did the head gasket? i have seen these engines over heated on a couple different occasions and never seen steam come out of the oil fill tube, something doesn't sound right about that.

before you get a dolly and tow it you might want to make sure its front wheel drive. i know i have a 90 subaru legacy all wheel drive and the symbol for all wheel drive looks a lot like fwd.

why did you change the head gaskets on the engine? where they blown or did you just want to do them because it was already out of car?

i haven't got around to plugging this yet but i found out why it failed. the reason it failed is because this car was sitting for about three years and something was nesting in the muffler. when i fixed the oil seal and fired it up i revved up the engine and it blew out a bunch of insulation now it works fine! when i replace the ball joints i will plug these off.

nice i like that idea!

have you checked you rear diff? it sounds like the all wheel drive is having a problem.

i will thanks i kind of figured as much i just wanted to make sure. what kind of emissions components can be removed when you have a Weber? if i can clean this engine up a bit i would like to, its a mess under the hood.

cool i thought that so, i did see that metal pipe you are talking about. i will do like you said and weld it shut.

i moved it to get a better pic. so yes it did melt on its own

it sounds like it that is where they are on the ea81 and ej22

can you see it now? if not here is a direct link http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/vv218/mikaleda/picture0002.jpg that's the best i can do for right now

oh that explains alot. i probably didn't do it right i really don't know what i'm doing i'm new to this. i'll look up how to insert pics and re post sorry about that.

test your cam and crank sensors. you can do that with a multi meter but if your using a chiltons total car care manual that is not fun. i did this on a 90 once and they give you the correct voltages and ohms but they don't tell you the correct prongs to test. i have seen the correct procedure in the repair forum the manual i had went from 85 to 96

yes i saw that and i don't have basic things like a good vice or shop where i can do this lol. i work in mother natures outdoor garage kinda sucks because we have a big rump roast garage but it got turned into something else. i like the idea of a used knuckle with a good bearing, i know where i can get one too same year and make poor thing got rolled.

yes i am just wondering what that is in the pic. i tried to describe where i found it, does that help? if not i will try to describe it better later. this is kind of secondary because at the moment i am replacing the front oil seal so i can't run it because it sprays oil every where and as far as i can see it has no use with the weber carb. also i will try to get a better pic of it all i had was my phone (i am working on it for a neighbor), i will try to get back over where it is at and get a better pic. with my camera. i will also add perspective

removing the charcoal canister will decrease your mileage, and as for the cats leave them in just gut them. as for the rest i don't know that is just what i have seen on the cars with the weber upgarde.

this engine has the weber carb update. when i started the engine it started smoking really bad and i found this melting. what i want to know is what the heck is this and why when i traced it it was connected to the exaust? it looks factory but because of the weber upgrade i don't have reference. i have another car i can get parts off of to fix same engine just with stock carb. this part was on the back part of the drivers side of the engine it looks like there is a similar one on the other side of the engine to. oh ya also they have put lawn mower muffler stuffed with something for air cleaners i think that may have been part of the problem http://i685.photobucket.com/albums/v...icture0002.jpg