mikaleda

i am here again. this is my moms car it just hit 311k last month and we have replaced three of the wheal bearings now it sounds like the fourth one is going out! les schwab wants $220 to do one wheal bearing we had the other three replaced there. what i am wondering is how hard is it to do one of these? this particular one is the driver side front bearing. does anyone know what kind of tools i might need and/or have tips to make it easier? part of the reason i want to do this myself is i have the same year and model car as she does that has 211k on it so i know sometime in the future i will probably have to do this on my car. as always any tips, tricks, or opinions would be appreciated.

i'm going to try locking the flywheel first. i'm using a 3/4 inch drive ratchet on it the handle is about 2 feet long, i don't have to worry about the bolt being stuck lol

sweet thanks for the tip i will try this.

what is a good way to "lock the flywheel" without causing damage?

well i am working on this darn subaru brat. i finally have traced down the problem, it ended up being a front oil seal. my manual doesn't even say there is a front oil seal! my problem is the bolt that holds the pulley doesn't want to move. I have tried an impact gun on it, no results. i am wondering is it reverse threads or is it stuck? Also i need a way to hold the pulley from moving i don't have any specialty tools for this.

that sounds like the solenoid is going out, also check the connections on the starter.

do the wires that go to the cam positioning sensor have power? you might have accidentally broke them when you replaced the head gasket.

i had this problem just a couple days ago. you have to fill the radiator with the car NOT running it will take close to an hour for it to fill completly just keep adding coolant as it goes down take a look at my thread of problem (weird overheating problem) if you read the whole thing it will tell you how to fill the system with out air bubbles. you'r overheating problem was caused by an air bubble it shouldn't have affected you'r head gasket.

you are right you will probably be fine. I just personally have had alot of problems with this style pump before, mainly on GM cars though. i don't know about subaru but i have seen this happen alot, people get substandard fuel pumps and are constantly replacing them within a year or two.

a tune up might not be a bad idea if the seafoam and knock sensor doesn't fix it. The better the plugs and wires the better the fuel economy i always use beldin 7mm max life wires (napa lifetime) when i can its worth the extra money. oh and if all else fails check your catalytic converter it might be plugged.

i would be Leary of a pump that you had to splice wires on especially inside the gas tank! I have to agree with GD when it comes to electronics you do get what you pay for. I once bought a universal oxygen sensor that you had to splice your old plug onto, it never worked correctly.

i'm not worried about the clutch until the engine is running is what i meant. the car has been sitting for like five years.

cool i just need to get the engine up and running, i'm not sure what that will take but shouldn't be to much.

it was the radiator. it runs great now, i haven't taken it to far yet but i can tell by the little bit of driving i've done that it fixed the problem.

it was an air bubble i have replaced the radiator and thermostat. when i drained the system i only had a 1/2 gallon of water/antifreeze in it. when i drained the first time when i was going to flush the system it had less than that. i am pretty sure that it was the crack in the radiator leaking anti freeze and causing an air bubble that was causing me to overheat. when i refilled it the last time i didn't do it properly and that is why it over heated the last time i think. i am refilling the system now it has taken a gallon so far and i am letting it sit for a while before i put more in. i have the plug that you showed in the pic off. when it is full i will take it for a test drive and find out if this worked, i'm almost sure it will.

i am working on a 80's (i'm not sure of the year) subaru gl wagon. it has been sitting for a while because of front end damage that i have fixed. when i tried to disengage clutch to put into gear it wouldn't move. the cable is free and moves so i think it is just rusty and stuck from sitting for so long. does anyone know any tricks to getting the clutch unstuck? i would appreciate any suggestions that don't involve pulling the engine, I don't want to get that involved in this car. oh BTW it is a front wheel drive i'm not sure if that matters or not.

oh that is the valve that is stuck solid. that might explain alot of my problems i am having. i got a new radiator and am waiting for thermostat to come in at napa it will be here at two. if the weather cooperates i will have new radiator installed and new thermostat by the end of today. oh ya how much coolant should my system hold?

i am going to get a new radiator and thermostat. i figure i am going to do this anyway even if i do the head gasket. so i might as well do it first and make sure that is not the problem. tomorrow i am going to test the head gasket just to make sure before i do anything. so no matter what i am covered. thank everyone for you'r input it did help fell free to keep posting if you want i will post my results when i get it fixed.

my step dad has the same car 2.2l auto it has 220k on it and it runs great. 4000 seems like a bit much for the car but that had to be a pricey fix so that is probably why he is asking so much.

where is the bleeder plug? my manual didn't tell me anything about this.

i agree, i have found good deals at yard sales but, what i do is fix the old tools. i think they are made better and are a little nicer. most of the time with ratchets the grease is just old and sticky. If you clean it out and re grease they work good as new.

what i thought at first was they punctured the radiator when they hit the deer and put some silver seal in the radiator which clogged it. on the last trip i took with it after i flushed the system, the heater worked and when it started to over heat it would stop working like the thermostat was closing back up.

either way i am going to get a new radiator because it is leaking. if i'm going to spend time and money into a head gasket i wan't to make sure everything is right which means new thermostat and radiator as well. Thanks ivans for the tip on how to check the head gasket i will do that. does anyone have any idea which cylinder i should check first?

its still a good enough reason check the compression and find out.

thermostat. i agree i was planning on doing that, i have had that problem before. changing the radiator. I can find out if its the head gasket by checking the compression. i could spend $100 on a radiator and find out its the head gasket, or i could check the compression and find out for sure if its the head gasket or not.