RXJ

I'll work with ya here..but with a question. I know my fan works due to a by-pass test, but don't know if it ever comes on while driving or when the engine reaches temperature.....how does one know if this happens?

I meant to tell you to expect the clacking...mine lasted about 15 minutes.. wasn't happy to say the least....all's quiet and smooth now...I've read the same with others here...just saw the post about the ground but think you got that figured out and I'd have to look in the car to see what I did...too late.. report back...hope it works out

Just outta curiosity how does the new port compare to your old one? (as far as the casting or machining looks)

now, you did that on purpose carry on looking forward to the post with that thing purring

hey..i didn't throw my old pump away and just looked into the same port...i'm pretty sure that what you think is sheared off is just a rough cast or rough machining...mine looks extremely similar and I'm certain it's not a flaw.... There's similar casting differences in an oil return port on the block...even yours (pretty sure there's a pic back there) is different from the two others compared in a recent thread.. that said, you should prob change the water pump since you're there..and when will you want to be there again??

dude, your pics are nothing short of spectacular..seriously... It's obvious it's the water pump port, I'm just not yet familiar enough to pick up on the issue you wanted to point out....nothing to do with your pic's quality....I replaced my pump simply because I was there...well, that and 161,000 miles.. yes, def go for the new pump....how many miles on that engine anyway? sorry if I missed that in an earlier post.. keep pluggn away

^ I'm not even sure what we're looking at there, but I don't remember a new water being time consuming nor all that expensive...

yeah, I was gonna say your seals look good too but figured someone with a gazzillion more posts than I should chime in on that... I used your pics as a reference when asking myself..."wtf IS this hose I'm reattaching" .. good work...happy fourth..

Slow and deliberate is the way to go...no sense slammn things together in a rush if ya want it to work...right kids? Your pics are great

update, finland dude: I didn't find the old seal but did find a box in the car...guess I went to the local auto parts store and had them do a cross reference (my project has been going on a while...some parts came thru ebay/amazon). This box has numbers you might need, maybe not...it's def for that seal... I also have the EA82 (93 Loyale).. Picked this up at NAPA (i can hear the groaning:) NAPA is on the box but more importantly: Oil Seal SKF (the manufacturer...made in Taiwan) #7205 (also CR 19x38x8 hms4 R) So yes, you can prob go to your local auto parts....

I can't tell you the size since I'm pretty sure I threw the old one away..will double check... and yes my 93 Loyale tick of death has disappeared...was that seal the only reason?.. dunno... I did the mickey mouse ring and the other O ring, new filter, new oil. How long does that seal last? 100,000 miles?.. dunno...longer than you'll prob own the car Looks like a pretty particular seal, the depth being as important as the diameter...and you know (you prob do) that spring laying on the table is vital to the seal. Around here I can get parts off amazon.com or ebay and have them delivered within two days...I see you're in Finland so this could mean nothing .. dunno.. Good luck...hope someone chimes in regards to how swappable these seals are.. I'll look for the old one but chances are slim.. [side note..i apologize to Ivan..I didn't re-open my valve covers to stretch that oil pressure spring...if my tick comes back I'm def doing this]

Are you talking about anything like in these pics??

you getting rid of your Loyale??

great job.. Now when putting my engine back in I'll know what was taken off...cause non of that organized stuff was goin on..

..glad to hear that method works..thanks 987687..I'd go for it if engine was still in the car this begs the question..what did you (mikaleda) use to lock the flywheel to get your stuck crank pulley bolt off?

dude... "if your cheater bar is towards the drivers side and long enough to lay on the fender (or anything to stop it I guess)...turn the key for a quick burst of the starter and it'll free the bolt.." stop screwn around and try this.. I wanna see if it works

make note of that knoxuni.. why didn't i think of that?..

it's my understanding there's only 3 major seals to be done for a reseal of the pump same as in above pic... don't tap these in too deep, they want to be flush or you risk closing off ports.. there's a big O-ring here in front of the mickey mouse ring (not all that clear in the pic but you can't miss it when your pump is out as far as a parts list, don't know if I saved the #s...will post if found but someone here will know....check ebay, amazon, local auto store. *edit: .. just remembered ...you have to take your timing belts off...thus timing belt covers, thus fan pulley bolt, fan ("clutch" fan...am learning ************ here too).... so yeah, if doing this with the engine in, it's prob a pain in the rump roast.....leave the timing belt covers off after all is said and done and become part of the coverless cult...makes sense to me

I think this has been offered up here.....if your cheater bar is towards the drivers side and long enough to lay on the fender (or anything to stop it I guess)...turn the key for a quick burst of the starter and it'll free the bolt.. personally have never tried it but know what a stuck pulley bolt is like...

You also don't want to search...that said, I wish my kids (18 &20) were asking questions like this...are you really 17? It may have something to do with oil pressure... edit: did you change the mickey mouse seals?

..haven't done this yet, Ivan...am working at a snail's pace...using a motorcycle rain/shine, loving the 50 mpg gas mileage....my suby ticking would disappear on it's own, off and on...I figure there won't be any by the time this engine is put back in. Did all the seals on the pump...BTW, Should I be stretching the spring of the pumps regulator??...makes sense or fuzzy?...that spring actually seemed pretty damn strong when I had it out....the missing parts that blew out when shooting compressed air in? oh well...i think it was actually was one small washer protecting the ends off the spring. FWIW... I ruined a brand new real main crank seal last night trying to install by tapping around the perimeter...went in too deep (way deep)on one side and there was no sucking it out...seconds after ripping it out I found a roll of duct tape that has the same inside diameter required to tap in evenly all around... You're spelling's fine I-man...just keep throwing the occasional "periods" in there...many thanks for the info and help

ah..I'm a dolt...Ivan's description was spot on... the part that confused me (well...) was " you will see a tube with holes". To me, this thing looked like a solid copper rod crimped on both ends..... looked for perforations and couldn't see any...maybe they're on the hidden side. After my last post I slapped myself and said, "why not look at the exploded diagram in the Chiltons book to see what I-man is talking about", assuming they might have one...they do and it verified everything he said(cept the holes...not sure about that yet..are they pin holes to let oil escape?) ... hardly ever look at a manual, relying on the info that gets passed on around here.. it helps though, having a balance... okay..guess I'll do the spring stretching...make sense to me HEy Ron..we're taking covers off...again...maybe :-)) ps..thanks grossgary

Keep working with me here, Ivan... Before this talk about springs that regulate oil pressure under the valve covers and 14 mm retainer bolts, I took this pic because I wanted someone to explain that horizontal bar (above the cam shaft). What is it? Is this anywhere close to what you were describing? If not, can you explain where in the pic we should be looking? I'm hoping Ron W. comes back after finding the right spot and with pics. I'm reluctant to remove my covers again after having gotten a really good seal with new rubber and new grommets....I know it sounds dumb and lazy....I'll do it if you can pinpoint what I'm looking for.. Thanks Ivan

I don't think the tick of death has been discussed.... listen...there's a thread on the main page right now, tick of death in the title, someone gave it five stars, it wanders around a lot and that Rick James is a pain in the rump roast.. you might learn something, though, re your oil pump, mystery springs and plungers etc etc.. if that thread doesn't do anything for you.... search. TOD can be solved, no worries..you got a good car edit: great ending for joshjosh the OP...good story

^^^^ I like this, understand it, and can see it working..thnks again Ivan..you could still use a little work on the use of the period..work with me here.. Ron W., Ivan would have said so if my pics had anything to do with his description. (this is a guess) If you're going to take your covers off to find this, please take a pic and post. many thanks RXJ