monstaru

Yeah, I should know better than to try an put expectations in place. But I MAY have a 4 day weekend. Two of those days for the Mama , and maybe I'll look at the truck lol

This is a conversation I had a while ago.... ME Sent 17 November 2013 - 07:23 PM I was the second to attempt it in the states.I made it run. I ended up having transmission issues and did not drive it. It is an early Escort, or EXP Disty. taken apart and had the shaft ground down to fit the end of an EJ cam. I took a Cam out of an engine, took the shaft out of the disty(bought new in the end, used a junkyard model to figure out the fit.So I actually ground down like 4 I think.Pretty sure I spent about 200 bucks getting it right. then I "fit " them together. Then I started test fitting on a head. As seen here http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/monstaru/new%20rig%20monstaru2/IMG_2027.jpg http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/monstaru/new%20rig%20monstaru2/IMG_2026.jpg You also have to modify the disty advance because of it wanting to hit the frame rail.(in an EA81) Unless you get the non advance model like shown. The electronics was super easy. I went to Ford and got a simple wiring harness diagram. The intake I bought from a plane builder in Canada. An older company named RAF used to produce them. I would just make one now. Scott casted a bolt on piece for an existing EJ intake. He said it worked fine, but I don't remembering see it run. So I don't know. I am sure he has a video on Youtube. cheers, maybe more to come....Just gotta remember it.. rrgrr Sent 20 November 2013 - 02:46 AM Thanks -I was looking at some right angle distys with similar drives - (like here: http://www.cardone.c...d=302492&p=rock) ...are the key ways in the cam ends different -is that what you were grinding on the distributor? Reply Report . monstaru Sent 20 November 2013 - 06:44 PM yeah, it is because of the keyway difference that it needs to be fitted. But it is very minor . It should be done with a hand file , or a mill. This one. AUTOLINE Part # D4069 from Rock auto. It is the easiest one to modify/locate used parts for. I did buy a brand new harness from the stealer ship but, It was not color coded. Just black and white. I had a color coded one I pulled from the junkyard once too. It is kind a straight forward really... monstaru Sent 20 November 2013 - 07:14 PM And actually I just realized that the Disty in the photo is like a later one I think. Maybe because it has the non adjustable advance. Is that an oxy moron? lol The one I ended up using had a vacuum unit that I modified to use with a wing nut. I have been looking for pics , but I have some random naming systems.LOL rrgrr Sent 20 November 2013 - 10:28 PM If the hood would clear it I'd be all over it -Doesn't seem that complicated if you can get the intake to mix right. I'd probly just cut a hole in the stock intake -I'd like to see the carb intake next to the fi one for comparison. How'd they fit that? Actually what this is about right now is farmyard type power plants for low tech types. Sent 21 November 2013 - 06:13 AM I just really liked carbs. And got told it was not possible. lol The RAF intake was made from the runners up. Here is my setup.I almost forgot about this. cheers rrgrr Sent 27 December 2013 - 09:21 AM Hey sorry I've been busy with other stuff. Thanks alot for all that! Do you know where to find the manifold, or would it just be easier to fab something up? Happy New Year! . monstaru Sent 27 December 2013 - 11:41 AM I would build my own if I were you. I bought mine off of a whirlybird website. damaged at that, one of the runners was dented and taken out of air service. Originally it was a 600 dollar piece. But if you can weld aluminum , it would not be that hard.(mine was steel).. The bottom of the runners is the goocher. As it turns oblong, not circular. rrgrr Sent 28 December 2013 - 06:59 AM Looks like they squished the ends and welded them to a plate, probably doctored them up from the other side? monstaru Sent 28 December 2013 - 11:47 AM They were not squished together. They were pressed with a custom interior die made the exact same shape.I inquired to the fabricator that built them for RAF. He also said they port matched the head to the runners when they installed them. Everything was machined and fabricated properly. Definitely not a backyard product. Not to say it could not be done with some ingenuity in your backyard. cheers rrgrr Sent 28 December 2013 - 03:05 PM Interesting. Maybe not a one-off piece, then a run of them was done, perhaps... I did a search but only came up with Royal Air Force -lol...kind of would like to see what they were flying with these motors, some kind of ultralight? monstaru Sent 28 December 2013 - 08:42 PM There was a small run of them done. The folks I was in touch with were using them on ultra lights, and other small "experimental"(this is actually a classification) aircraft.

WHO SAID ANYTHING ABOUT BEING FAIR? hE PROBABLY DIDNA LOOK! Anyways. IIRC, a hockey puck lift can only be done with a separate spring and shock. UNLESS, one put the puck on top of the strut. If that would have happened WE would have heard about it. If it just means stacking them under the spring by the threes , then your are only gaining about 1 inch of lift anyway... He MAY not have even looked at his struts! cheers. or not..

Seriously? hAVE you read anything on here?

So your saying that the slotted hole is not for adjustment? It is designed to set the motor to where the mounts are flat, is it not? I guess it really depends on if you have the transmission attached when you tighten it down or not . cheers

Loyale.

I got my Detroit sticker last night and my 6 puck clutch disc. I might have messed up on that one! LOL I should start assembling motor, and finish T-case this weekend sans Seahawk time. cheers

Brand new engine mounts without a transmission will sag forward. Yours were being pushed forward. There is a reason the original pitch stoppers had adjustment. I usually use a 3/4 inch piece of threaded rod, sleeved to the original firewall bushing. cheers

Degrees are degrees. What degree difference are your shims? Pretty sure there are solid axle shims that would match. It was a suggestion. Ya know . For people to try. I am saying that to be sure of such an answer , one must have tried all. HAve you? POst your findings then! I cant wait to hear them!

You don't need shims. But if you wanted to use them, you don't have to order them from Oz. Just go get some shims for a lifted solid axle rig and enlarge the hole.

WELL THEN< MOUNT THE BEATCH!!!! LOL can't wait to see this.....

yes .should be in retro. Open your mounting holes up to the outside a skosch, and put a pitchstopper in.

You think to much. Do more. It helps to answer questions you naturally have in process. Start taller so you can cut down and not waste steel. cheers

I know , I know. But good things take time. :)I am getting closer. cheers

Got some more stickers today. SORD sells a prebuilt tierod.It comes with FJ80 TRE's. They also sell disc brake brackets for the rear axles. Those are prettty sweet. I am still waiting for my Detroit sticker. I should get the flywheel tomorrow. The toggles should come next week , as well as the 6 puck sooperfrickshunfantastico disc. Just parts at this point.Still.... Still need a pressure plate that is gonna hold. I need to get a smaller drill bit tomorrow to continue work on the dash . I really wanna do the timing belt and such on the engine,and fix the mistake I made on the t-case tomorrow . We shall see .lol Cheers

Making a whole slew of get'erduns as we speak. First being a Detroit for the front.

I have rarely heard of a water pump failure on any Roo around. Especially EJ22. If you are into your car at all you will notice warning signs before any type of failure. I have installed both, had good luck with both. cheers

GOt HER DID!!!! lol

I actually thought about that in the design of the dash. I have them placed at an angle leaning towards the passengers. sO it SHOULD relief the glare quite a bit. If not , then I will do something different. I like the way the look right now RAW. So If I have to change something, I will just build a new dash. Or use duct tape. Spray paint does not last on license plates due to the coating. cheers

What can I say,It was the cheapest way I could get this done. lol

I have been working on my dash today. Made a template out of some Aluminum I salvaged . Then I started to cover it how I wanted. Then started working on fitting Then needed to start a bezel Gonna pick up some gauges here pretty quick. cheers

Not just you.

Double up the mounting point on the shocks. And yes, also known as single shear , double shear. The point of the matter is when mounting something in single shear ]- , as opposed to double shear ]-[ . the - being the bolt. The][ being the tabs that the bolt goes through. Follow? Now, nodes. \!/ /!\ The center of the asterisk is the node. All tubes terminate at the center. If it carried on through to the last point your good. Anywhere the nodes touch end up transferring the force of a collision to the other tubes allowing for true transference of the energy. If the tubes are not connected then the energy is not terminated and transfers into the next tube full force and it usually ends in failure. Follow? I don't really know anything .I just build stuff a lot. lol cheers

NICE!!

rigggggggght. just saying. lol