RXJ

Wondering if this winter mix you guys talk about "settles" and you get worse milage on the last half of the tank.. I've been noticing the first half of my tank seems to get good milage, based on the needle position anyway....I know if I hit 150 miles traveled before the needle hits half tank mark I'm not doing too badly More often than not, lately, the second half of the tank is a dismal drop of needle and the milage calculation proves the total milage kinda sucked...

and i was beginning to think it was only me.. Haight...what type commuter are you getting those high miles with???

am currently running without tbelt covers...am going out right now to at least put my skid plate back on..heading to Vt....would have missed this thread...thanks for the bump louis vuitton

thanks all for chiming in....been trying to get a grip on my MPG issues / trying to pin my poor fuel economy on snow tires 93 loyale 5 speed ea82 I've yet to break 29.5 miles per gal during summer and those are highway miles Just checked recently after a 150 mile highway ride, and got 25.5 mpg....if the rest of that tank is finished off with around town driving, i'm get @ 22 mpg......some days i "feel" like i'm only getting 20 mpg watching the gas gauge..the gauge I think is getting wonky.... Some of the mpg posted here leave me envious and wondering what I can do, or what I did wrong....I know this has been hashed forever (prob)

Thanks M Would love to tour his place...sorry he has to move

How many miles per gallon do you lose due to your snow tires?? Just curious..there may be a thread..I didn't search

it's ironic that a simple cup holder thread started by peacewize has evolved into a gun issue... maybe someone already said that..I haven't read the whole thread.... I like my coffee cups with a big round bottom...

cmon now...reading comprehension...this man is obviously looking for the "lick of death" solution. Who can ever fix that?

wiggling regains rightful status as a bonfide trouble shooting technique

that was my point..I did un-plug it while it was running...the engine had been idling smoothly for a long time... she died immediately...maybe that's not supposed to happen..i dunno.....interesting that you were driving with yours unplugged....back to the drawing board for me... carry on :-)

The other day my car was idling fine after an extended warm up..and it normally does.. but I kept her running while looking around the engine...I started pulling things...when I pulled the plug for the MAF the car shut off immediately.... Normal?? I'm noticing also noticing low fuel economy..

well i finally uploaded some pics.. i did get pissed off and vented here a bit here....sorry.. :-) the one showing all kinds of quality in the boot department is an MRC that NAPA ordered for me $18.37 the MOOG, the original order thru ebay...yeah yeah i screwed myself $30 something.. in this pic, i finally got the boot on by slipping the shaft and rubber into a 36mm deep well socket then tapping the flat top of the MOOG. ...I can't tell you how pissed off I was when taking it out of the socket after four hours of fighting with the removal of the old stuff.....oh wait..I already did :-)

here's the general location of the fuse I'm about to question....follow the two black boxes and you'll see a smaller one hanging out there at the end edit: ( just to be more clear, that's the spare tire in the background fastened down where it's supposed to be under the hood) this one, 15amps with the nike swoosh...what is it?? while i'm posting pics, what's that straight slotted screw on the side of the TB?? (to the left of the IACV) I'm glad you got your situation under control jj421....like i said I too removed my AC compressor (and condenser) so if removing a fuse helps, i'm all ears... that said my engine is idling like a dream today after a warm up session, plus turning the manual throttle stop screw down a few turns..... was very interested in all the coolant temp sensor talk and determined this HAD to be my problem (also based on the following attached cut and paste from random internet searching).... anyway, i had her idling beautifully.....then decided to disconnect the CTS wires..once I did, the rpms moved upward to 1350 rpms (from 1000)....i reconnected and the rpms went down to 1000 and stayed or dropped slightly below...so i'm assuming my CTS is actually doing it's job or at least it's doing something .. sorry for the long post but here's some random info from internet today: this is a response to someone with an idle prob....came from one of those "Ask and get your answer sites"....I think this guy may have his fans confused but is most of what he's saying correct? Does the CTS affect all of which he states? "The simple solution will cost u about $20. Change out the Coolant temp sensor. Some people call them the master sensor,because they control so many things. Like the operation of your engine cooling fan, your on board computer takes readings off of this thing,and it not only controls your fan,but your FUEL. This little thing can cause all kinds of issues. Like over heating, running to rich or to lean. It can act like you have waterin your gas tank, or rotten varnish gas.it can drive you nuts. When you start hour motormin the morning this little sensor senses the temp ( of coarse) and tells the ECM the temp,in turn the ECM provides a richer fuel mixture when your car us cold.(modern choke if you will. The ECM also regulates how long the injector pulses are as well. As your engine warms up, this sensor tells the ECM, if it's working correctly,that the coolant is getting warmer as leans out your fuel mixture. This sensor can cause all kinds of havoc. Like it will start sometimes ok and at other times it won't or if it does it will be real heavy and want to die. Sometimes feathering the pedal will keep it alive but it will be stumbling to stay on and often die. Other times it will drive fine,then it will start bucking at all speeds,like it's loading up, or running to rich. This sensor can cause your engines fan not to come o. And cause overheating.it can also cause the fan to run when it shouldn't be. I had all of these problems,and rally thought that I hD some old gas a d it had started to varnish up everything, as my Subaru had sat for a couple of weeks while I changed out all of the wheel bearings.but after some detective work and a lot of reading I came to the conclusion that the culprit must be this sensor.I changed it out and now it runs great, and when I park it in the driveway and it reaches temp the driverside fan kicks on now. Can't remember the last time I heard it come on. Lol. The passenger side fan should come on when your AC is turned on, just so you know. And make sure when you put your filter cover and intake hose back on to get them on correctly, or you will get a resonating hum from hour air cleaner. The part is cheap, getting things out if the way to get to the sensor a little tuff, but it will I'm sure solve your problem. Good luck." And then there was this thread from here a while ago http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=89128 again, sorry for how long this is but maybe for a future searcher this could all help....of course I'm still hoping to solve my own issues here...I can't drive my car away in the morn cause it'll bog down and die....can't leave the car cause the rpms increase durng the warm-up...i need to be there to tap it down...once wamred up she's a dream.... carry on :-)

nice clean looking car

120 miles tonight driving her hard....never paid much attention before but this thread got me looking at the rpms....guess i've always been a high rpm shifter. my question is...after you guys have worked your car hard and have to stop, say like in a traffic jam as happened tonight...what's your resting/idle rpm like at that moment?.... with mine it appears that she down to 1500 to 1200 rpms....is this normal? i may have I missed this info in the thread..sorry if so

all's well, the new one went in easily...drawing a blank on the name for the moment but took pics comparing the Moog with boot to the new one with boot...what a difference in quality...my own mistake for not researching before pulling the trigger....buying on ebay saved me from driving around plus gas was being rationed at the time due to storm Sandy ... screwed myself in the end though and the initial $ didn't stay local..though I did correct that.. will post some pics for the hell of it later on...thanks for the info

heyyy...i thought that fuse had something to do with the 4wd..of course mine's only 15amp and says nothing on it about ac but is right next to the white canister... ..i too removed my AC compressor so i'm all ears..

Check out how Sears recently handled this: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/11/09/business/popular-wrench-fights-a-chinese-rival.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0 ... edited my post cause it appears Knipex is making these for Craftsman in Gemrany....sorry fo the slight derailment of the junkyard finds

...is the relief spring in the pump a candidate for stretching also?... just curious about the shim for one but not the others or stretching vs shimming

^^ I love you man :-)) well.. not in that kinda way

^^ thanks..yeah i released the sway bar as a first step...seems like a must.. I like your step of freeing the threaded shaft from the control arm right off the bat....mine would prob still need heat..perhaps not with a long enough lever though I have a new ball joint coming early this afternoon WITH boot already installed... sending my ebay purchase back to seller WITH the boot installed..it's tight as ****, not coming off.... now comes with four pre-stretched tears/rips just beneath the "underwire".....yeah i'm gonna complain, maybe get a refund...maybe.

I DID deal with a stuck ball joint..I spared you guys the details cause I was more pissed off at MOOG than re-living the previous struggle...... It took three hours of fighting before finally developing a leverage system that evetntually "popped" the ball housing and shaft out of the knuckle......that should have been the sigh of victory right there.....but NOOOOooooooo.....cause the ****** ball shaft was still seized, seemingly welded, to the the pivot arm......where this operation should have had me just popping that thing out with a blow on the bottom of the threaded shaft and then moving onto the 10 MINUTE replacement, I was now confronted with the next stage of ******struggle.... I beat, devised a push/puller, beat more...then finally put a heat torch on it...took a while but the heat freed it up along with some more tapping.....should have been the last of my struggle....this was now hour 4 To move onto a MOOG system and lose the battle was just adding insult to injury...it shouldn't have been like that...it didn't have to be...why the ****** don't they have their boots installed right out of the box??? sorry..I'm still venting.....heading down to the local automart now....

**wait a minute here I75...you say you took your boot off and greased it...are you saying your new moog ball joint came, out of the box, with the boot already assembled to the shaft/ball??....and you took it off and greased it? If this were the case today, boot already installed, there would prob be no further issues...then again, Ivan suggests there are more issues than just the fit of the boot...I no longer second guess Ivan. I respect your input, I75 but.... i'm still pissed

ok here it is 4 hours later...i'll spare you guys the agonizing details...lets just say i should've have gone for the torch much sooner... after getting the thing out it should be a sigh of relief to move forward NOT another fight.... IVAN was spot on....the rubber boot supplied by MOOG was not installed on the unit..ya know why CAUSE THEY DON'T ******* FIT!!!!! they're close to the right size but the stuctural wire inside the rubber is just too tight.... no way to push it on by hand, even with a little grease, but a 36 millimeter deep well socket was my light bulb moment...i put the boot over the new ball shaft, lined it up, dropped the whole thing in the deep well socket and tapped on the flat top of the new ball joint (no grease nipple on this)... it worked.... Nirvana...i took it out only to see four stretch tears in the boot.. after four **** hours of struggle get the old one out...i'm pissed pressingforward..thanks but spreading the knuckle was not much of an issue..she was surely seized and heat did the final trick...after much prying, pounding, tapping, chisle work, Ivan you are someone to listen to forever. I feel ripped off...of course they don't install their own boots to the units... ..not like i can get a new one today and it's almost big bird time... thanks for the warning and info again Ivan..

ivan, i may have to throw this one in if i ever get the old one out...will check the diameter of old one assuming getting it out going on hour # 2